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carb ay body assymbly for 95 johsnon 130 hp

busta76205

New member
So I am having trouble finding these parts. don't know if it was because of few years for this motor or because omc went out of business. Anyway, I need something that will work for part 436950 for carbs (part 21 on grid) on engine model j130tleoa. not sure if there was a change and they made a different part I could use or not. Any info would be great. thx
 
looks like alcohol has made little cracks or lines in the body since they made em plastic for a few years, i am having to adjust the carbs to run rich for performance. I just was wanting to know if i could use the carb bodys from another model or not if you know of part numbers i could use that would be great! it is called a johnson 130 looper also
 
I know what motor you are talking about , have a half dozen or so of them including a 97 -130 HP model. Should be no problem finding a set of used ones for 130 or 140 HP model on E-BAY or many motor wreckers that are online.
 
ya i found all four for around 200 from a guy, just wish the mechanic that charged me for carb clean and messing with the carbs i had on there. would put these on for a deal. i paid him 771.00 for pretty much carb clean, new gaskets and screws in side carbs plus he pit in thermostats that i brought him.
 
he did work on it for a while but it was more or less messing with screws and testing carbs. he said he would charge me 3 hours labor to put the new ones in if i got em lol
 
Just remember...the black bodies are matched to the throttle plates as a complete carburetor assembly.
There are holes in the black bodies that match up with the throttle plates, and the air bleeds in the front change over the early nineties years, as well as the passageway on the side that has the metal plate covering it.

You should assess where the cracks are, and see if they could even contribute to poor idle. My bet is no.

You should be absolutely sure your link and sync is correct, and that the very tiny passages behind the core plug on the throttle body are absolutely clean before you shotgun the carbs, and hope to fix the issue.

The tiny passages behind the core plugs are always overlooked when "cleaning the carbs" as is the tiny brass tube that sticks down into the bowl. Those holes are "hair" sized...very small.

Edit.....you saying he wanted 3 hours labor for thermostats on that looper????? Twenty minute job....
 
no it was 3-4 hours labor for carb cleaning, messing with jets an putting new jet screws in, and then one hour for changing both thermostats. i took boat out and it ran great. he did clean everything in carbs i will check and see if he cleaned the passage behind the core plug. the lines( or cracks) are on the side passageway that has the metal plate covering it that you mentioned. i took the boat out afterward and it idled great and ran much much better. it seems to run fine now. could you tell me what you mean by link and sync?
 
Link and sync is a multi-step procedure where the linkages that move when the throttle is applied are adjusted or synchronized so that the carbs open up and the timing begins to advance at the proper mechanical moment.

The whole system is completely mechanical, and if you open the carbs before the timing has advanced, engine will bog.

So, link and sync is done to adjust everything correctly.

A critical part of the link and sync regarding carbs......all carb butterfiles must be completely closed at idle, AND they must all operate in unison. One side must not be leading the other as they open, for instance. One single butterfly must not be slightly cracked open, and the others closed is another example. So you adjust all that.

Then another adjustment is the WOT stop position. Adjust the WOT stop screw so that all buttterflies are 90* perpendicular to the ventuir bodies at WOT.

Then...on to the timing adjustments.

It is a series of steps to adjust everything for optimum engine performance. Outlined in the factory service manual.

Cracks in the side passage....I wouldn't worry about those. Not a big factor of air leakage for sure, and certainly not worth new "used" carbs to try to fix, especially if the engine is running right. I have seen those cracks, and to me, they just cannot leak enough air to make a difference. If they are like the ones I have seen, they are not even "open"...they are a closed crack with no visible gap. Now, if they are gapped open.....that is a different issue.
 
ya they are not open cracks and it is running good now so far... I do know that he adjusted linkage and timing back to factory setting, I had found out that the guy that owned the boat before me had the timing very advanced so rpms were way high at idle, i assume that is bad for lower unit gears. It idles very quietly now and starts up every time,I guess I will just run it a few times and see what happens. When you say "open the carbs before timing has advance" are u saying that when you start the motor and the carbs open before the timing advances the engine will not start? I am a new boat owner so this is all very helpful. Also I am assuming all the butterflies are simultaneously opening together and are closed at idle. quiet idle would point to all being closed in idle right? As far as the cracks the mechaninc was not happy with omc for making plastic carb bodies and just had his opinions i guess lol, but they are very faint lines, like you took a knife and barely ran it down the side of the body. I will take your advice and I very much aprreciate it!! wish u lived in dallas lol
 
I think you are Ok now.

If you study the linkage....and slowly move it thru it's travel (engine off), you will see that the carbs begin to open, yet on another part of the linkage (under the flywheel, right side) the timer base begins to move too.

All that has to be synchronized to happen at just the right time.

Generally, best cold starting occurs when the timing is advanced, carbs are open very slightly, and you have primed (choked) the heck out of it by pressing the key in. Each engine is different, tho. Warm starting, none of that should be needed.

You don't need to assume that the butterflies are closed at idle and that they operate in unison....just look for yourself.
You can inspect them very easily....get a flashlight, and operate the butterflies at the top where the cam roller touches the cam. You will see it if you study that linkage.

But, unless you know what you are doing, don't make any adjustments.

Don't worry about those little hair cracks...I see them just like you describe all the time. If they open up, different story.
 
boat ran good yesterday first few hours, then at the end the primer would contract and get sucked in and i could not go more than half speed, seemed like it wasn't getting enough gas to go faster\. ever heard of the primer contracting on its own and staying half squeezed? maybe some suction some where?. i turned boat off opened gas cap and put back on then it ran better. would that be minor or major?


I think you are Ok now.

If you study the linkage....and slowly move it thru it's travel (engine off), you will see that the carbs begin to open, yet on another part of the linkage (under the flywheel, right side) the timer base begins to move too.

All that has to be synchronized to happen at just the right time.

Generally, best cold starting occurs when the timing is advanced, carbs are open very slightly, and you have primed (choked) the heck out of it by pressing the key in. Each engine is different, tho. Warm starting, none of that should be needed.

You don't need to assume that the butterflies are closed at idle and that they operate in unison....just look for yourself.
You can inspect them very easily....get a flashlight, and operate the butterflies at the top where the cam roller touches the cam. You will see it if you study that linkage.

But, unless you know what you are doing, don't make any adjustments.

Don't worry about those little hair cracks...I see them just like you describe all the time. If they open up, different story.
 
Your fuel pump is working very well !------Trouble is in the fuel line from the primer bulb to the tank .-----Hose / fittings or pick-up screen is plugged and therefor the bulb collapses.
 
Your fuel pump is working very well !------Trouble is in the fuel line from the primer bulb to the tank .-----Hose / fittings or pick-up screen is plugged and therefor the bulb collapses.

it is working good even with the boat not getting faster when i throttle all the way??
 
Please do not question the advice here.------------The bulb collapsing clearly indicates blockage in the bulb , hose to the tank or in the tank itself.-------If you do not want to check this out , then you may be stranded on one of your next trips out.
 
Please do not question the advice here.------------The bulb collapsing clearly indicates blockage in the bulb , hose to the tank or in the tank itself.-------If you do not want to check this out , then you may be stranded on one of your next trips out.


my apologies. can i just undo the clamps on the hose line? to check it? any tips on trouble shooting would be great. i thank you all for you info!
 
Think about it busta.....think.....

The fuel pump is pulling fuel from the tank, thru the bulb. The bulb flattens out....
That means the fuel pump is sucking hard, hard enought to flatten the bulb. Fuel pump is working good.

There is a blockage somewhere between the bulb and the tank, and I mean even in the innards of the tank, like the pickup itself....anti siphon valve, bulb itself.....anything in the incoming fuel line.

You have to make that incoming fuel line perfectly clear with no blockage.

EDIT: Again....think. If you loosen any clamps, you will start sucking air instead of fuel. No good.

What happens when you are sucking on a straw, and the straw gets a split in it above the level of the Coke?
You suck more air than Coke....
 
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Think about it busta.....think.....

The fuel pump is pulling fuel from the tank, thru the bulb. The bulb flattens out....
That means the fuel pump is sucking hard, hard enought to flatten the bulb. Fuel pump is working good.

There is a blockage somewhere between the bulb and the tank, and I mean even in the innards of the tank, like the pickup itself....anti siphon valve, bulb itself.....anything in the incoming fuel line.

You have to make that incoming fuel line perfectly clear with no blockage.

EDIT: Again....think. If you loosen any clamps, you will start sucking air instead of fuel. No good.

What happens when you are sucking on a straw, and the straw gets a split in it above the level of the Coke?
You suck more air than Coke....

lol man i feel stupid . well looks like ill just get the mechanic to go from primer to tank and get it fixed. ready to enjoy it lol
 
Naw naw...man don't say that....I am just trying to get you to totally understand what and how the thing works.

You should try a separate tank and fuel line first.
If you can disconnect the incoming fuel line right at the primer bulb, just hook a length of hose there, and stick it down into a five gallon gas can THAT HAS THE PROPER PRE-MIX FUEL in it. In fact, regardless of the VRO oiling status, just go ahead and use 50-1 pre mixed gas. You will not hurt anything.

So, run it with that gas can/hose. Pay attention to the feel of the primer bulb as you pump it up. Does it feel better? Can you hear the fuel swishing thru it, and can you hear the fuel swishing into the carb bowls as they fill up? Can you pump it up and have it get firm and stay firm? That is what you want.

If you have a restriction in the tank, and the primer bulb is good, the primer bulb itself may not pump up right. It may take quite a while for it to pull fuel to the engine, it might just not work at all.

It will help you immensely in the future if you are very aware of your engine, how it sounds, what the normal starting process is...etc. If anything changes, you can be right on top of it.
 
so i noticed that when i pumped the primer it would put gas in the fuel filter then when i released the primer gas would pull back out of the fuel filter. this is obviously not right. Also if there is a small very slow drip at bottom of fuel pump (part 14 on motor parts grid 0435560) that would not cause the vacuum in the primer would it? and would that small slow drip mean i just need the whole new pump? when i say small slow leak i mean a few drops every now and then. I can not seem to find a replacement part for the cap or front of the assymbly where the drop is coming from. i would have to by a whole new fuel pump to stop this drip i think
 
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Hey guys......will a 130 run on the older style "house" shaped pulse pumps? Does that pump have enough volume for a 130 looper? Just so he doesn't have to buy a new OMS pump if he wants to switch...

Basic rule.....no leaks. No air leaks, no gas leaks.

You might be able to tighten the torx screws on the front AND on the back of the pump to stop the leak.
Tighten them evenly tho.
 
so primer bulb issue is fixed now. Last issue:

1: starts up fine and idles good

2 :runs to top speed and good for a while

3 : after a while it wont go as fast on full throttle and seems to be sputtering, one mechanic says change carbs cus there is a foul out at top speed even though plugs are good. He also says maybe too much oil from oil injection could do this.

another mechanic( the one that i paid 700 to clean current carbs replace thermostats, and replace some of those small brass screws in the carbs the ones that are like 31's or something, he changed them to a smaller number to get it running richer i guess that is what he did to fix idle issue. He is also the one that said the little hair lines on the side of the carb are a big problem.) anyway this mechanic said that replacing the carbs with the same tyoe of carb cus they are plastic is just replacing junk with junk. He said he would charge me 150 to take him to the lake and show him what it was doing and then he said it could be an electricle issue or something. it runs good then when it gets going after thirty minutes or an hour the throttle all the way forward only produces half the speed and the engine sputters and makes a shaking sound, now the engine at half throttle runs fine all the time though. I am very confused and have spent quite a bit already, any ideas?
 
Sound like SLOW mode. After it warms up...actually overheats....
You describe sputter and shakling ...is it at or around 2500 RPM?



If so, be sure the engine is not overheating....pull the cowl off, and touch the tops of the heads.....if too hot to hold your hand there....overheat.

Normally, you should be able to hold your hand at the tops of the heads for two to three seconds before it gets uncomfortable.

If it is overheating, gotta look at why....most probable cause is the water pump.
Thermostats next, then possibly a water restriction inside the engine somewhere....

Then....as if that wasn't enough....debug why the overheat alarm is not going off. It should.

You are stuck with plastic carbs....get used to it. There is no possible substitute.

Be careful. Be prepared for it to be hot.
 
had thermostats replaced already. not sure about rpms dang boat has no meter for that . he said it wasnt overheating when he worked on carbs each head was at 150 to 160degrees on his heat reader plus good water stream comes out valve on back bottom of motor. he said it might be stator or electric issue. i agree with moving on from carbs though. i can runt it at 15mph all dang day which aint bad cus its a pontoon fish party boat, but would be nice to get it back up to 35 i think im going to a new mechanic if this guy charges me 130 or so, ive already paid 1200.oo for minor tune up, water pump, and carb cleaning/tinkering....expensive for still having issues imo ...unless im wrong
 
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