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BF90 Power Tilt question... everything else works but PT (it worked last week)

sobie2

Member
I have been making my BF90 parts engine and turned it into an operating motor. Here is my latest:

Today I actually got the motor running!

Now the problem is I replaced the old bad power tilt relay with a working unit a few weeks ago (and the tilt function operated and sounded strong), but today I was able to start the motor (and the starter sounded great and not sluggish), but the power tilt and trim from either button did not work. I could hear the relay quietly click but it wouldn't operate the ram. I have checked all the connections and all are clean and tight.

I see in the manual that when testing that "Note: be sure the battery is in good condition before performing this test" which I haven't done (I am at work :)

Is it possible to have a poor battery (ie needs a charging) and yet have everything function well except for the power tilt?

I have all new fuses, new battery cable (1 year old battery) new wiring, electronics etc.


ALSO I am not getting any lights on the brand new tiller handle to light up. (I thought the green would always be on).

Sobie2
 
Easy one first...the green light should come on when the motor is running and there is good oil pressure. The red light should light if there is an overheat.

Easiest way to see if your trim relays passing voltage to the motor is to follow the wire from the trim motor to the connector on the engine. Normally, they are round. Pull it apart and connect a test light or volt meter to the two contacts in the connector. When you operate the trim switch, either way, the test light should light. If you are using a volt meter, you should get 12v when you operate the trim switch. The polarity will change when you trim in the opposite direction.

If you are getting voltage, you may have a motor problem or you may have a connection problem.

To check the motor, you can run 12v directly to the connector. Make sure that the leads are pretty good size to handle the current. When you actually connect the voltage, you will only need to do it for a couple of seconds to make sure the motor runs. There may be some sparks, so be careful. If the motor does not run, check the wiring down to the motor for any opens. If you can not find anything there, then the motor is bad.

At least it is a place to start.

If you need a wiring diagram, the pages at the end of the owner's manual is the wiring diagram. http://marine.honda.com/pdf/manuals/31ZW0607.pdf

Mike

Mike
 
Thanks Mike,

The service manual makes checking things more complex than your descriptions. I happen to have a spare switch, and a motor to swap out. I put the battery on to charge and it did need to be charged, but the problem still persisted. I will test as you suggest. Also thanks to clue me into the green light. I have only had the motor on for a brief moment so I didn't look for the light. I thought it came on when I turned the key to the run position.

I will report back on the lift motor.

Thanks,
Sobie2
 
Yep that is what I did. I took my test light and tried the 2P plug and using the switch the light went on. So I tried hooking up my spare motor and that functioned just fine. The plug on my lift motor that is on the engine looked a little dirty but it worked recently. But that whole thing took a swim.

I opened the valve and tried to tilt the engine up to access the lift motor to swap it out but I couldn't manage to manually do it.... looks like I am going to have to unbolt the whole engine and use my excavator to lift the engine off the boat to swap lift motors. But hey if I do this, and test the motor and check to see if the green light is on when the engine is running I can finally go boating!

Sobie2
 
I assume that you were able to open the tilt valve.

Before you take it off, get a good strong rope and tie one end to your lower unit just above the prop and the other end to your excavator and let the excavator raise the motor. Be sure to close the valve when you get it up all the way and use the tilt lock for safety.

Just a thought.

Mike
 
I've used a come-a-long to accomplish the same thing.

BTW - The Honda tilt/trim motors tend to be very expensive. Equivalent API motors are much less expensive and appear to be exactly like the Honda ones. I had to replace the moter in my 225, could not find a Honda OEM motor, so used the API equivalent. Some require that you reverse the wires from the plug to the motor. Here is the table of equivalents.

Honda PNAPI
31200-HW1-6713070
31200-ZV5-0130 MOT5010N
31200-ZV6A-0130MOT5010N
31200-ZW1-004 MOT6000N
31200-ZW5-003 MOT6001N
31200-ZY3-003 MOT6002N
31210-ZA0-982 ST200ND
31210-ZE3-013 MOT18513
36120-ZV5-821PT302NM
36120-ZV5-822 PT656NM
36120-ZY3-013PT607 NM
 
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