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HELP!!!! Oil out of starter, flywheel area too

P

pattyboy

New member
HI everyone, 2002 bf130, totally spent too much money on it already.....2 hrs in test run, discovered oil in flywheel area.....have to do myself, lower crankcase seal??? what else should i know? I have the service manual, I know I have to pull powerhead and lower unit.....I think the engine was submerged.....already spent 6000 on repairs......would of bought new engine if I would of had crystal ball.....pls any step by step info would be appreciated.....

thx in advance
 
Check out this parts page and see what you might be up against. Look at item 14, sealing bolts. There are two of them and I've seen hondadude mention them more than once as being oil leak sources. I don't have anything specific to offer because I've never worked on one of these. But, a can of engine degreaser, a flashlight and an inspection mirror might get you some answers as to where it's leaking.
Good luck.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2002/BF130A2 XCA /OIL PUMP/parts.html
 
On these motors I think you start by removing the lower unit and then go up to the motor from there.----Fairly involved work and lots of pieces and a couple of expensive gaskets.------Not as simple as working on a 2 stroke engine.
 
racerone said:
On these motors I think you start by removing the lower unit and then go up to the motor from there.----Fairly involved work and lots of pieces and a couple of expensive gaskets.------Not as simple as working on a 2 stroke engine.
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thx guys for the info!!! 6 hrs later she is all apart, and the flywheel boss is pretty rusted.....Do I have to go further up and take the flywheel off? Do they sell a complete gasket kit for these engines? I don't need all , but might come in handy in the future.......I know saltwater got into the flywheel housing, rusting it out, but from where??? I guess all gaskets from the flywheel down need changing to make sure??? thx again, you guys are great!
 
pattyboy said:
thx guys for the info!!! 6 hrs later she is all apart, and the flywheel boss is pretty rusted.....Do I have to go further up and take the flywheel off? Do they sell a complete gasket kit for these engines? I don't need all , but might come in handy in the future.......I know saltwater got into the flywheel housing, rusting it out, but from where??? I guess all gaskets from the flywheel down need changing to make sure??? thx again, you guys are great!
Click to expand...


Well, she's all together now!!! Seems that there are no leaks , all is running great......only thing is my mil light is telling me a tp sensor error......any clues guys??? I will trace wires tomorrow and see whats up......hoping all our hard work will hold up! Sure looks cleaner now with all parts cleaned and shined up.....damn saltwater can really eat up parts if left unmaintained......
 
Just the obvious....
make sure it is connected
check the pins in the connectors

hopefully, you did not spray it with anything harsh.

Mike
 
It might have logged a code if you had it unplugged and hooked up the battery before plugging it back in. Check and make sure your reference voltage is good. Should be about 5 volts

You can check these with an analogue ohm meter or graphing multimeter set on the ohm scale . "Sweep" it across it's range while hooked to signal return and ground terminals and look for any bouncing or dropouts.

And, you can use a voltmeter to see if it is out of range at idle or at WOT. With the key on, engine off you are looking for less than 1v. at idle and around 4.5v at WOT.
 
jgmo said:
It might have logged a code if you had it unplugged and hooked up the battery before plugging it back in. Check and make sure your reference voltage is good. Should be about 5 volts

You can check these with an analogue ohm meter or graphing multimeter set on the ohm scale . "Sweep" it across it's range while hooked to signal return and ground terminals and look for any bouncing or dropouts.

And, you can use a voltmeter to see if it is out of range at idle or at WOT. With the key on, engine off you are looking for less than 1v. at idle and around 4.5v at WOT.
Click to expand...

thx for the info guys.....started her tonights, and "wiggled" the connection to the idle sensor.....she bogged and stalled! either the connection or wiring......might have this prob at a few spots, i think corrosion is definately the issue........
another question , my overheat light is on right away at start up , obviously engine cold, no buzzer!
Water out of telltale, , new t-stat, impeller, flushed.......new temp sensor......w the hell??? I know the peehole water never gets hot....is that normal or should it feel warm?? The water is warm out the prop though.....Really don't want to overheat this engine after all my work.

thx
pat
 
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Could be more of a corrosion issue, a faulty sensor (there are four), or a grounded lead going to your overheat light. The overheat light should not come on just as the engine starts, when the engine is cold without an incorrect electrical condition. Make sure it comes on then goes off when you turn the key switch to on.

If the ECM sends out a signal to operate the light, it should also be sending the signal to operate the warning horn. I am assuming the warning horn is working....does it beep when you turn the key switch to on?

When you pulled the engine, did you remove any grounds to the engine? Recheck that you reconnected them all and one is not dangling in there somewhere, giving you false indications.

Just a few thoughts.

Mike
 
definately corrosion in the contacts, cleaned , then wiggled connections and no bogging now.....now to the o.heat light always on with no buzzer, yes i know my buzzer works good....i think it is a grounded lead....



also , when i short the service connector , should the mil always be on??? when i take it out, it goes off, when there is an error message, it works fine too, showing me the codes....thought i read somewhere that when the mil stays on with service connector shorted, it means the ecm "backing" is bad......what is the backing???

also, new t-stat and o.heat sensor......but how do i know if engine is overheating??? ( without relying on the sensor for now) telltale water is cold.......top of t-stat housing gets pretty hot after 15 min of idle......I know the relief valve for my backwash system is gone, hole is plugged though......does that make a difference? it is on order .....
thanks again mike, your info is priceless.
cheers
pat.
 
It will feel hot. The thermostat opens fully at 180 deg F.

Feeling the telltail will not tell you if it is running hot. The only standard way, that I know of, is for the temp sensors to be connected and working. Chawk has come up with a way to actually connect a temp gauge to his 225 that seems to work well. If you can not find your problem, that may be the way to go.

If you disconnect the ECM and disconnect the connection to the red light, check the resistance of the lead to ground. With both ends disconnected, it should be an open circuit.


Mike
 
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