Honda BF 130

I have a 2004 BF130, the buzzer comes on after I start it and stays on, the PGM-FI warning light stays on also.
I have checked the wiring and the sensor all ok.
What is making the buzzer stay on.
Thank you

How do you know that the sensors are ok?

The pgm and buzzer are controlled by the ECM. It is telling you that you have a bad sensor.

You have to find what codes it has.

One the port side of the motor under the black plastic cover, you will find a red plug plugged into a dummy connector. Take the connector off of it and use a paper clip or wire and short the two pins in the connector with the engine off. If you have a red connector with four pins...stop and do not do anything...you might short the wrong pins. I do not think the 130 had a four pin.

After you do that, then turn the key switch to on and watch the pgm light. It should flash different numbers of flashes. Count the flashes and report back. That tells you what the codes are. There will be some space in between numbers of flashes for different numbers.

Mike

Hi Mike.
Done as you asked result, 3 flashes then 6 then 7 and finaly 8.
what dose this mean.
I have twin 130 on the boat and we changed all the sensors over that is how we checked the sensors.
the only one we were unable to change is TP number 16 on the drawing, can this be changed as it dosent have screws.

Thanks
Donald

Looks like a long list. Some may just be stored codes from disconnecting sensors.

3 is the MAP

6 is ect sensor

7 is the Throttle position sensor or the ect sensor

8 is the pulser coil

The ECT and the overheat sensor are the same part number. One is located by the thermostat, the ect is under the intake manifold.

As for the Throttle Position Sensor, you have to replace the throttle body. I do not know of a replacement for just the sensor.

These codes indicate that the sensors could be disconnected, be defective or the associated wiring could be a problem.

It might be good to clear the codes, then recheck to see what codes remain.

Clearing the codes involves pushing or pulling your safety landyard button. The pushing or pulling depends on the type of safety switch that you have.

I am going to guess that the safety button you have for the 130 can be pushed in and the engine will stop. If that is the one, then do the following.

With the shorting tool in the test plug, turn the key switch to on... then within 20 seconds...push the safety landyard button in for about 1/2 second five times and release. You should hear your warning buzzer for a short two bursts. Then turn the key to off.

That should have cleared the codes. If you did not hear the warning buzzer, try it again.

Once the key is turned off, turn it back to on and recount the codes again. If the light is steady, there are no codes.

Take out the shorting tool (paperclip) and start the motor to see if the alarm comes back on. If it does, then recheck again, then go troubleshooting.

Mike

Hi Mike,
Just done as you said, only one code left no 8 the pulser sensor.
how is this changed as the wires go into the ECU.
Thank you for the information you have been a great help.
Thank you
Donald

You will have to remove the black plastic top covering the timing belt.

There is a large round plug/connector located just above the ECM, that is were the pulsers plug into the ECM. Yes, there are two. Code 8 is for pulser #2, but you have to buy them as a pair. You might have to remove some other wires or even loosen/remove the ECM enclosure to get the connector out of the ECM enclosure.

They are located under the crankshaft pulley. It has been a long time since I have had one of these apart and I am not sure if you have to take the crankshaft pulley off. Hopefully, you will be crafty enough to not have to do it. You need a special tool to remove it. You might be able to remove it with an impact gun and a flywheel lock, but you will have to torque it to 181 ft-lb. That is when it gets tricky. There is a special holder for the pulley. Anyway, lets hope you will not have to do this.

Before you go through the trouble to order a new part, check the connections at the large connector above the ECM. The specific leads to check are gray/white and brown/red. Pulser #2 in on the starboard side of the crankshaft. The resistance between these two leads should be between 970 and 1170 ohms.

If you change it, be sure to take a picture of the layout of the wiring so you can put the new one in correctly.

If after all of this work, you still have the alarm, it could be a bad ECM. That is almost always the last item on most of the flowcharts with alarms. If all else is ok, replace the ECM.

Good luck

Mike