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honda 225 blown fuse

garbo

New member
put boat in today started right up a minute later died no power ended up being 10 amp fuse on motor replaced and started up ran for almost 2 hours blew fuse again so i headed in and blew fuse 1 more time looked for corrision on fuse terminals did not see any, wondering if anyone knew what to check next thanks
 
Okay - Were you using the tilt trim when you blew the fuses previously? If so, try unplugging the tilt trim motor and see if it blows again. Remove the cover and trace the wire from the tilt/trim motor into the lower cowling. There will be a two-prong plug that you can likely access without removing the lower cowling. Unplug it there. If that fixes the problem, you have a sort in the tilt/trim motor plug or harness, the tilt/trim motor has failed internally, or you've lost the ground to the tilt trim motor. If I recall correctly, there should be a ground wire coming off the motor (or near the motor) to the engine frame.

Does the fuse blow with just the key turned on, but engine not running? If not, but then blows when you activate the tilt trim, then you have a dead short in the tilt/trim switch or the wire from the engine to the tilt trim switch.

I'm traveling, so don't have my shop manual. But that # 3 fuse also feeds all your gauges and tilt/trim switch on your control panel. Maybe Mike (HondaDude) will pick up on this thread and tell you the other connections you should check.

Several previous posts with similar problems found that corrosion in the wiring harness was the problem. This typically happens where the harness exits the engine and enters the transom. You may want to peel off the harness cover there and inspect wires for burning, corrosion, and/or chaffing.
 
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First place to check is the switch itself. Remove and inspect - it's a simple rocker switch that throws power from the center lead to up (blue wire) or down (green wire.) To test, bypass the switch, and throw power to each activation wire in turn (blue, then green.) If that works, without blowing fuse, then the switch is shorted internally. Not unusual. If that still blows the fuse, figure out which wire is causing it to blow, and trace that. You will likely find that it is shorted out somewhere in the harness or near the tilt trim motor itself.
 
the tilt switch on throttle was sticking and i thought that was problem got it to work right but still blows fuse weather i use switch on motor or throttle ,seems like when motor goes down it blows i checked ground seems okay I will check what you said in last reply
 
Darn! Wish I had the wiring diagram, I could probably help you out on this better. Tried to find one on the web, but no luck. Disconnect the switch at the helm, and see if the rocker switch on the motor still blows the fuse. If so, then I strongly suspect it's at the motor connector I described earlier.
 
it seems to be just when going down so probably the down rocker switch, i am not good with electrical so I will bring it to my mechanic on monday but i think we narrowed down the problem which will save me money thankyou for all your help. I will let you know the outcome
 
If you are up to it, disconnect the 14 pin round connector on the front of the engine that connects the main wiring harness to the engine. It is under the black plastic cover that is held on by a rubber piece on the port side of the engine.

Once that is disconnected, operate the trim switch on the engine and see if the fuse blows.

If the fuse blows, then the trouble is on the engine. If it does not, then the trouble is forward of the engine. Besides the location that Bill already indicated, the insulation on the lead (from the tilt switch on the shifter) for down (blue) may be worn off and rubbing on the the metal part of the shifter (causing a short). This normally will happen near the base of the shifter.

At least this gives you something to do...if you wish...before going into the shop.

Mike
 
sorry it has been a while well I put a 15 amp fuse in and the trim worked fine without blowing fuse to use boat for a week then I put the 10 amp back in and brought to my mechanic and told him everything I did thanks to you guys. Of course it worked fine and he couldnt find a problem. I will keep using it until something happens maybe some corrision worked free, I did spray everything down when I was working on it . I will keep you posted thanks for all the help. My mechanic only charged me $20 to look at it so not bad. Thanks again
 
A lesson I learned awhile back (I think from JGMO) - find where the wires go into the tilt/trim motor and clean that area with alcohol, then apply some good flexible sealant, like 3M 4200. That will keep water from getting into the motor, which is the principal reason they fail.
 
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