Besides the still not solved problem with the engine not shutting down, the battery does not get charged.
1 - To come back to to the kill circuit... we checked the wiring with an ohm meter and the key switch and all the wires are installed correctly according to the "kill circuit"..... BUT it still doesnt shut down when the key is in the off position.
2 - The battery doesnt get charged, also checked with meter while running.
3 - The ignition needs to be set because the engine misfires sometimes, especially with high rpm. How do you set it right ?
4 - When turning the key switch, the RPM meter immediatly shows 6000,we checked the wiring in the front everything fits, it may just be broken?
1 - Kill Circuit... Keep in mind that when checking the continuity with a ohm meter, the wire being tested must be disconnected at both ends. If the black/yellow wire checks out okay, and the ignition switch "M" terminals function as: (Key OFF = M terminals connected... Key ON = M terminals disconnected), and the engine still doesn't shut down, then one can safely assume the powerpack is defective.
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Ignition Kill Circuit)
(J. Reeves)
A Black wire (ground) should lead from the powerhead to the powerpack. There will also be a Black/Yellow wire leading from the powerpack to a raised "M" terminal of the ignition switch. To complete the circuit, there will be a Black wire from the other "M" terminal of the ignition switch to ground.
When the key is in the OFF position = The two "M" terminals are connected,. effectively shorting/killing the ignition.
When the key in ON position = The two "M" terminals are not connected and the ignition is engaged.
2 - The battery isn't charging and the tachometer is acting up... indicates the rectifier is faulty. Test as follows.
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Small Rectifier Test)
(J. Reeves)
Remove the rectifier wires from the terminal block. Using a ohm meter, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the rectifier base (ground), then one by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, then the red wire (some rectifiers may also have a fourth yellow/blue wire. If so connect to that also). Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and check those same wires again. You should get a reading in one direction, and none at all in the other direction.
Now, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the red wire. One by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, and if present, the yellow/blue wire. Then reverse the leads, checking the wires again. Once more, you should get a reading in one direction and none in the other.
Note that the reading obtained from the red rectifier wire will be lower then what is obtained from the other wires.
Any deviation from the "Reading", "No Reading" as above indicates a faulty rectifier. Note that a rectifier will not tolerate reverse polarity. Simply touching the battery with the cables in the reverse order or hooking up a battery charger backwards will blow the diodes in the rectifier assy immediately.
3 - I assume you're asking about setting the full spark advance timing. It can be set as follows.
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Timing At Cranking Speed 4°)
(J. Reeves)
NOTE: If your engine has the "
Fast Start" feature", you must disconnect/eliminate that feature in order to use the following method. The "Fast Start" automatically advances the spark electronically when the engine first starts, dropping it to normal when the engine reaches a certain temperture.
The full spark advance can be adjusted at cranking speed,"
without" have the engine running as follows.
To set the timing on that engine, have the s/plugs out, and have the throttle at full, set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary).
Rig up a spark tester on the #1 cylinder plug wire. Hook up the timing light to the #1 plug wire. Crank the engine over and set the spark advance to 4° less than what the engine calls for.
It's a good idea to ground the other plug wires to avoid sparks that could ignite fuel that may shoot out of the plug holes. I've personally never grounded them out and have never encountered a problem (fire) but it could happen.
I don't know the full spark advance setting your engine calls for, but to pick a figure, say your engine calls for 28°, set the timing at 24°. The reasoning for the 4° difference is that when the engine is actually running, due to the nature of the solid state ignition componets, the engine gains the extra 4°.
If you set the engine to its true setting at cranking speed, when running it will advance beyond its limit by 4° which will set up pre-ignition causing guaranteed piston damage! You don't want that to take place.
No need to be concerned about the idle timing as that will take care of itself. The main concern is the full advance setting.
Be sure to use your own engines spark advance settings, not the one I picked out of the air here in my notes.
4 - Tachometer reads 6000 as soon as key is turned ON... If new rectifier doesn't cure this problem, either the tachometer is wired wrong or is faulty.
If the above is confusing you to a point whereas you don't understand what has been explained, find someone who does to help you to avoid making expensive mistakes.
