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NOt sure

Fatbs

Member
Not sure even +on how to start trying to explain this one... I have a Evinrude VRO 50hp 1988 model. I have disconnected the VRO and now premixing my fuel...
One of the problem is the motor will not idle too well it will idle but will die after a very short time. plus when i shift it intoo gear it will die....
The biggest problem is after running it in WOT (and it runs very very smooth) for either a short time or long time when i put it back into neutral the motor revs up to very very high rpms for about ten to fifteen secends and also does this even if i turn the key off........... Any help??????
 
Evinrude VRO 50hp 1988 model. I have disconnected the VRO and now premixing my fuel. Motor will not idle well, but will die after a very short time. plus when i shift it intoo gear it will die. After running WOT for a short or long time, when i put it back into neutral the motor revs up to very high rpms for about 10 to 15 seconds and also does this even if i turn the key off

Check the linkages of the engine and also the control box for excessive play that may be leaving the throttle setting and/or the timer base of the engine set at a high rpm setting when the controls are returned to idles. The "high revs" even when the key is turned off indicates a runaway engine, and this condition only occurs if the spark advance and/or throttle butterflies are set to the full throttle setting when the engine is in neutral or not under a load (running on a flushette or losing a prop, broken driveshaft, etc).

With engine NOT RUNNING, spin the propeller so as to align the shifter dog and gear lobes and put the engine into forward gear. While closely observing the engine linkages, move the control box throttle lever to full throttle.. let it sit a few seconds. Now, while still VERY closely observing the engine linkages, slowly return the control throttle lever back to its neutral position.

1 - The timer base under the flywheel should have returned all the way back to its fully retarded idle position.

2 - The vertical throttle/spark advance arm should have returned to its normal idle position where its idle stop screw is right up against its stop, against the block.

3 - The metal cam what has the scribe mark on it should have backed away from the throttle cam roller (not touching), allowing the carburetor throttle butterflies to close completely.

I suspect that somewhere within the above 3 areas that something has not returned to normal. Let us know what you find.

Also, the shaft that the throttle butterflies are attached to should be a machined fit.... that is they should turn freely BUT play should not exist that would allow them to move vertically which would allow air to flow where it doesn't belong.

If you have changed the synchronization linkages between the vertical throttle arm and the metal cam that slides against the throttle roller, OR have adjusted the roller so that it opens before or after the scribe mark aligns with the center of the roller, that will need to be returned to the factory specifications.

Possibly you have not done away with the VRO setup properly? See below.

(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup (and fuel restriction warning if so equipped) by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quantity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.

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http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
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it has taken me a minute to get back to you or to even be able to work on the motor. I am 95% sure i disconnected the VRO the right way. Now about the other greek you were speaking in......lol... I have done the wot thing and watched as everything has gone back to where they came from. I have a question about number 1. The timer base under the flywheel. How do i know where it is suppose to return to?
 
I have a question about number 1. The timer base under the flywheel. How do i know where it is suppose to return to?

The vertical throttle arm (arm throttle cable is attached to) has a large coil spring that allows the bottom portion to move independent of the upper portion at a certain point when advancing. However, when returning to the idle position, the vertical throttle arm should look like a one piece (straight) arm and the "Idle Set Screw" in the arm should be rested against its stop (either a small bracket or the block itself). The link at the top of the vertical throttle arm is connected directly to the timer base which would pull it back to where it belongs.
 
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