Outboard - No Start

My boat has been sitting for awhile but, after I cleaned out the mounted fuel bowl, I never could get it restarted. Just wondering what simple thing I'm not doing or what stupid thing I did. Any suggestions would be very appreciated. I want to make an attempt to fix it myself before I take it in to the shop.

BTW, I am new to the forum and very exicited about being here. Should have join along time ago....

Kyburzca (Randy) - Hansville, WA (Point No Point)

Well, WELCOME ABOARD the forum Randy! I hope someone here can help you with your problem.
We need more info though. What type and year is your outboard? If at all possible, it is good to include the frame number if it is a Honda. That is usually located down on the port side of the swivel mount where you clamp the motor to the boat. Or, if it is an older engine it is sometimes on the swivel tube itself.

Was the outboard running OK when you last put it away? When was the last time it had a set of new spark plugs installed? Are you using new FRESH gasoline? VERY important. Old gas causes more problems than not. Even if the gas is only a couple of months old, dump it into the family grocery hauler and give the boat a fresh drink. That's a start and we'll be standing by to see how you respond.

Gday.

Thanks jgmo,

I should have left more info. It's a 2006 Honda 50hp outboard (4 stroke) on a Harbercraft aluminum. I'll have to get the frame number (FN) tonight after I get home. Old gas is definitely a potential problem. I have at least a half a tank to somehow purge and replace (that'll be my next question). It's was running fine. I have not replaced sparks plugs since it did'n't seem to need them. It was starting to run a little rough when trolling with the big motor. Anyway.....I'll get the FN and post it tonight.

Thanks jgmo!

Hey Jgmo,

Not sure if this is the frame number or not. I have one that is stamped or raised of "ZW4S" and one other stamped on a label plate of "BAZS 6600105" which I'm sure is a model number and serial number. The first number was on the starboard side though. I'll go look again.

Randy

Hi Randy,

I think the BAZS 6600105 is the number you will need for someone like hondadude to be able to give you "precise advice".

When you say you cleaned out the "mounted fuel bowl" I'm assuming you are referring to a fuel filter or water separator on, or in, the transom? If so, that's a good start.

But, it would be best if you could try and run the outboard from a separate, portable tank and hose with fresh fuel. This would quickly tell you if it is strictly an on board bad gas problem or if the issue is with the engine itself.

If your boat has a permanent, in hull gas tank, you can siphon most of the fuel out using an inexpensive ball siphon hose sold at Wal-Mart or most truck stops.

If you can't get the engine to fire with the portable gas tank, then it gets more complicated quickly.

I would then replace the plugs and see what happens.

NOTE: when testing a no start, try not to crank the engine excessively. Try the fresh gas, pumping up the primer bulb until hard, then crank no more that 15 to 20 seconds. If it doesn't fire, wait a minute or two then try cranking 15 seconds again. If it still doesn't fire, STOP!

Continuing to crank is futile and will only hurt the battery and overheat the starter motor. Also, if it IS getting gas but is not sparking, it will flood the engine and dilute the engine oil.

When you stop cranking, you should be prepared to take one or more spark plugs out immediately and examine them. If they are wet with gas, you have a no spark issue. If they are dry, then you most likely have carburetor problems and you will have to decide what action to take from there.

Good luck.

Super....thanks, jgmo,

This all sounds logical and now I have a plan of attack. My first issue will be to get a new interstate deep cycle battery since I tested mine and it's DEAD. I have a feeling the no start problem isn't the motor but, rather the bad or no gas getting to it. Is there any thing to know about the operation of the fuel filter/separator in my transome? I took a picture of it and the top of the onboard gas tank. How is the gas sucked from the fuel bowl? Fuel pump? So, I assume the primer bulb pulls gas from the fuel separator to the motor? What would cause no gas to the engine or the engine not to start. I guess that's the million dollar question. Just listening to myself and it sure sounds like it's a bad gas issue....huh! Anyway, I'll stick with the plan. Thanks again. I'll get back with the results.

Kyburzca (Randy)

Well, I don't see the pictures. Did you upload them?

Anyway, They are usually simple devices and just need to be emptied and cleaned regularly before water (all fuel has water in it) gets a chance to build up and get sucked in to your engine.

Yes, if your fuel system plumbing is air tight, your fuel pump moves the fuel from that "bowl" to the carbs. The primer bulb is there to get the process going and feed the pump prior to engine start. Those primer bulbs are a big source of headache for the boat owner as they go bad frequently. It has to be installed a certain way and it has to stay "hard" or you will lose prime to the engine.

But, you are correct, stay with the plan and get things "cleaned up", fuel wise, and you will be at a better starting point for figuring out the problem. It does you no good at all to get gas to the engine if it is bad gas and it can actually cause you all sorts of grief and expense.

I'm hoping you were in the habit of draining or, at least, running the carbs out of fuel before putting the boat up. If not, and you let her sit for awhile with the old gas in the carburetors that might not bode well for our efforts. The Honda carburetor is a bit "finicky" when it comes to keeping it clean.

The serial number that you posted is not a valid USA serial number. You may want to recheck the digits. The four letters are ok.

If you have bad fuel, once you get a good clean tank and fuel, you should flush each carburetor, by opening the screw in the bowl on the bottom of each carburetor. See #8 http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2006/BF50A6 LRTA /CARBURETOR/parts.html

You just have to unscrew it. You do not have to take it out. The fuel will come out the nipple at the left side of the carburators.

Mike

......

The label plate says made in Japan. Is that why the numbers aren't valid? Thanks for the input on draining the carbs. I will be working through this as soon as I pick up my battery in the next day or so.

Kyburzca

All of the Hondas at this time are made in Japan. You may have read the numbers wrong. The first four letters are good. You wrote BAZS 6600105...if you are right on the 2006, the number would be more like BAZS 3600105.

Hopefully, your flushing and fresh fuel are successful.

Mike

I'll check the numbers again. Actually, I took a picture of the label plate. Now here's beginner question...How can I upload my pics?

Just looked at the picture I took and now looks like: "BAZS 8600105"

Hi Kyburzca,
Try this:
Click the "Go Advanced" button at the bottom of the "Quick Reply" (this) box. When that comes up, scroll down past the smiley faces to the "Additional Options" box and select "Manage Attachments"


In that pop up click on "Add Files" and then "Select Files" to see your folders.

That's what I did to up load this photo and I did it because I had not tried it before and thought trying to answer your question might be a good exercise.

And.... YES FOLKS! I know it's not OYSTER SILVER

I attempted to upload some pictures but, maybe there are too large. Must be a limit. At any rate, I picked up my new Interstate deep cylce marine-RV battery but, didn't get a chance to install it. Goofed around too much and got home late. So, the plan will be drain the carb(s) and hook up my portable tank with fresh gas. I bet it will run. Any bets not? Hopefully, I'm correct. I looked for a manual syphon pump at Walmart with no luck. Well, the one they did have had a very small line on it. It would take me into next year to drain the tank. So, I will keep looking. Thanks to you all for your help and input for this issue. more on this tomorrow...

kyburzca

Not sure if this worked but, it look like they loaded. These are pics of the top of my onboard gas tank and mounted gas filter/separator.

Kyburzca

Finally, today I'll hook up the new battery. I have a portable tank with FRESH gas staged and ready. I guess I still need to drain the residual fuel from the carb(s) and then see if this motor is going to start. More to follow today.

Kyburzca

Battery is in, portable tank is hooked up, ordered a gas syphon pump from Amazon today. The motor started right up and after letting it warm up, it ran ROUGH and died. Runs fine under choke conditions, but, I certainly won't be trolling on the big motor. I pulled the plugs and they all look about the same (slightly wet from fuel and black coated lightly carboned). What should I be looking for if they are in good condition??? If I remember right, this is exactly why I disassembled the fuel fllter and cleaned it out was due to it running rough. After cleaning the filter, the motor wouldn't start from the on board tank. I suppose I should start with NEW Spark PLUGS?? So....I still have TWO issues. It won't start from the main onboard fuel tank and when I do have it running (from the portable tank), it runs ROUGH.

Kyburzca (Randy)

Hope this picture is clear enough to see the condition of the plugs from my outboard.

To All Who Helped. Sorrry I wore out my welcome on this thread but, I do want to close the loop. I figured out the no gas from the main tank and no start problem. I blew into the gas line from where the primer bulb attaches to the fuel filter. Air was free flowing. I placed my hand around the bottom of the fuel bowl and felt are escaping. Turned the drain knob in an unscrewing motion and the air stopped. This is why I was not getting gas when priming the engine. it could not get suction. Duh!!! Operator ERROR.

Thanks...

Kyburzca

Well, I don't think you wore out your welcome. You had a problem and worked through it and came up with a solution. That's what we're all here for! Congratulations on getting it solved and thanks for the honest feedback about what happened.

Looking at your spark plug though, it looks to be a bit oil fouled. Probably because you troll. I would change them out if it were mine and then monitor how long they take to get that way. If you don't run the engine hard at least once during each outing then maybe you should start doing that to keep carbon from building up in the combustion chamber. Sea Foam added to your gas will also help keep the deposits from forming and there are other methods for decarboning the valves and pistons more quickly.

Glad you're back fishing instead of wrenching.

Ditto jgmo's remarks. A couple of posts back, you said it ran good if the choke was pulled out. Running it with the choke out will blacken those plugs. It also means that if you have to run it with the choke out, after it is warmed up, then you have gummed up carburetors.

Here's hoping all that went away.

Mike

Well, regardless, I'm happy to know you are all out there still. I am really happy I worked through this and didn't have to take it to the SHOP. I know I still have stuff to do to get it all right. Now that you mentioned it, l have trolled the larger motor a lot. So, I would assume that you are correct, Mike. I have an 8hp Honda with less than one hour on it. I'm going to sell/trade it for a smaller trolling motor and put on a trolling bracket. I will leave the trolling to the smaller motor. BTW Jgmo, I replaced the spark plugs and it idles good now. Okay, so...I will finish up doing the things I need to do and get back to all. Again, thanks much for all the HELP.

Kyburzca

Hi all...

This is a follow up on my progress on the "no start" issue with my 50hp Honda main motor. After I determined the motor was running fine, it ran rough at idle. I ran some injector/carb cleaner via my portable tank and it now seems to be idling much better. """I want to thank you all again for your help with this....BTW." At any rate, I still continued to have no gas from the main take to the motor. I syphoned all of the old gas out and replaced with new. I disassembled the fuel/water separator and checked the lower O'ring and the top gasket, then reassembled to ensure no air leaks. Finally got fuel to the fuel filter/water separator and to the motor. Ran fine except for the idle problem. Now after running injector cleaner through, it's running fine, or better anyway. Access to all of your knowledge is sure a good thing. Thanks...

Randy