2002 25bfa choke problem?

I had hard starting and running problems as this motor has been stored in a greenhouse with Stabil run through it but the carbs not drained.
I ran carb cleaner through it and then a cam of sea foam at about a 4 to 1 ratio. I adjusted the idle screw in 2.5 turns and now it runs pretty well
and idles. At warm it starts immediately at idle and holds for as long as I run it. The problem is increasing RPM's. As I bring up the fast/choke
lever the vertical choke arm comes down, sending in a rich fuel mixture that bogs the engine as I increase. When I let off on the lever about .5",
the choke lever goes back up and the engine increases rpm's slightly and smooths out. Could this be a problem with the celonoid that the choke
arm comes out of? If anybody has any thoughts I would appreciate your help. Thanks.

Idle mixture initial setting is 2 3/4.

Make sure the throttle linkage is not interfering with the choke linkage on the engine. If you have had the throttle linkage off, you may have put it on the wrong side of the choke linkage.

Another thought...it sounds like you have a side mount box with the key switch in it. If the electric choke solenoid is actually being energized, then the cam or the switch inside the control box that operates the choke when you raise the lever all the way up are loose, jammed or no longer where they should be.

Or you are just raising the fast idle arm too far and just activating the choke (as it is supposed to).

Mike

Thanks Mike. Idle mixture setting 2 3/4. Linkage's are operating independently and not interfering with each other.
It is a side mount box with key and seems to be operating ok.
I bring up the fast idle arm slowly and halfway up the choke engages and stays until I back off.

I disconnected the Remote Choke solenoid and ohms tested that side. It showed 0 each time on x10.
Any idea what reading it should be?

Thanks

If the choke is engaging, that must mean that the choke solenoid is operating.

I do not know what the resistance should be...but it should not be zero. There should be a brown lead and a black lead coming from the solenoid.

The brown lead continues up to the control box. There is a switch inside the box that automatically puts 12v to the brown lead when the fast idle lever is raised high enough.

It almost sounds like all might be normal.

Just to check. Turn your key switch to on....do not start the motor.
Raise that fast idle lever up and you should get to a point when the choke activates. You will hear the clicking at the motor or even see it if you have a view. The lever normally gets almost to the shift handle. If that is what it is doing....all is well.

Mike

Mike, at high tide this evening I'll put her in for a sea trial.
I opened up the Remote Control box and followed the brown wire to the remote switch which is activated by the fast idle arm when it gets to 11/4 inches
from the shift handle. I can see the remote solenoid engage the choke arm on the engine at this point. Everything in the Control box appears secure
and in position.
At 23/4 turns on the idle screw from point of contact the engine runs fine at idle.

I'll let you know how the sea trial goes.
Thanks

Mike, tested her on the water last week, idled fine but would not power up. Dismantled the three carb assembly and brought them to the Honda dealer this morning. He called back and said there was green finish and flake on them and he couldn't guarantee they would work after an ultrasonic bath as he could not see inside the bowls. I went down to pick them up and they did have the green flake but didn't look as bad as I suspected. He said three new carbs completely assembled and balanced with a few of my parts would cost 500.00. I was wondering if i should try soaking them in carb cleaner and reassemble or when I get some cash, go the distance. If you have any thoughts that would be great.

Thanks, Rich

If he is going to put all new carbs and balance them on your engine for $500. That is a deal!

The carbs themselves retail for over $500 without any of the labor to change them and balance them;

If you are really serious about cleaning the carbs right, the cost to replace the float valves, idle jets, o ring set and other gaskets retail for almost $225 themselves. Then you still have to make sure that they are clean and them vacuum balance them. Labor at the dealership would probably be somewhere between another $300 - $450, depending on labor rate.

Be sure to completely disassemble each carburetor. Soaking them in carb cleaner is not good for the carburetor....the ultrasonic cleaner is the way to go. But...if you do soak them, you should still spray solvent through all the passages to assure that the flow is good and blow them out with compressed air.

Bottom line....you know what you can afford to do.

Mike

Thanks for the input Mike. I think I'll go the new carb route in the spring. The dealer is strictly Honda up here in Gloucester, Ma. with a good reputation.
They said it would be about $240.00 to ultrasonic and reassemble with no guarantee and were of the opinion the new carbs would be more cost efficient.
Thanks for your help.
Rich