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200 hp - 2003 Remot Oil pump not turning on

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chuckmead

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I have twin 200 hp - 2003 Yamaha outboard motors.
Issue:
My remote oil pump will not turn on to pump oil from the remote oil tank to fill the outboard primary oil tank.
The alarms work correctly.
The RPM dropped to safety RPM Correctly.
The emergency Toggle switch that is located on the motor turns on the pump and fills the primary oil tank from the Remote Tank. Its tough taking the engine cover off in rough seas and hitting the emergency toggle switch -
Question:
Which components should I check or replace that tells the remote oil pump to kick on when the primary tank is at low mark?
 
Hello;

If it's both engines than I would say you have a power problem .
But if one engine than I would look at the wireing going to the Level float switch on the engine tank. It tells the pump to turn on.
It also could be the float assy.
I had a little water in my main tank and it gumed up the small filter below the tank. Working the switch on the engine it sometimes worked.
You might want to check that also.
Good Luck
 
Lets zero down on this,
Its on one engine, so its not a power problem.
The emergency toggle switch pumps the oil , so its not a power problem or the emergency toggle,
I took the Float assembly apart, When I lift the float the buzzer goes on as it did in the field and worked correctly.
There must be a electronic switch that turns on the pump!
Where is this electronic switch that turns on the remote oil pump when the primary tank is low?
 
So using this chart it is either:
A- Trim Gauge that is keeping the pump from turning on !
B - or I need to start jumping wires and go down the remaining list.
I will work on (A) First as well as working.
So the trim gauge has a signal that may cut off the pump! This is so it will not fill while tilted, If the trim tab shows tilted even though the motor is level than it will shut off the pump is that correct?

it seems that the (SW2,engine tank switch), closes you get a pump on command is not working.
It may not be working for two reasons!
Reason #1 - Trim Tab is giving bad information shutting off the (SW2,engine tank switch), closes you get a pump on command.
Reason #2 - (SW2,engine tank switch) is not working properly.

So what should my tach look like if the (SW2,engine tank switch) is not working properly. (first bar Blank, second bar solid, third bar blank)? for SWB open OR the circuit is bad you get a center bar AND NO automatic transfer. or does it look different.
I currently have left solid, middle blinking, right blank.
I would like to get the gauge to tell me before jumping wires if its not my trim tab.


 
You can test the engine's oil tank sensor with an ohm meter if you have one. Here's the reference page from the shop manual:

Oil Level Sensor Testing.jpg
That's about it. There's no "trim gauge" interface on that motor.
If it works with the emergency toggle switch but not on it's own it's usually just the sensor switch on the tank.

Here's more info on troubleshooting: http://www.bwbmag.com/output.cfm?id=942859

-Mike
 
Last edited:
chuckmead said:
So using this chart it is either:
A- Trim Gauge that is keeping the pump from turning on !
B - or I need to start jumping wires and go down the remaining list.
I will work on (A) First as well as working.
So the trim gauge has a signal that may cut off the pump! This is so it will not fill while tilted, If the trim tab shows tilted even though the motor is level than it will shut off the pump is that correct?

it seems that the (SW2,engine tank switch), closes you get a pump on command is not working.
It may not be working for two reasons!
Reason #1 - Trim Tab is giving bad information shutting off the (SW2,engine tank switch), closes you get a pump on command.
Reason #2 - (SW2,engine tank switch) is not working properly.

So what should my tach look like if the (SW2,engine tank switch) is not working properly. (first bar Blank, second bar solid, third bar blank)? for SWB open OR the circuit is bad you get a center bar AND NO automatic transfer. or does it look different.
I currently have left solid, middle blinking, right blank.
I would like to get the gauge to tell me before jumping wires if its not my trim tab.
Click to expand...

It would be the engine trim sender not the trim tabs. Two different things.
 
Chris;
That info that Mike sent addressed the problem perfectly.
Mike ( or Chris ) if you are reading this what shop manual do you have , I would like to purchase one .
Also Chris let us know if you found the problem,
Good Luck;
Bob
 
Docksidemarineservices said:
It would be the engine trim sender not the trim tabs. Two different things.
Click to expand...

That is correct, I meant the Trim sender unit.
Unfortunitly everyone says that the trim sender unit for the 2003 LZ200TXRB cannot disrupt the oil pump,
Thr trim sender was stuck up,
In my case when the oil trim sender is set up it turns off the pump, when the sender is down the automatic pump turns on.
now I do not know if I fixed the problem or not. ???
It operates but everyone says it should not disrupt the pump!
 
Restart of Post, we will do one item at a time, I purposly dropped the oil level 1/4" below the low mark on the primary oil tank on the port outboard motor to simulate the issue in the field, the trim sensors read down, the pump only kicks on with the emergency toggle switch:

Motor # LZ200TXRB - 2003
Actual Oil levels:
Primary oil tank on outboard is simulated 1/4" lower than LOW Mark to create simulated issue.
Remote tank is full.

Problem:
Tach Meter reads First Bar Blinking, Alarms are ringing:
Automatic Pump Does not kick on,
 
If the starboard motor works like it should, try swapping the oil level sensors between the motors... Did you run through the tests with the multimeter?

-Mike
 
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