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Stringer hose connection safe for waterpump

cwebb

New member
"I've been working on a 19

"I've been working on a 1966 OMC Stringer, trying to bring it back to life from the corn-field that it spent last winter in.

This summer, to try to determine what I was in for, I ran the engine a few times on the trailer, with the garden hose hooked up to the Flush adapter on the drive-unit pivot end-cap. I understood that the water flow was necessary to keep the lower-unit water pump from burning out.

I wasn't able to find many details about using this hose adapter for this purpose, but what I found said that, while the engine was running, to simply keep a steady stream of water coming out the exhaust and the tattle-tale holes. Is this correct?

According to the OMC Service Manual cooling system section, the water-flow diagram shows the water going up and forward, from the vertical-drive and into the engine.

My question regarding this is, how does the Flush-it hose-hook-up keep the lower-unit pump from burning out if, at the Flush-it location, the water-flow is away from the pump and into the engine? ie the water goes toward the engine at that point, and eventually leaves via the exhaust.

If I or a previous owner has already burned out this pump (knock on wood), what indicator would I have before the boat went into the water? Do I have to stick it into a drum of water to see if it still pumps, or does the hose hookup method reveal something?

I appreciate any light anyone can shed on this for me."
 
"I have been told it will NOT

"I have been told it will NOT protect the impeller in the lower Drive unit....This from a guy who's had boats for years....not actually been proven true, though."
 
"Hmmm....

Well, I can see I


"Hmmm....

Well, I can see I'll need to dig further! Perhaps I'll take a vote here on the forum, or maybe I can take it apart a wee bit to see what's up in there.

Thanks for your inputs, however.

Any other opinions?
happy.gif
"
 
"Scott Stephens has my vote. T

"Scott Stephens has my vote. The factory manual states that there is enough flow to keep the lower unit pump wet. I've set mine up with a "tee" in the hose from the intermediate hsng. to the thermostat hsng., and there is enough flow that I get water coming out of the water intake under the cavitation plate. I've confirmed from two different OMC mechanics here in the area that this will work as well if not better than the pivot end-cap method. Remember though that when running the engine with this method that engine should not exceed 1200-1500 rpm's, and should not be run for an extended period of time, as the lower unit is cooled by the surrounding water as well as the water pumped through the internals. This is especially important in the electric shift models where the coils are only cooled by the surrounding water.
Hope this helps some."
 
I just piked up a baot with an

I just piked up a baot with an OMC stern drive. I would like to test it in the driveway before I dry to start it in a very busy boat lanch. Supposedly it has been winterized properly. I would like to put in a flush T as Dave has and I purchased the biggest rubermaid tube i could find. Withj the tub I can insure the intake is in water. I will run the hose as well and it can dump out into the tub. I have amanual on order but at this time am not sure which hose to put the T in. There are 4 hoses to the Thermostat housing 2 go to the intermediate housing one goes to the front of the exhaust manifold and one goes to the exhaust outlet going to the sterndrive. It is a 1975 vintage GM 250CID.
 
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