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honda bf40 shift rod setting

medtak

New member
Hello. I have a 2001 bf40. I took off the lower unit to inspect the water pump and then reinstalled the lower unit reconnecting the shift rod at the position I marked on the treads. Now in neutral it sounds as though it is partially in gear although the prop doesn't turn. There must be a proper method for reinstalling the lower unit and adjusting the shift rod and I must have not done it that way. I'm am assuming this is the issue as nothing else changed other than the reinstall of the water which i believe was correct. Any directions on the proper method for reinstall and adjustment of the shift rod (and anything else to check) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Marc
 
loosen the lock nut------------Turn connecter slowly until the " sound " goes away, may have to try turning in both directions.-------------Verify that equal movements of shifter lever for engaging both forward and reverse.
 
Not sure I understand. Won't turning the connector up or down, absent any other adjustment, simply move the connector to a different position on the threads but not adjust any distance or shift position?
 
The simplest way to adjust the linkage is first to put the motor into reverse. That will give you clear access to both of the nuts.

Unlock the nuts from one another and unscrew the top (long) nut until it comes off the lower shift shaft. Don't loosen it any more.

Make sure that the gearcase is fully in reverse. Push down of the lower shift shaft using a needle nose or similar tool. You can also check to be sure it is in the reverse detent (although, if you do not know where to look, you probably will not find it). Also make sure the shifter is in reverse.

Now position the bottom nut (small nut) so that the top of the nut is .3 inches or 8 mm from the top of the lower shift shaft. Then, holding that in place, screw the upper nut (long nut) down to meet the small nut.

Tighten them together and you are done.

Mike
 
The simplest way to adjust the linkage is first to put the motor into reverse. That will give you clear access to both of the nuts.

Unlock the nuts from one another and unscrew the top (long) nut until it comes off the lower shift shaft. Don't loosen it any more.

Make sure that the gearcase is fully in reverse. Push down of the lower shift shaft using a needle nose or similar tool. You can also check to be sure it is in the reverse detent (although, if you do not know where to look, you probably will not find it). Also make sure the shifter is in reverse.

Now position the bottom nut (small nut) so that the top of the nut is .3 inches or 8 mm from the top of the lower shift shaft. Then, holding that in place, screw the upper nut (long nut) down to meet the small nut.

Tighten them together and you are done.

Mike
so i set mine to the 0.3 inches and it was clicking in neutral a bit. when you go slightly in reverse it goes away. My guess is that I spun the UPPER nut too much once disconnected….which shortened the overall length. Does anyone know how far below the housing the UPPER nut should be when tightened against the locknut? Just want to set it back to factory and avoid trial and error.

5A26AA44-7FF3-4E59-BC81-9EBE6CEE2E68.jpeg
 
With the top/long nut disconnected, where do you seem to be with the cable end adjustments on the shift linkage everywhere else? These 3 place are all usually set pretty easily, but if one has been overlooked/badly adjusted, it's not hard to imagine it making it difficult to get the 3 sort of aligned.
 
in reverse it’s on the reverse indent on the shift cog as shown in the picture. I just turned the upper adjustment 3-4 turns while disconnected from the lower making it longer then attached it back to the 0.3 inch lower. Started it on muffs and don’t hear any noise in neural and pulling slightly back into reverse it’s definitely trying to engage now instead of it being like neutral. Hoping i didn’t go too far the other way :).

ED99C35B-040C-4872-8152-81EF812220E5.jpeg
 
I had the exact same symptom on my 1993 BF45A after replacing the impellor - followed @hondadude suggestion, specifically to put the unpowered motor in reverse, disconnect the top nut from the gear select rod, and PUSH DOWN (doesn't take an uncomfortable amount of force) on the rod, and BINGO, the rod seated itself slightly lower. Tightened the 2 nuts on the gear select rod and my neutral now sounds prefect, not ticking like its about to grab into forward.

Thanks @hondadude !
 
Crazy how precisely those 2 nuts have to be. Read the response on running the long nut up then back down 3/16s of an inch. Wow! My experience was a bit different. Grinding in reverse. I losses the since nut and ran the long nut just about as far dow as it would go. Then looked them together. Worked great. ???
I could not survive without these posts. Thanks to all.
 
The simplest way to adjust the linkage is first to put the motor into reverse. That will give you clear access to both of the nuts.

Unlock the nuts from one another and unscrew the top (long) nut until it comes off the lower shift shaft. Don't loosen it any more.

Make sure that the gearcase is fully in reverse. Push down of the lower shift shaft using a needle nose or similar tool. You can also check to be sure it is in the reverse detent (although, if you do not know where to look, you probably will not find it). Also make sure the shifter is in reverse.

Now position the bottom nut (small nut) so that the top of the nut is .3 inches or 8 mm from the top of the lower shift shaft. Then, holding that in place, screw the upper nut (long nut) down to meet the small nut.

Tighten them together and you are done.

Mike
So i noticed mine is now harder to put in reverse than forward…feels stiff. I also felt like it’s harder to keep the throttle at lower rpm in forward….like the throttle wants to pull back and i lose rpm. Sounds like i’m still off but i can’t visualize which direction. No noise in neutral tho
 
Noah thanks. Did the adjustment. One indicator that it worked is the prop turns freely when in neutral. Before there was a clicking sound. Here's today's question. When I select forward I can turn the prop but it takes a little effort. Same for reverse. Is that OK? Again before making the adjustments when I turned the prop there was a clicking sound but it seemed I could turn the prop a little easier.
I don't have my water tank today. Will be testing it out by Friday. Thanks for your response.
 
i did mine again yesterday it’s about 7 threads or the thickness of my pliers (9.25mm). As i said tho, once they are disconnected i think of you spin the top nut too much it can maybe affect the length? Unless the top nut is on the rod with a ring type crimped connection spinning it while detached will result in altered length overall regardless of the bottom nuts measurement. So i guess start with around 7 threads showing and see how it performs.IMG_1828.jpeg
 
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