There was a thread with a similar issue, but it missed the mark slightly, so I'll try again.
My new-to-me 1984 4-108M has a final fuel filter that is a little different than that shown in my manual. It is an exposed cartridge type, has banjo connections downstream rather than compression fittings, and most importantly, doesn't have a "bleed screw". The manual warns that you should open the bleed screw "and not the tank return" so I was a little hesitant to go spelunking.
Anyway, after changing my fuel filter, I had to use the injector pump bleed screw to get the engine running again, but because it's on the opposite side of the engine from the lift pump primer, I was working blind and probably put a lot more diesel into the bilge than necessary. Simply bleeding the cartridge would have been much faster.
The boat is also fitted with an electric fuel pump with a toggle switch and crossover fuel lines, which I assume is intended to address this problem, but the pump didn't appear to work. Either the pump is shot or the wiring is fouled up.
My new-to-me 1984 4-108M has a final fuel filter that is a little different than that shown in my manual. It is an exposed cartridge type, has banjo connections downstream rather than compression fittings, and most importantly, doesn't have a "bleed screw". The manual warns that you should open the bleed screw "and not the tank return" so I was a little hesitant to go spelunking.
Anyway, after changing my fuel filter, I had to use the injector pump bleed screw to get the engine running again, but because it's on the opposite side of the engine from the lift pump primer, I was working blind and probably put a lot more diesel into the bilge than necessary. Simply bleeding the cartridge would have been much faster.
The boat is also fitted with an electric fuel pump with a toggle switch and crossover fuel lines, which I assume is intended to address this problem, but the pump didn't appear to work. Either the pump is shot or the wiring is fouled up.