225 V-tec....run hard?

Background.....2006 225, used for inshore saltwater charter fishing in Florida.

So, naturally I don't fly around the a crazy man with customers. And all summer most days include "chilrenz" under 8 years old, with mom and dad or grandpa'. So,*I hit spots. Every other day at least I'm out. I don't do long runs. I can be on the first "spot" to try in 5 minutes many times and then just BOP from spot to spot all day long.

1500 hrs on motor, and probably not an 1/8th of them is at wide open throttle.

I though it may have been in conjunction with my Capt Mac's river runner skeg guard, a HD stainless steel guard for the whole skeg, that's big and kinda obtrusive, really.


But has paid for itself many times over in "protection" from rocks and oysterbars.


I couldn't seem to get over 4200 RPM for a long time. I tweeked with the trim and maybe could squeeze 4400 out of the motor, just maybe.

I'd be full throttled and it just wouldn't sound like the V-tec, which makes a genuine different sound when it kicks in, wasn't kicking in.

So I had a little time, and took off the skeg guard. And after a slow day of putt-putt
fishing with some little "chilrenz', I dropped them off and went and ran hard up and down the river.

For miles....... I'm now running at 5 grand or better. And believe, that's all this prop can do. But that's okay. On a 26' CC welded plate alloy boat. I'm ripping! at 5300 rpm.

My question to Honda dude and the rest is:

Is this motor getting all stiffled from non-high speed long runs? And should I run it hard alot more?

I hear all kinds of stuff like....."them Honda's wanna run fast...." "when I was in the coasties we ran the crap out them, to keep them running good"

Ya get my drift. (I think the coasties run the crap out them because they're 18-22 years old and are sitting in a boat that costs tax payers 350K to 450K each, and the gas and maintenance and motors are free)

Is the V-tec a use it or loose it kinda system?* I've read how it works.

Doesn"t really matter what speed you run your unit. What does matter that your scheduled maintance is performed. And that you use marine grade motor oil if Honda oil is not. If the large filter below the high pressure pump, in the vapor seperator has not been inspected or replaced then you are running on borrowed time. It would also be a great time to give her a serious dose of Sea Foam to de carbon her. I see way to many units loosing performance due to coked up or seized rings. Also if you have Nippon Denso plugs then replace with NGK. It's also time to clean main intake air screen in air box and IAC screen. Thanks Martin

Ditto in spades on the previous post. Would highly recommend decarbonizing at this point. I have 1300+ Hours on my 2008 225. The vast majority of that 1300 hours has been trolling either on the Chesapeake or off Hatteras. I follow maintenance schedule religiously. Pony up the bucks to have my dealer pull the 400 hour maintenance. Motor still starts and runs perfectly (with one small exception.) I've decarbonized once. Now, every other tank or so, I fill up with Valvtec treated fuel. When I can't get the Valvtec treated fuel when I'm at Hatteras, I add SeaFoam.

After about 400 hours or so of a good break in, I don't think you need to push the WOT that much. I seldom go to WOT any more, because the engine is well broken in, and that costs me 20 gallons per hour fuel burn. Typical cruise speed to and from the fishing grounds for me is 4400 to 5000 rpm, based on sea conditions. However, if you do not use a decarbonizer in your fuel, then I would recommend a good run-out at WOT every week or so.

The small exception mentioned above - between 4400 and 4600 rpm, the V-tec kicks in and out on it's own volition, varying rpm's by about 100. Irritating, but not a significant issue.

Hmmmmmmm, all good points. But the motor is impecably maintained. Decarbonizer every 100 hours. NGK plugs only, scheduled oil changes, Lower Unit lube, Racor filter changes/ draining, High and low presssure fuel screens, other than that, It needs a mechanic then. New 02 sensor and all new ECU that was reccomended.

Maybe she's a real lemon, because she's had her problems for sure. Personally went with Honda because I thought it would be quality. But it isn't, by a long shot.

-Paint falling off
-Especially on cowling
-Chipped forward tooth on L.U. gear 1st year.
-Hole in a water passage behind intake, because of bad casting. (No Honda QC obviously)
-30" shaft, so of course that drive shaft middle bushing turned or moved sideways and was squealing like mad against drive shaft. Took 3 hours to get out, via the best machanic in all of NE Florida, had mass build up of salt and crap.
-O2 sensor replacement with new ECU (warrenty via all Honda's my model year and more)

Well she does 5000 rpm's now. And certainly don't need any more than that.

If it wasn't for controls, gauges and all that. I'd be going with another "color" next time around.

Only brand I have not had or run is a, Zuki 4 stroker.

My theory is, if these engines were actually built like a car or truck, they'd have to re-tool the whole factory and start over, of go out of business. Because, they all have issues. My old 1995 Ford F-250 with the 351 V-8 just ran and ran, pulled and yanked, for 225K miles......But it wasn't sucking salt air or running at 4500 rpm's all the time, either.

Actually, the Honda BF 200, and BF225 are the Honda J35 auto engine block, so it is made like an auto. I doubt you seldom get your F-250 above 3000 rpm, and you are not driving up hill all the time, either. But you are correct, the weaknesses in the engine appears mostly to come from the peripheral stuff they hang on it to make it an outboard - there seem to be minimal problems with the basic engine.

Ya got that straight. I was really pissed at the hole in the block. But eventually got over it.

Just spent another $160 on maintenance parts, for after the 4th of July week, when I can do it all.

My super-duper best advice for people who own 30" shafts is to pull that lower unit every six months and grease that shaft and look up into mid section with a light and inspect that damn drive shaft bushing up in there.

It's funny how you said you "cruise" at 4500-5000rpm to fishing grounds. When 5000 rpm is W.O.T. for me.
Guess its my prop. Never really got much more than that from brand new in 2006

Starting with the 2007 or 2008 model, Honda did something to change the way that bushing and bearing are lubricated and cooled. I think the may have made the water port larger, but not sure. Anyway, the later models don't seem to have the problem, although I have my dealer remove and check it every 400 hours when I take it there for all the tests and adjustments. This was done just recently at 1200 hours, and there has not been any problems. I run exclusively in saltwater.

Me too.....and the next time I hear a squeal, I'll know exactly what it is.