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honda 5hp gear shifter seized....help

dennis316

New member
I mostly love to tinker with air cooled 2 strokes and have limited experience with liquid cooled 4 strokes with reverse and such. I picked this Honda up for a price I couldnt pass up. Was stored wrong and owner thought it was seized. Turns out it had oil everywhere including bowl. Started first pull without even a carb clean after 6 years of sitting. Runs like a top. The last thing I need to do is fix the seized gear shifter. And I mean its seized it doesn't wobble or move at all. My question is...where should I start? Top bottom? I don't want to force it unless I have to. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
Interesting that you could start it with it in gear. On most of the 5HPs, there is an interlock to prevent pulling the starter when in gear.

Most likely, you have a linkage up top messed up....however...to make things easier and to help isolate the issue, remove the lower unit.

If you shift handle operates easily, then the problem is in the lower unit or someone could also have set the shift linkage incorrectly

Make sure the throttle is set to idle when trying to shift, there is an interlock that will keep you from taking it out of gear if the throttle is advanced

There are a couple of places to start.

Mike
 
Interesting that you could start it with it in gear. On most of the 5HPs, there is an interlock to prevent pulling the starter when in gear.

Most likely, you have a linkage up top messed up....however...to make things easier and to help isolate the issue, remove the lower unit.

If you shift handle operates easily, then the problem is in the lower unit or someone could also have set the shift linkage incorrectly

Make sure the throttle is set to idle when trying to shift, there is an interlock that will keep you from taking it out of gear if the throttle is advanced

There are a couple of places to start.

Mike

Couple things. I see the physical interlock And its fine. Also, its stuck in neutral luckily. I opened he rubber cover to check the linkage and it seems like there's some give in the lower portion. The top seemed to be seized. Anyone have any diagrams on how to get to it? Seems pretty darn complicated
 
so i got the shifter to work, the bottom end works nicely, i lubed it up again and pit it back on. the top end is where its very hard to move. anyone know how hard it is to lubricate it? im thinking i have to pretty much take the motor off the lower end
 
OK I could use some help. I cannot explain how much I hate this engine. It appears to be designed by a committee of engineeers who were not talking to one another. I should have returned it when I bought it as it never shifted easily even when new and has been ridiculously unreliable despite doing all the stuff to maintain it. I have two other outboards and this one sits in the garage most of the time because I do not trust it. But now I need it and it will not shift except with unbelievably hard pushing on the lever. The lower unit is not the problem- I disconnected it and the lever will still not move. I have inspected the top linkages and lockouts in the head and they do not appear to be the problem. I have used a lot of PB Blaster where ever I can get at the thing. I am guessing that I need to get under the power head, but unsure of what I need to remove besides the 9 bolts holding the head on or what else is involved. Should I just give up?
 
Petethecat, you've probably either thrown this engine out or gotten through the problem by now, but I have the same issue. I couldn't get the shift shaft to loosen no matter what I did, so I pulled the powerhead and removed the lower pan. I used a propane torch to heat up the casting in which the shaft is inserted. At last I was able to get the shaft out. What remained were the plastic bushings (there are three). The end bushing were a lot easier to remove than the central bushing. It took some work driving a screwdriver with a hammer to finally push out the central bushing. In the end, I used sandpaper wrapped around a drill bit to ream out the remaining plastic and oxidation residue in the shaft casting. When I replace the bushings, I may ream the central bushing a bit so that the fit is not so tight. Also, waterproof grease might be a good idea, if the plastic doesn't swell from petrochemical exposure.

It was amazingly corroded inside the casting. The end of shaft nearest the middle casing (directly below the engine) seemed to have plenty of old oil gumming it up, too. I almost want to drill a hole in the casing, thread it and insert a grease nipple for periodic lubrication. As weak spots go, this one is a bear to have to deal with occasionally. Good luck! :p
 
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Wow Amanita!
Way to go! Great info on a recurring problem we've seen owners of these 5's have. Your's is the first comprehensive "been there, done it" work through I've seen.

Your description makes me wonder if it would be worthwhile to replace the plastic bushings with oil impregnated bronze bushings?

That is, IF suitable substitutes can be sourced.

Nice write up new member!

Welcome aboard the forum.
 
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