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4.107 spare parts in Hobart Australia.

Shifter

New member
Does anyone know where I can find spare parts for a 4.107 in Australia or Tasmania? I specifically need gaskets for a top end overhaul.
Thanks,

Shifter.
 
Shifter,
this is an old address but maybe their still in business; perkins engines pty ltd pobox156 dandenong, victoria, australia.

Perkins was aquired by caterpillar several years ago but parts are still available.
Charlie w
 
Thanks Charlie, I'll give them a try.


Shifter,
this is an old address but maybe their still in business; perkins engines pty ltd pobox156 dandenong, victoria, australia.

Perkins was aquired by caterpillar several years ago but parts are still available.
Charlie w
 
Rocker box cork gasket, cylinder head gasket, various other head gaskets, although chart paper would probably do with some goo. Not sure about valves yet until I get the head off. Lots of corrosion inside the rocker box, especially in way of the rocker shaft, push rods. It appears the engine has been left with moisture about for some time. Runs OK but I think I had a stick valve on my last outing so I think I should overhaul the head at least. Need a new Japsco sea water pump too - expensive I fear?
 
G'day,
Gorringe reconditioning in nth Hobart can do any machine work and supply the listed parts. These are a wet liner engine so any water in lube oil could also mean liner seal or landing problems. I have worked on a lot 4-107s and still have the odd bits & pieces, is your raw water pump in need of a rebuild?
 
From what I can see of the lube oil, it looks pretty good. It is certainly not emulsified and shows good lubricity. Raw water (sea water) pump is in need of a rebuild. I will go and see Gorringes tomorrow, thanks.
 
Shakey,

You wouldn't know where I can get a second hand or new rocker shaft and a rocker arm post from??? Would you?? for a Perkins 4.107.
 
G'day,
Sounds like your perky has had a hard time. Which boat is it in ?. Try Keith Smith Box Hill rd Claremont may know of parts or have some. I get my parts from the The Rock Tractor center . The Rock. NSW. They have any thing and everything perkins new & s/hand and are easy and hassle free to deal with. I'am 99% sure 4.99 & 4.108 rocker gear will also fit a 4.107.

Cheers, Shakey.
 
Finally found some spares in the UK, from an old mate. I think / hope the problem is with the top end only. The engine runs/ran OK but anything over 2700 rpm it started smoking, light blue/white. probably an indication a little oil is being burnt at those revs. Starts OK, almost first time. Hopefully a top end overhaul will do the trick. Quite a lot of corrosion to the valve gear and push rods. This indicates the initial problem was probably a stuck valve, although i have cleaned the entire fuel system as well. Soon as I get the bits I will lift the head and overhaul it.

Thanks for your info, very helpful.

The boat was ex Bruny Island - 26ft Celery top pine. Nice old girl so i want to try and get the engine reliable at least. She only does 5 knots down hill, so no greyhound, but steady.
 
Difficult to get an air compressor out to my boat mooring and it's a diesel so no spark plugs. The sentiment and information is excellent, though.

I have a compression tester which I will use to check the compression of each unit, whilst the head is still on. Should give me an indication of what is going on. When I overhaul the head I will fit new valve seals, i think it's only the inlet valves which have the seals.

Thanks again for your comments.
 
Work is prgressing well. got a new set of valves and seals from the UK and have had Gorringe carry out an overehaul and clean up the head. New valves and guides fitted, new welsh plugs and a very small skim. Now I have found I have two cylinder head studs which are bent. They are the two studs which fit through the thermostat housing so are slightly longer than the standard stud (3/8 UNF about 5 1/2" long), if anyone has a couple or knows where I can source a couple it would be appreciated. The thermostat housing is also badly corroded and will not seat on to the cylinder head. Need a new one or a good second hand one - anyone??? If I can't get one I will have to get one made, simillarly with the studs - mucho dollars!!
 
G'day Shifter,
For the studs try Gorringe, Tas engine reconditioners or Nuts & Bolts in Albert rd. Which heat exchanger and type of mounting do you have there are a couple of different ones, in the mean time i will have a look in the back of the shed.

Cheers, Shakey.
 
Shakey,

The heat exchanger is of the header tank type made by Bowman, it has an oil cooler on one end. The thermostat housing is as the pic below.

dec7e54e.jpg


http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff299/Snikrep777/Boats/

Thanks,
 
G'day,
DIecon engineering in Brisbane or All marine spares sydney may be able to help with a outlet elbow. You could try hand facing the old elbow and filling the damaged face with plastibond or like, then use a 2--3mm insertion rubber joint under-----it has been done before.
 
Shakey,

Thanks for the information. I have built up the internals of the thermostat housing with Devcon, to give me a better sealing face. I am also going to machine the face flat and make up a piece of jointing to cover the entire thermostat face. That way when the two head studs are torqued down the housing will not distort. I am also going to have a couple of 3/8 UNF studs machined up. when it's completed it should get me going again. Thanks again for your help.
 
Finally got the cylinder head fitted to the engine. two new cylinder heads studs made up and the thermostat housing built up with Devcon and filed flat. All tightened down and no leaks. Next job was to bleed the rule system. Filter full, no bubbles, loads of bubble free fuel at the bleed screw on the side of the fuel pump and at the rule inlet to the HP pump. When turning the engine over on the key, only small amounts of fuel are spurting from the HP fuel lines. Not sure how much fuel should spurt? Should it be a really strong pulse?

Had to curtail work as the starter motor was getting too warm. when turning the engine over there was a ticking noise coming from the HP fuel pump which I presume is fuel being pressurised within the pump?

Will have another go tomorrow or when when the weather is a little better. Seems like there must be air locked inside the system somewhere and I can only presume it is inside of the HP fuel pump. It's right PITA!!
 
There are 2 x 5/16''AF bleed scews to be found on hydraulic gov fuel pump one on the side and one on very top of the pump speeder adjustment screw be carefull not to undo the btm nut, bleed btm screw first. The fuel pump should run silently when fully blead, use the priming pump to bleed the hp pump you may have to turn engine 360degs if pump is not working due to engine stopping on the back of cam with pump pecker lever already depressed. When cranking engine over to bleed hp lines make sure STOP lever is in RUN position and use full throttle.There will not be much more than a srong dribble come from pipe ends once you see fuel at 3 ends engine should be able to start . Hp pipe end nuts are 5/8''AF.

Cheers, Shakey.
 
Thanks Shakey - going to give another go tomorrow morning as the weather is going to be reasonable.

Will report what happens.

Thanks again.
 
Spent the morning out on the boat. Bleed the fuel system again from the start using the lift pump. A couple of squirts of AreoStart (cheating) and away she went. Run off load for about 15 mins at various RPM, slipped the mooring and ran down the river. Sailed for a bit and then motored back to the mooring. No leaks and sweat as nut! Might just have to check the tappets again, a little noisy, but apart from that all OK - at the moment.

Thanks for your help Shakey.
 
I'am pleased hear all your effort produced the outcome deserved. What a start to spring!!!! deserves a beer.

Cheers, Shakey.
 
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