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1959 35 HP Johnson Super Sea Horse Running Bad.

Clint1395

Contributing Member
Hello everyone, I tried getting help from Iboats forums, but i didnt get many responses. I bought this motor about a month ago for 200 dollars. Initally the motor ran pretty good on the barrell. When i got to the lake the motor didnt run very well. When i got it up on plane it would start surging like i was going from full to no throttle and back again. i have ordered a new fuel pump because I thought that was the most likely culprit. I also removed the flywheel to see what the ignition looked like. everything looked new except for one of the coils that was falling apart. i ordered a new coil and a new float for the carb since the old one was made of cork. my question is about how the coil mounts, when i removed the coil the plug wire didnt have a metal end on it, it was just bare wire stuck into the coil. is this correct or is the plug wire supposed to have a metal end? also i have a question about the cut-out switch. i would like to delete it all together. Can i just disconnect the ground? Thanks for the future help!!
 
The interior portion of that coil has a spiral like prong whereas the plug wire inserts and actually screws onto that spiraled prong (no metal except the wire itself).

The cutout switch.... If you're speaking of the vaccum cutout switch that has one of the ignition point wires attached to it. Don't attempt to do away with it as that's the only component that keeps that engine from a runaway condition. Without it, if the engine over reved (and they do), the vaccum cutout switch shorts one set of points out to kill one cylinder to drop those rpms to normal.

(Magneto & Driver Coil Alignment)
(J. Reeves)

To align the coils properly, have the metal vertical portion of the coil yokes aligned with the inside edge of the bevel that exists on the top portion of the aluminum seat upon which the coils sit. This creates the proper distance between the coils and the flywheel magnets. Faulty alignment creats friction and the yokes of the coils heat up, turn blue and expand.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at


http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
Thanks! I'll leave it on there then. I believe it's the light brown wire coming out of the harness that goes to the cut out switch. Correct? If so does that wire need to be wired to a ground? I'm assuming yes since you woul want to ground out the top cylinder coil in an over rev condition. Is this correct?Also thanks for the info on the coils! I'll check out your store for other parts I may need.
 
If you're using a kill button or ignition switch, a loose wire would lead from the center connection of that vaccum switch to one of the button connectors or ignition switch "M" terminals and from the other button connector or other ignition "M" terminals to ground. The idea is to ground out the points together to kill the ignition when needed.
 
Thanks alot for all the help huys!! ill get it all back together one day next week and let yall know how it goes! great advice though1 thanks!!
-Clint
 
yea, i think i have the carb set up perfect, it was running right before the coil and fuel pump let go the other day. Will i hurt the engine if i run regular 2 stroke oil in it? I thought i would be ok running 24:1 or 50:1? any thoughts?
 
I replaced both coils condensers points everything electronic except plug wires and it runs great. Fouled out one plug after about 10 minutes of idling but that was an old plug. Thanks everyone for all your help! Can't wait to get it on the lake.
 
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