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Newbi needs tips on hanging and rigging a BF150

G

gepod

Contributing Member
Well I just purchased a 2007 BF 150 with 156 hrs for my Jones Brothers Cape Fisherman 20. I am excited to say the least. This is my second Honda BF,last was a 135 on my 1983 BW Outrage 18. Ive rigged other motors(suzuki Df140) but would like to know if there are any tips the pros have? Ill be using an engine hoist with chains. Wireing should be straight forward . What needs to be done before actually starting it? What would you recommend changing before using it? Fuel pump? Water pump?

Thanks.;)
 
It's the end of the season and everybody is busy with winter preps and last minute fishing runs. I had some thoughts for you but I was waiting for the "big boys" to jump in. Don't worry, someone will be with you soon.

In the meantime, I would just go with logic and say that engine position with proper cavitation plate and prop depth is the main concern with mounting up a replacement outboard. Since you've done this before, you probably know more than me about that.

As always, you will want to check, if not change, the oil and filter as well as the gear case lube. The same goes for the fuel system. I would want to know EXACTLY what the inside of the VST looks like and that the water separator filter is fresh and the fuel lines are free of water.

And I would pull the plugs and check their condition and do a compression check. Actually I would have done that before purchase but I know that if you're getting a "killer" deal, you just want to buy and get the hay out of there with your new motor.

If possible, set the lower end into a tank of water and observe if any oil leaks out of the gearcase. If so, you will want to address that before using the outboard.

open the hood and inspect the crankcase vent and for possible critter nests if the motor has been laid up for a while. Same goes for the air intake muffler duct, and electronic control cover. You don't need to digest a wasp or bird nest on initial crank up.

You can use a small mirror to gain a vantage in there without pulling major assemblies off.

Mouse turds are also a tip off to check for chewed up paper or cloth and chewed wiring under the hood that could start a fire or a short. Mice can get into some tight places when they want to.

Pump up the "low pressure" side of the fuel system and check for any weeping fuel line connections or outright leaks.


This is an internally balanced engine with chain and sprocket cam timing. The chains stretch and the chain guides and tensioners wear as the engine is used but with only 156 hours, I would not suspect any of that to be an issue.

This outboard does have numerous water hoses and I would carefully check the routing of those for any chafing or rubbing that could cause a hose to fail. Also, check for any rust on the hose clamps as being a sign of a leak.

Hopefully others with actual experience with this outboard will respond. I hope you enjoy owning your new to you Honda.
 
Great advice from Jimmy. I don't own a 150, but do own a 225, and there are a lot of similarities. You can download an owners manual at http://marine.honda.com/owners . Also, on that same site you can find any recalls or other issues with that engine. You might also want to search the web for any service bulletins. They're hard to find unless Hondadude checks in. He can get access. This forum is a great source of information about that engine. Search the archives. At 156 hours, that engine is hardly even broken in. The 150 has a reputation of being a real solid workhorse. Here are a few other things to do...

When mounting, make sure that the exhaust ports are at least 5.9 inches above the waterline. If you are mounting directly onto the transom, the anti-ventilation plate should be even with the lowest point on the hull. If you are using a motor extension, then it should be one inch above the lowest point on the hull for each foot of offset from the transom.

You may need to fool with different props. Ideally you want the engine to run at nearly 6000 rpm's at WOT. If you are planning on doing a lot of trolling or low speed putzing around, and little WOT, regularly use a decarbonizer in your fuel, like Sea Foam, or plan to decarbon the engine every year or so.

Follow the maintenance schedule religiously.

Although the maintenance schedule calls for changing the plugs every 400 hours, at every 100 hour maintenance, pull the plugs and grease the threads. If you wait the 400 hours, the plugs tend to lock into the head and can cause nasty problems. Also, I think the service manual calls for changing the oil filter every 200 hours. I think it's best to change the filter every time you change the oil.

Learn how to drain the VST and do so at every 100-hour maintenance interval.

If it's not already rigged in, install a Racor 10 micron fuel/water seperator in your fuel line and drain it at every 100 hour maintenance.
 
Thanks again for the solid advice. What are your feelings with using a 2 micron racor. Only say this because Ive had major issues with the e-10 in previous motors,clogging injectors,vst filters,etc. Not sure of the exact Racor part # but I believe many outboard owners are using the 2 micron without issues.
 
also,what is the general consus using the automotive equivalent oil filters? automotive full synthetic oil?

any internal zincs I should inspect? replace? thermostats?

thanks again ,
Jerry
 
I have no experience with the 2 micron Racors. The 10 micron ones seem to do fine on my engine. Have yet to see any significant amounts of water make it to the onboard fuel/water separator or the VST after 1400 hours.
 
Actually, I have found that the NAPA "GOLD" equivalent oil filter does a better job of keeping the oil cleaner than the OEM Honda filters. On my engine, the Honda filter 15400-PLM-A01PE is replaced by the NAPA 1356 Gold.

Personal opinion is that the synthetic oil is a waste of money. If you change the oil every 100 hours or every season, whichever comes first, the standard marine grade 10W-30 (SG or higher) is fine.

Not sure about your 150. On my 225 there are internal anodes in the manifolds. One of the very stupid things Honda did was require the removal of the manifolds to replace the anodes. Any normal designer would design them as external bolt-in's. But, yes, they should be checked and cleaned seasonally, especially if you are operating in saltwater. Replace when they have lost 40% of their weight.

As a matter of preventative maintenance, I change out my t-stats every 400 hours. I think there are two in the 150, and if I recall correctly, they different. So you need to make sure they are correctly matched. Someone who works on the 150's needs to jump in on that one.
 
I agree with all the above.

If you do not know when your water pump was replaced, you should probably at least install an impeller kit.

Pull the thermostats (on the top of the motor) and make sure they are not impacted with salt and/or debris.
They are two different thermostats, so do not get them mixed up.

Make sure your throttle/ shift cables are in good shape. Do not wire tie them close to where they come out of the engine or go into the shifter. Shifting and throttling will be much smoother the looser they are.

One other thing, that I tend to forget. Before you hook all the cables and wiring to the motor, feed them through the front cover...part #6 http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard%20Engine/2005/BF150A5%20LA%20/LOWER%20COVER/parts.html Otherwise, you have to disconnect everything and reconnect again.

The 150 is a solid motor that has very few issues around here. Without checking....the only issue that may affect your unit may be corrosion around the chain case. Most of the other issues occurred and were corrected before 2007.

Mike
 
chawk_man said:
I have no experience with the 2 micron Racors. The 10 micron ones seem to do fine on my engine. Have yet to see any significant amounts of water make it to the onboard fuel/water separator or the VST after 1400 hours.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the replies.
After looking at the manual, I cant find how to access the VST filter?? Also Ive found the fuel filter and water separator assembly,the fuel filter has an element I can change but the separator dosent, it has a buffer plate? Is it necessary to change it @ $33?

cheers,
Jerry:cool:
 
It is #39 http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard%20Engine/2007%20and%20Later/BF150AK0%20LA%20/VAPOR%20SEPARATOR%20ASSY./parts.html

The picture is of the rear view of the vapor separator, so if you remove the port cowling of the motor, the filter is located on the forward side of the vapor separator.

I do not know why they make these so hard to get to. The new 90 have its above the cowling and takes about two minutes (even after dropping and searching for the screws) to do.

If the motor is new to you and you do not know the last time it was changed, you should do it. That way you can also see what part of the inside of the vst is looking like. It is a good time to flush it too.

Mike
 
Well I just ordered the thermostats,fuel filter,vst filter,filter inside the fuel pump and an impeller kit. I went to put new oil in the motor and there was still some residual oil in the sump,as it came out it was the color of caramel(best way I can describe it)not sure if its normal. The t-stats were pretty coroded with deposits also. Lower unit oil was clear. Im a bit concerned ,I didnt think a 156 hr motor would look like this? I have pics but cant figure out how to post them??
 
I think the files are too big. My dilemma is as follows,I bought the motor trusting a"friend" saying it was well taken care of and worth the money. It is very clean. I have finally gotten around to hanging it and running the rigging(not completely finished) but the motor can now be started and ran on ears. Only issue is Ill be starting it then basically winterizing it. Should I replace all the above mentioned filters,t-stats,impeller before winterizing it for winter storage or start it ,winterize it and replace everything in the spring?? I would like to run it and check out how it runs etc..

thanks
 
Re to color of the oil. Most likely, the motor has been sitting a lot and the oil may have just deteriorated. It sounds like you have flushed it out with some fresh. Go ahead and put new oil in and run it for a while and check. Most likely, you will be ok.

Ideally, you should change the impeller in the spring, so it is not just sitting there all winter. On the other hand, if you do all the changing now, it will be ready to go in the spring. Sometimes knowing everything is ready to go...is peace of mind and will give you something to be excited about all winter.

Mike
 
Thanks,I kinda figured, even if the previous owner didnt change it at the specified interval(most likely),the oil would still only have 156 hrs of use. Whats the best way to flush the water/cooling system? Salt away? Are there any hoses/connections aside from the t-stats to clean out?

thanks again!
 
Quick update. I finally getting around to trying to winterize the Honda I bought. Its a mess here after Sandy! Then 6 inches of snow a week later. Im having trouble getting it started? Not sure why,do you have any advice? I hooked it up to a battery, the starter or the solneoid spun(didnt crank the motor) then I tried the trim switch on the side of the motor,it trimed up about 2 inches then stopped?? Then nothing when I turn the key,nothing at the trim switch? I have juice to the starter(13v), when I jump it with a screwdriver it only spins the solenoid dosent crank the motor? But nothing at the gauges,trim ,no diagnostic beep when I turn the key.What should I do? I have the shop manual and will start to follow the troubleshooting for starting. Any advice would help.thanks,
Jerr
 
Also when I went to pull/check the plugs,I could only get 2 out because the rubber/foam like piece on the end of the sparkplug boot was stuck way down inside the hole around the sparkplug.I guess the glue gave and its now stuck to the sparkplug! I couldnt get anything in there to grab it and pull it off? again any help would be appreciated.
thanks again.
Jerry
 
Sorry to hear the Sandy has messed you up. Hopefully, your motor problems are the only ones she gave you.

Sounds like you probably have corroded, loose or dirty connections in the battery cable area. Pull all the fuses on the motor and make sure those contacts are clean too.

I know you said you got voltage at the starter post, but I bet it was not 12v when you tried to crank it or pushed the trim button on the engine.

Since essentially nothing was working, you have something wrong that is common to all...that is why I said what I said above.

Mike
 
Thanks Mike,Ill check the resistence of the battery cables also. Should have done that ,not thinking straight.
Jerry
 
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