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Honda 20hp 2006

Flyman

New member
Hi Folks
My 20 hp is acting up hard starting and coughing when the throttle is increased quickly I checked the CDI unit and I could not see any movment in the plunger ohms meter was proper. I also noticed air bubbles in th fuel filter when I reved the engine. Once the engine is warmed up it startes fine. I tried this with back up tank and hose with no difference. Beside replacing the CDI is there any other part I should be ordering?

Thanks Grant
 
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I do not understand what you checked on the CDI. What is a CDI plunger? It would be very unusual for the CDI to be the problem in starting.

Is this motor pull start or electric start? The starting mechanism is a little different in each.

Most likely, you starting circuit in the carburetor is clogged and needs to be cleaned. Also, make sure that the accelerator pump is moving freely ...it is a lever driving a small shiny vertical pin going through a little rubber bellows on the side of the carburetor. It is pushed down when you accelerate from an idle. You should also be able to push it down with you finger to see if it moves freely.

You will need to remove the carburetor, disassemble and clean the passages.

Mike
 
Thanks for the reply Mike I ment to say the Electrothermo Valve. I have a Clymer shop manual an read the diagram wrong. The motor is electric start with the pull start option.

Thanks again
Grant
 
Hi Flyman,
The "Electrothermo Valve" valve or "auto choke" has to be removed from the carburetor and voltage applied to test it. Are you doing that? The procedure is to remove it, apply 12 volts and then wait for 1 to 2 minutes and watch the pintle extend.


It would be EXTREMELY rare for it to cause a hard start problem. If it were to fail electrically, the engine would tend to start just fine but then not run very well after warned up because it would be too rich. It is possible for the valve to mechanically hang up in the "lean" mode but I have personally never seen this. I have worked on these 20s for over 5 years and I have still not used the original replacement auto-choke I purchased for stock.

I would tend to think Mike is right about the passages in the carb needing cleaning. Before you do anything else though, try this:

Refer to the parts page link below. Item # 2 tends to cause me quite a few problems if it is not removed and emptied out periodically. It is called a fuel chamber or "reservoir" but tends to act as a fuel/water separator. When it gets enough water in the chamber, it can cause a whole host of problems. Simply take the fuel lines off, slip the holder off of the oil dipstick and turn that puppy upside down and shake it until all the liquid comes out then reinstall and see if she doesn't start a bit better. Make the cleaning of this "device" one of your "maintenance chores". Also, get rid of the Clymer shop manual and get a Helm Inc manual if you are serious about doing your own work. Clymer, Seloc, Haynes and others are not worth much and full of erroneous information.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2006/BF20D6 SHA /FUEL PUMP/parts.html

Good luck.
 
The first thing to do is to clean the carburetor properly.------------When the fuel that we have today sits in these carburetors the result is plugged passageways and jets.-Run fuel out of these carburetors if motor is going to sit for more than a week.
 
Hi Flyman,
The "Electrothermo Valve" valve or "auto choke" has to be removed from the carburetor and voltage applied to test it. Are you doing that? The procedure is to remove it, apply 12 volts and then wait for 1 to 2 minutes and watch the pintle extend.


It would be EXTREMELY rare for it to cause a hard start problem. If it were to fail electrically, the engine would tend to start just fine but then not run very well after warned up because it would be too rich. It is possible for the valve to mechanically hang up in the "lean" mode but I have personally never seen this. I have worked on these 20s for over 5 years and I have still not used the original replacement auto-choke I purchased for stock.

I would tend to think Mike is right about the passages in the carb needing cleaning. Before you do anything else though, try this:

Refer to the parts page link below. Item # 2 tends to cause me quite a few problems if it is not removed and emptied out periodically. It is called a fuel chamber or "reservoir" but tends to act as a fuel/water separator. When it gets enough water in the chamber, it can cause a whole host of problems. Simply take the fuel lines off, slip the holder off of the oil dipstick and turn that puppy upside down and shake it until all the liquid comes out then reinstall and see if she doesn't start a bit better. Make the cleaning of this "device" one of your "maintenance chores". Also, get rid of the Clymer shop manual and get a Helm Inc manual if you are serious about doing your own work. Clymer, Seloc, Haynes and others are not worth much and full of erroneous information.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard%20Engine/2006/BF20D6%20SHA%20/FUEL%20PUMP/parts.html

Good luck.

Yes I did the procedure but maybe I did not keep it on for the full 2 min. I will have a go at the recomendation tonight.

Thanks to all for the advice.

Grant
 
I cleaned out the fuel chamber it started better but soon began to struggle and die it would start if I turned the throttle back and forth and eventually I am able to get it to run fine pumping the ball may have helped a bit. Once warmed up started and idled fine.
What parts are requred to have on hand to remove/replace and clean the carb?

On the good side I did land a couple of nice trout when I ran up river to work the engine.

Grant
 
Ahhh, FRESH river trout! Yummy!

Refer to the parts illustration below and here are my suggestions:

First, yes, recheck your bystart valve to verify proper operation. My guess is it is Ok but, you never know.

To do a THOROUGH job of cleaning and servicing the carb, I would have on hand before beginning;

item # 1, gasket set...
item #22 times 2 gasket..
item #4, screw set...
item # 14 plunger set, accelerator...
item # 12 cap...
and...
item # 18, jet set.

You can get by without item #12 if yours is not torn and you can clean and reuse item #18 although I will warn you that getting it COMPLETELY clean can sometimes be almost impossible and they have a tendency to crack. I have learned to just spend the money.

But, the real secret to putting that carburetor back on your engine and having it purr like a new one is what racerone and Mike have already said.... small passages. You need to disassemble the carburetor and really study how the fuel and air travel through the float chamber, accelerator pump passages, idle mix passage and the main jet passage.

One or more of us can walk you through the process when you're ready to rock. The only tools you'll need are a couple of appropriate screw drivers and some good cleaning solution. A few strands of copper wire to push through the venturi orifices is also handy.

While a sonic parts cleaner is nice ( I finally broke down and bought one) I've done MANY of these using approximately one can of WD-40 along with one can of spray carb cleaner or brake kleen. The important thing is that your spray cans have the little plastic spray "straw" to manipulate up into the nooks and crannies.

Let us know what you decide to do.




http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...006/BF20D6 LRTA /CARBURETOR (AUTO)/parts.html
 
Hello,
Salutation to this one of the forum site.
Myself Jyaky Petter from the nation of India
at this point we are going away to thrash out in the automobile discussion
We can argue many kind of debate from the forum
We not only discuss but also dig up a lot more knowledge from
Various Google experts.
Thank you………………………………………………………..
…………………………………………………
…………………………………..

2013 MERCEDES BENZ SL-CLASS
 
From the way discribed your starting by twisting the throttle, the accelerator pump is working ok and that circuit is probably pretty good. When you twisted the throttle, you operated the accelerator pump, which then shot fuel directly into the throat of the carburetor. This can get you going, until you fix it properly.

Most likely location of clog is in the bowl passage that feeds the long skinny tube up to the bystarter. There evidently, is no fuel getting up the tube. As Jimmy has said in the past, the bystarter is probably ok, since it keeps its fuel/air passage open at start (giving the engine extra fuel - thus the higher idle speed) and then slowly closes down (thus slowing the engine down to proper idle).

Mike
 
Thanks for all the pointers guys I will order the parts It will take a couple weeks to get up to here in BC in the meantime I will be fishing upstream of the house. hope fully my heavy duty mechanic fishing partner will give me a hand doing the job.

Thanks

Grant
 
Hi Guys I have the carb all apart but I notice that the Eletrothermel valve has a black o-ring seal at the plunger pin it is all disinigrated could that have been part of my problem?

Thanks
Grant
 
I am not sure exactly what o ring you are talking about. i will have to look at one to give you an answer. in general, it is the very tip of the device that shuts down the flow of fuel...as long as the plunger gets longer as the engine runs.

The bad news is....it is a couple of days before I can check one out at work....
The good news is ....it is a couple of days before I go back to work.

Mike
 
The o ring is about 1/8" it may have been a washer as it fits into a flat space with a shoulder I cut an O ring down to size at it seems work. The engine is running pretty good a bit rough at slow idyle but no missing and no stalling the quick throtlle cough is gone. I will put it back on the river tomorrow and see how she runs under load.

So this was the first carb job I have done it took about 4 hours as the needle valve snapped off and I had to drill it out I also needed a gasket at the front of the carb but I manged to use the old one for now. The parts only took a few days to get here and better priced than I can get here in BC if I could even find a Honda dealer within 600 Km.

Thanks for alll the help

Grant
 
Yeah, I think that Oring is more of a "dust" seal for the mounting boss of the thermovalve than anything else. I'm not sure how it would effect the engine if it were missing but...may have been a factor. Funny you didn't notice it was bad when you were testing the valve previously.

The needle valve is designed to snap off at the head if forced and that is what I usually do to get them out quickly and easily. That's why I told you to have one on hand. Completely unnecessary to have to drill one out but you didn't ask about removal.

My apologies for telling you to buy two of item #22. I meant Item #19 and, had I gotten that correct, you would have already had your mounting gasket. So much for the veracity and accuracy of free internet advice.
 
The dust ring is still there it is about 1 1/2" dia and shows up on the parts list the small oring/seal does not show up as a part

Why would they design the needle valve needle valve to snap off like that once I saw that it moved it came out with a pair of twezzers.

Apologies accepted but I should have talked to the parts people maybe they would have put together a kit.

Thank guys

It feels good to be back on the water!

Grant
 
Hi, after reading a few different forums on 20 starting issues, this thread you guys have made seems to be the best by far.

I have a 2006 honda 20 with the electric choke that is causing me all of these same problems. It ran perfectly for 5 years but then last summer started having difficulty starting and stalling repeatedly until it warmed up. then it would run fine. i took the carburetor apart this spring and cleaned out a bit of junk in the bowl, put it back together and no improvement. so i figured it was time perhaps for a new carburetor and ordered one online since the price was reasonable. installed it, and it ran fine in my shed. 2 weeks later, i launched the boat and it would not start at all without starting fluid. it will start, run for a minute or so and then stall and then require starting fluid. if i can get it to increase rpm, it will run ok, but then stall when back to idle. assuming i had stale fuel, i replaced all the fuel in the tank and hose and then pumped some fuel with the primer bulb to replace any old fuel in the fuel pump and lines, etc. I took the carburetor apart and found a small amount of goo in the bowl, so cleaned that out. blew out the chambers/passages i could identify with compressed air. the accelerator pump mechanism seems to be fine although i have not removed that very small screw holding part of it, installed new plugs since they were original. put back together, but no improvement at all.

after reading this string of responses, perhaps the fuel chamber has something in it causing the problem. I ordered and just received the shop manual so hopefully that will provide some additional help because i am stuck. Btw, is the needle valve you speak of underneath that screw with the limiting cog that only allows it to run a quarter turn or so? how does one remove that?

i've never had an outboard cause me such trouble and i am usually successful at fixing them, so am stymied by this one. can you suggest what to try next? cussing doesn't seem to be helping either. thanks, Don
 
Hi Don,

Sorry to hear you're having these problems. I'm also sorry to hear that you are using starting fluid on this fine engine. I physically flinched each time I read "used starting fluid". I absolutely hate the stuff. It really can't be used without causing some damage.

Whereas gasoline and other motor fuels ignite and create what is known as a "flame front" that burns evenly and builds pressure in the combustion chamber, starting fluid, or ether, is much more volatile and is more like an explosion when it ignites. And, as with any explosion, the resultant violence usually removes a bit of metal close to the point of ignition.

Just a few applications of this stuff can ruin an engine and turn it into an "ether baby" making it act much like a drug addict that needs more and more of the stuff to get going. Anyway, that's my speech, now back to your problem.

It does sound as if you still have carburetor problems and that is what I will focus on here. You seem to be convinced that's what it is. But, you might also have an ignition problem causing your hard start. It is always a good idea to use fresh plugs and verify spark when problems like this arise. The fact that it runs after a bit of coaxing does seem to indicate a fuel issue.

I have actually taken a brand new float chamber out of the sealed plastic bag it came in from Honda and found casting sand packed in the passages at the bottom of the bowl! Sad but true. I very carefully go over new parts and clean them prior to installation after that fiasco. Perhaps something similar has happened to you with your new carb.

Do you have any idea what caused or where the "goo" you found came from?

Don't worry too much about the accelerator pump piston. If it depresses and then returns, it is ok. What you need to focus on is the passage in the body of the carb that it feeds. You may need to remove that tiny screw to decipher how that pump piston feeds the carb. but an easy way to tell is, with the float chamber in hand, supply some WD-40 or carb spray to the pump cavity and depress the piston with a small screwdriver. The orifice that the liquid comes out of will match a passage in the main body. Use a can of carb spray and it's little straw and BLAST that passage. You should get a good shot of spray from the jet orifice (if you removed the jet set) and the main and intermediate orifices at the top of the carb throat just behind the throttle plate. I use a pocket screwdriver wedged in the throttle shaft linkage to hold the plate open so all three orifices can be seen. The idle, the intermediate (transition) and the high speed orifices are in a little triangle at the top of the carb throat.

Yes, the idle screw needle valve is under that plastic limiter cap. I usually just snap it off and get busy. If you snap off the limiter, you will usually also snap off the slotted head of the needle valve with it. I use a very sharp dental pick to grab the smooth outer edge of the needle valve screw and rotate it counter clockwise to remove it. It is a pain to get out but once it is, you can file or cut a slot in the head and reuse it. I just use a new needle. THIS IS THE ONLY WAY TO COMPLETELY CLEAN THE CARB! If you don't remove the idle screw and get that passage flushed out, you will always have problems.

To flush and BACKFLUSH all the passages so that they are reliably clean, you need to hold your fingers over passages and plug them as you are spraying others. The enrichment passage that goes to the bystarter needs to be cleaned as well and it's the same deal. All of these passages are interconnected with one another and you need to plug and spray in one combination and in one direction and then plug and spray in a different combination and in the other direction to get them clean.

For example; if you stick the carb spray straw up into the cavity of the carb body where the jet set is inserted and hold your fingers over the passage for the accelerator pump AND the cavity for the idle mixture screw, you should get a good 6 to 10 foot stream of fluid out the back side of the carb throat if you have the throttle plate propped open. If not, then place the tip of the straw over each of the three orifices, one at a time and backflush. It can take several attempts and two or three cans of carb spray with a very dirty carb.

Yes, the passages at the bottom of the float chamber need to be clear too. Make sure a small strand of copper wire can be inserted all the way through each passage from one end to the other. One is just the drain but there is a vacuum break passage and the accelerator feed passage that are both critical.

I predict that you didn't need a new carb so hang on to your old one for a spare.

Now, after I wrote all that garbage, I want you to do one thing first before doing anything else.

Refer to the parts page link below and look at items #2 and 3. Take that thing off and shake all the liquid out of it and wash it out with fresh gasoline. While you have it off, briefly crank the engine and make sure your fuel pump is delivering fuel. Put that fuel chamber back on and see if it doesn't start better. If it does, you're done. If not refer to the verbiage above and good luck.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2006/BF20D6 SRTA /FUEL PUMP/parts.html
 
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I am still getting surging at low RPM do need to adjust the needle valve or did I do somthing wrong or is it that Eletrothermel valve? Runs Great wide open and starts every time.,

Grant
 
Flyman,

I thought that you removed the needle valve and cleaned that passage. Is that right? Did you get it "gushing" clean?

Back and forth with the carb straw. First through main jet passage with idle adjustment hole plugged with finger then back through idle orifice (aim carefully!) with finger plugging idle adjust hole so that it gushes out main jet passage. Back and forth, back and forth.

Although, you could have an intake leak at that gasket you were forced to reuse.
 
Yes that is correct I cleaned every hole and had it gushing out, it seemed much better tonight It actually seem to be running faster

If I was getting an intake leak would it cause any damage?

Grant
 
Well, I don't want to cause any undue alarm but intake leaks are never good. They usually cause the engine to run lean, to one degree or another, depending on the severity of the leak. An engine that is run too lean on a hot day can have extremely elevated combustion chamber temperatures and can be damaged.

I have seen holes burned through the tops of pistons on engines with the ignition timing over advanced thus leaning them out but never from an intake leak. So, I would think that it would take a very big leak and a really hot day but the possibility is always there.

How far out did you set the idle mixture screw?
 
I presume you mean the needle valve screw I had the engine idling and turned the screw until the RPM seemed a bit faster than it was before a bit on the high side.

Grant
 
Try lightly bottoming it out and then back it out 1 and 3/4 turns. Then start the engine and back it out a little farther to try and obtain the smoothest idle or something you're happy with. Usually no more than 2 and 1/2 turns out. If it doesn't respond positively doing that then the idle mix is not your problem.
 
Let's see...did you glue the little chrome limiter cap on to the new needle valve? If you did, then you will have to get that off or, yes, you will probably snap the head off of the needle valve. If you glued it on with Loc-Tite as the book says, then you can get it off by heating it with a soldering iron to break the bond. But, I broke a needle valve trying to get one off like this so be careful.

If you left the limiter cap off (recommended) then you just need to GENTLY screw the valve in until it stops/offers slight additional resistance. If you are careful, it will not snap off. Then back it out as stated before. If that doesn't get her running better then there are some other possibilities for why you're having problems.

If you did not take GREAT CARE when putting the JET SET back in, you may have pinched or rolled the tiny oring that holds it in the main passage. If you did not use a NEW oring, it WILL definitely be leaking. That oring delicate and is critical and must be replaced anytime the Jet is removed. Even if you are just going in there for a look.

The same thing sometimes happens with the idle mixture needle valve oring. It can be damaged during installation and it will cause running problems. You may have to go back in and check these two items.

Go back and read my reply to Don, eight posts up on this thread, and make sure you did that, or something similar, to get the carb cleaned. ESPECIALLY the part about the accelerator pump passages. If not, then it may take another shot. It took me many tries to figure out how to clean these little suckers so that they work reliably every time. I wouldn't expect anyone but the most naturally talented "gear head" to get one of these carbs cleaned and reassembled correctly the first time around. It's a pain but gets easier each time you take it off. And, you learn a little more every time you try. DON"T GIVE UP!

Other than that, you may have a good point about that BY STARTER valve sealing up all the way. It sounds as if you did the right thing but who knows? You may want to go back and look real carefully at that.
 
I did glue it on but not loctite I used I nail polish from my flyting side not from my fashion gear. I read your post to Don and felt like I did all of that and more. However I do understand your opinion that folks like me are unlikely to get a carb job right the first time I was shocked the motor even started.

I will have to order an other set of set of parts before I get involved in round 2 it takes about 2week for the parts to get here.

Thanks again

Grant
 
Hi Don,

Sorry to hear you're having these problems. I'm also sorry to hear that you are using starting fluid on this fine engine. I physically flinched each time I read "used starting fluid". I absolutely hate the stuff. It really can't be used without causing some damage.

Whereas gasoline and other motor fuels ignite and create what is known as a "flame front" that burns evenly and builds pressure in the combustion chamber, starting fluid, or ether, is much more volatile and is more like an explosion when it ignites. And, as with any explosion, the resultant violence usually removes a bit of metal close to the point of ignition.

Just a few applications of this stuff can ruin an engine and turn it into an "ether baby" making it act much like a drug addict that needs more and more of the stuff to get going. Anyway, that's my speech, now back to your problem.

It does sound as if you still have carburetor problems and that is what I will focus on here. You seem to be convinced that's what it is. But, you might also have an ignition problem causing your hard start. It is always a good idea to use fresh plugs and verify spark when problems like this arise. The fact that it runs after a bit of coaxing does seem to indicate a fuel issue.

I have actually taken a brand new float chamber out of the sealed plastic bag it came in from Honda and found casting sand packed in the passages at the bottom of the bowl! Sad but true. I very carefully go over new parts and clean them prior to installation after that fiasco. Perhaps something similar has happened to you with your new carb.

Do you have any idea what caused or where the "goo" you found came from?

Don't worry too much about the accelerator pump piston. If it depresses and then returns, it is ok. What you need to focus on is the passage in the body of the carb that it feeds. You may need to remove that tiny screw to decipher how that pump piston feeds the carb. but an easy way to tell is, with the float chamber in hand, supply some WD-40 or carb spray to the pump cavity and depress the piston with a small screwdriver. The orifice that the liquid comes out of will match a passage in the main body. Use a can of carb spray and it's little straw and BLAST that passage. You should get a good shot of spray from the jet orifice (if you removed the jet set) and the main and intermediate orifices at the top of the carb throat just behind the throttle plate. I use a pocket screwdriver wedged in the throttle shaft linkage to hold the plate open so all three orifices can be seen. The idle, the intermediate (transition) and the high speed orifices are in a little triangle at the top of the carb throat.

Yes, the idle screw needle valve is under that plastic limiter cap. I usually just snap it off and get busy. If you snap off the limiter, you will usually also snap off the slotted head of the needle valve with it. I use a very sharp dental pick to grab the smooth outer edge of the needle valve screw and rotate it counter clockwise to remove it. It is a pain to get out but once it is, you can file or cut a slot in the head and reuse it. I just use a new needle. THIS IS THE ONLY WAY TO COMPLETELY CLEAN THE CARB! If you don't remove the idle screw and get that passage flushed out, you will always have problems.

To flush and BACKFLUSH all the passages so that they are reliably clean, you need to hold your fingers over passages and plug them as you are spraying others. The enrichment passage that goes to the bystarter needs to be cleaned as well and it's the same deal. All of these passages are interconnected with one another and you need to plug and spray in one combination and in one direction and then plug and spray in a different combination and in the other direction to get them clean.

For example; if you stick the carb spray straw up into the cavity of the carb body where the jet set is inserted and hold your fingers over the passage for the accelerator pump AND the cavity for the idle mixture screw, you should get a good 6 to 10 foot stream of fluid out the back side of the carb throat if you have the throttle plate propped open. If not, then place the tip of the straw over each of the three orifices, one at a time and backflush. It can take several attempts and two or three cans of carb spray with a very dirty carb.

Yes, the passages at the bottom of the float chamber need to be clear too. Make sure a small strand of copper wire can be inserted all the way through each passage from one end to the other. One is just the drain but there is a vacuum break passage and the accelerator feed passage that are both critical.

I predict that you didn't need a new carb so hang on to your old one for a spare.

Now, after I wrote all that garbage, I want you to do one thing first before doing anything else.

Refer to the parts page link below and look at items #2 and 3. Take that thing off and shake all the liquid out of it and wash it out with fresh gasoline. While you have it off, briefly crank the engine and make sure your fuel pump is delivering fuel. Put that fuel chamber back on and see if it doesn't start better. If it does, you're done. If not refer to the verbiage above and good luck.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2006/BF20D6 SRTA /FUEL PUMP/parts.html

Hi, Well it took a few weeks before I actually got to take another look at my motor, but this past Sunday I first took off the rubber/plastic fuel chamber thing that hangs off the dipstick pipe and cleaned and blew that out. I'm not totally sure, but i think there was a bit of water in there. Then I took the carburetor off the engine again and took it apart. It looked clean in the bowl but I followed the recommendations above and blew some wd-40 thru all the passages, broke off the needle valve limiter thing and used a dental pick to rotate the valve counterclockwise to remove it and then ground a slot in the top of it with my dremel tool. Then I took all of the jets and float pin and so on out and started blowing wd-40 thru everything as well as air. I think I had two problems: 1. the accelerator pump piston was stuck; this was not the case in the past, but I took out that very small screw and cleaned it out thoroughly and put back together. 2. there is a very thin brass pipe adjacent to where the accelerator pump is with a hole in the end and 2 other small holes on it; i'm not sure what this does, but when i blew thru it, i couldn't, but after repeated attempts and wd-40, whatever was in there got dislodged and that seemed to be freed up. I put it all
back together, gently screwed the needle valve all the in until i felt it bottoming out and then backed it out less than one turn. I did NOT replace any of those small o rings because i didn't order any, and also because the carburetor is new. Put back on the engine and then primed the fuel, started it up, and it is now running absolutely perfectly, even when cold. I launched the boat immediately and ran it around at all different speeds for an hour to make sure it was going to cooperate, and it is still running perfectly. So thanks alot for all the suggestions above, I hope I'm back in business for another 5 years with that motor.
I really appreciate the quality advice.....DonP53.
 
Great Don! You made my day! Thanks for following through and letting us know the results.

Another 5 years without a problem? Maybe, but we all know what the word "boat" means.

But, yes, if you RELIGIOUSLY drain the carb before any lay up of a week or more and, if you periodically keep that "fuel reservoir" attached to the dipstick drained every six months or so, you will get GREAT service from one of the best little outboards ever produced. That is, of course, if you lay off the start fluid.

Happy boating.
 
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