2000 bf130 overheat top cylinder, water in oil..

So I hung a "good" used bf130 1000 hrs and used it about 15hrs last yr.. intermittantly the alarm would go off, prev guy had a piece of cooton in it and said it was a sensor gone bad. so i used it..
I did notice last year when i checked it seemed i overfilled it with oil ,didnt think much of it. this year on spring prep and test run it fired up but went in to kickdon mode after about a min. /i tested temp w laser, 110 at lower cyl on up to about 190 at top. checked tstat, good, pops at about 175 . pisser works but was clogged at the T , fixed that,. i took top temp sensor out , ran motor water gushed out. reinstalled it, still top cyl is hot and will shut down. take sender wire off, and motor will run past a minute no prob, but it does get hot. new impeller last year seems to be getting alot of flow. somebody said the head gasket could be blowing pressure into water keeping it from getting to top of motor..?
ideas. ? thanks.
how hard is it to replace the head gasket on the water? im far from any ramp and no honda guy in sight for 100 miles.

I would not want to try to remove the head over water....too many parts to drop into the water.

You should at least do a compression test on each cylinder before you go any farther. If you have a blown head gasket, it should show up there.

If all cylinders are ok, then before you pull the head, I would pull the water jacket cover (by the thermostat) and see if the relief valve #1 is stuck open due to salt, corrosion, etc. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2003/BF130A3 LA /THERMOSTAT/parts.html

Is your oil milky or is the volume increasing? If it is just the volume increasing, then it may be fuel and not water.

Mike

ill do the compression test next , I cleaned the check valve that has the hose connected to it that drains out the back of the cowling, is that what you referring to ? or do i remove the cover ? this is a 2000 bf130

Thanks

hondadude said:

I would not want to try to remove the head over water....too many parts to drop into the water.

You should at least do a compression test on each cylinder before you go any farther. If you have a blown head gasket, it should show up there.

If all cylinders are ok, then before you pull the head, I would pull the water jacket cover (by the thermostat) and see if the relief valve #1 is stuck open due to salt, corrosion, etc. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2003/BF130A3 LA /THERMOSTAT/parts.html

Is your oil milky or is the volume increasing? If it is just the volume increasing, then it may be fuel and not water.

Mike

Click to expand...

oil is milky like a latte . i can't confirm if it is increasing but it does seem to be.

The milky oil is not good. So it looks like you may be looking for not only the cause of an overheat (assuming that is what the alarm was all about) and the resultant damage (which may be causing the water in the oil).

Back to your last question about the check valve in the flush port.... The flush check valve is important to good cooling, so it is good that you have cleaned that out. There is also a check valve in the side water passage that I pointed out in my previous post. That could be part of or the cause of the overheat. It should not be the origin for the water in the oil.

The overheat could have blown the heat gasket or even worse, warped the head.

When your alarm goes off, does the red overheat light come on? Most likely it does, if you removed the connection to one of the heat sensors and the motor kept running.

Mike

yea the red overheat light comes on after a minute and it goes to kick down mode.. when i take the temp sensor wire off it'll keep running. seems like the top cyl is not getting water . ill check all water journals i can and take compression of cylinders when i get back to the boat..thanks stay tuned

hondadude said:

The milky oil is not good. So it looks like you may be looking for not only the cause of an overheat (assuming that is what the alarm was all about) and the resultant damage (which may be causing the water in the oil).

Back to your last question about the check valve in the flush port.... The flush check valve is important to good cooling, so it is good that you have cleaned that out. There is also a check valve in the side water passage that I pointed out in my previous post. That could be part of or the cause of the overheat. It should not be the origin for the water in the oil.

The overheat could have blown the heat gasket or even worse, warped the head.

When your alarm goes off, does the red overheat light come on? Most likely it does, if you removed the connection to one of the heat sensors and the motor kept running.

Mike

Click to expand...

so im pulling the motor to have the head removed , most signs tend to say head is warped. i have access to a replacement head. now... the challenge is to find someone qualified to do the service... anyone in the MD area I can bring this motor to that can handle the job? ?I asked one dealer and I was floored on the $ he wanted. please contact me if you are willing and able and familiar to tackle this for a cash deal. thanks.

Hope you find someone to do the work. The good news is...you do not have to remove the whole powerhead to remove the head.

Mike

Where in Maryland? There is an excellent dealer in Farmham, VA at Whelan's Marina on the Rappahannock. Excellent work and reasonable prices. If you are anywhere near the 301 Bridge on the Eastern Shore, it might be worth your while to call them. Talk to Keith Whelan.

sure nuff water was in cyl #2 .. now Im wondering if its able to just have a new head put on ..the cyl wall is a bit rough in spots ..can I hone it out? I already ran a scotchbrite over it and this is what I see.. the spots are still felt .texture, so it def needs to be honed if thats ok to do..?