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BF 20 dealer says can't troll with ?

bugdoctor

New member
Just purchased a used three hour old 2008 20 HP and after i purchased it the mechanic an d dealer said they are not good for trolling as low rpms screw up the emissions and I may have to change the thermostat and prop in order to get low trolling speeds and better top end ????

I ALWAYS WANTED ONE OF THESE AND NOW i AM THINKING i JUST THREW AWAY ALOT OF MONEY ON SOMETHING THAT WILL NOT WORK FOR MY '89 SYLVAN SUPER SNAPPER BFL 16 ALUMINUM FISHING BOAT ???

He said that the two strokes are better for low and top end ???

Is the dealer correct in saying that my nice, very expensive 20hp Honda will not work for me ??

Have any of you loyal Honda crafters experienced this ???
 
Agree with Racerone - on the Chesapeake, you see a lot of fishing boats in the 24 - 32 foot class with Honda kickers - typically in the 15 to 25 HP class. Never heard of any problems. If I had a wider motor extension, I would have one installed.
 
You just purchased THE BEST 20 hp motor ever made in my opinion. Relax and enjoy it. Just be sure to drain the carb bowl USING THE DRAIN SCREW AND HOSE PROVIDED BY HONDA and run Sea Foam in every load of fresh gas. With regular care, you will have no problems with THAT outboard.
 
You just purchased THE BEST 20 hp motor ever made in my opinion. Relax and enjoy it. Just be sure to drain the carb bowl USING THE DRAIN SCREW AND HOSE PROVIDED BY HONDA and run Sea Foam in every load of fresh gas. With regular care, you will have no problems with THAT outboard.
I feel alot better now that I have spoke to some of the real users of the 20HP Honda... I did not get the hose and drain tools you spoke of -- where can I get them ? And what does it entail --- is it in the users manual ?
 
Are there any recommendations for the correct prop for my objectives: as slow as I can go (Lake Trout) and as fast/best top speed for movement from one place to another. The prop pitch that I have now is a number 9 .
 
Disconnect fuel line when taking the motor out of service for more than a few days.Then let it run at idle till the carburetors are dry.----------That is one of the best ways to save money / frustration on the new 4 strokes.-----Carburetor jets are so small that they plug up easily when carburetors are left full of what is called " gasoline " these days.
 
See page 95 in the owner's manual http://marine.honda.com/pdf/manuals/00X31ZY06310.pdf. It shows you how to drain the carburator. The screw is in the carburator (do not loosen it all the way to take it out...just loosen it some). The hose is attached to a nipple on the carburator float bowl and runs out to a nipple on the side of the engine that is next to where you see the water peeing when the motor is running.

It is hard to tell if you have the right prop. You want lowest speed at idle and fastest at full throttle.....You can not have both. It is a compromise. It also depends on how many people and how much stuff are in the boat.

The prop you have is 1 pitch less than the standard prop that normally comes with that motor. You can go all the way down to a 6 pitch, which would probably be good for your trolling but suck at top end...in fact the motor would probably hit the rev limiter.

I would try what you have and see how it does. If it seems to bogg down when you are trying to accelerate, then you might try an 8 or even a 7 pitch if it is really bad and you have a heavy load.

As for changing thermostats etc. Do not modify what thermostat that it has. Make sure you are using 10w30 motor oil. type FC-W (not synthetic oil). Also, be sure that your oil level is no higher than 1/4 inches below the full level.

Be sure to always use NGK brand of plugs that were recommended for the motor....no substitutes.

We sell a lot of these 20's to Barge companies on the River to use on each tow boat. Likewise, we sell many to commercial outfits that do water cleanup (lots of idling as well as a need to go fast). They are used is some very hostile environments. Other than getting the cooling system clogged with "whatever they were in"....ash pits, spills, etc, they keep on ticking.

As you can see, I am kind of biased.



Mike
 
I have a 2003 hight thrust 20 hp Honda on the back of my 25 ft fiberglass boat and it does just fine trolling for Salmon on Lake Michigan. Have your dealer do some research on "hull speed".
 
See page 95 in the owner's manual http://marine.honda.com/pdf/manuals/00X31ZY06310.pdf. It shows you how to drain the carburator. The screw is in the carburator (do not loosen it all the way to take it out...just loosen it some). The hose is attached to a nipple on the carburator float bowl and runs out to a nipple on the side of the engine that is next to where you see the water peeing when the motor is running.

It is hard to tell if you have the right prop. You want lowest speed at idle and fastest at full throttle.....You can not have both. It is a compromise. It also depends on how many people and how much stuff are in the boat.

The prop you have is 1 pitch less than the standard prop that normally comes with that motor. You can go all the way down to a 6 pitch, which would probably be good for your trolling but suck at top end...in fact the motor would probably hit the rev limiter.

Hondadude: Thanks for the very valuable information, etc. I am going to try the motor either this weekend or next as it is still a little cool here in UpState NY. Is there any way I can use a Tach on this motor to accomplish my objectives ? And if so, where can I come by one as inexpensively as possible ? I have been doing a little research on props since I have been on the forum and I am wondering what a 6 pitch X 9 1/4" FOUR blade one will do but I guess at this point in time the best way is experimentaion or Tach method if I am able to do it that way ?

I would try what you have and see how it does. If it seems to bogg down when you are trying to accelerate, then you might try an 8 or even a 7 pitch if it is really bad and you have a heavy load.

As for changing thermostats etc. Do not modify what thermostat that it has. Make sure you are using 10w30 motor oil. type FC-W (not synthetic oil). Also, be sure that your oil level is no higher than 1/4 inches below the full level.

Be sure to always use NGK brand of plugs that were recommended for the motor....no substitutes.

We sell a lot of these 20's to Barge companies on the River to use on each tow boat. Likewise, we sell many to commercial outfits that do water cleanup (lots of idling as well as a need to go fast). They are used is some very hostile environments. Other than getting the cooling system clogged with "whatever they were in"....ash pits, spills, etc, they keep on ticking.

As you can see, I am kind of biased.



Mike
Hondadude: Thankyou very much for the very valuable information to date. I have been doing a little research about props since I have been on the forum and I am wondering if a 6 X 9 1/4" FOUR bladed prop (any cause for alarm here ????) will reach my objectives?? From what I have gathered online the 6 pitch will move the craft 6" as explained online (given variables of coarse) and if I have an extra blade (four vs. three as standard) perhaps I can accomplish the upper boat speed as well. At this point I guess it's all in experimentation ???? Will a Tach help me and is it possible to use one on my model; wher can I purchase one as inexpensively as possible if so ? I am hoping to try out the motor this weekend or next but it's still a little cool here in UpState NY. You mentioned that my motor comes stock with a #10 pitch prop and after investigating mine I noticed it is a 9 1/4 X 8 so it has already been downsized two pitch numbers. My boat weighs about 700 lbs. loaded so I don't know for nothing until I try it at this point in time ... eVERY ONE HAS BEEN VERY HELPFUL and I do sincerely appreciate any and all comments given my situation. i will continue to post and take all into the consideration hat of knowledge. Please keep the info coming ! thanks JIM
 
Michigander: Thanks for the comments. My boat is a '89 Super Snapper AL and probably weighs about 700 lbs. when fully loaded. As you well know Lake Trout are slow trollers (3/4 mph or less whereas I also fish for Landlocks,Browns and Rinbows hereabouts... those species are a bit faster at apprx. 1 1/2 - 2 mph so my initial concern was, will my motor troll this slow and not involve any mechanical problems while asking it to at least give me some substantial speed/power when moving from one area to another ???? Your boat, more likely then not, is much heavier and it may not involve all that I am asking. As far as my dealer goes with "hull speed research" I question much of what he has to offer in the area of knowledge -- at this point in time, that is to say ! Especially after finding that the motor has a 8 pitch installed instead of a # 9 as he had indicated when I purchased the motor. Anyone know the best deals on props to buy ?
 
JGMO: The carb info you related to seems to be the general consensus throughout. I will certainley use your advice and experience to provide good dependability/maintenance for my 20 HP. Good to know about the carb in and outs of things. Thanks
 
A tach connection depends on which model you have. Post the serial number and I will check. I am on the road now, so it may be tomorrow before I respond.
 
Sorry but I incorrectly pictured a kicker set up when I read your original post,not as a main motor.Oops! But I think you will love your New Honda.If you do have problems trolling that slow usually dragging a 5 gallon bucket or a trolling bag will do the trick,especially in trailing seas.My comment on hull speed was based on a larger heavier boat like mine where the 20 hp motor would never get you on top of the water.Good luck fishin!
 
bugdoctor,

In addition to the carb draining ritual, there may be one other area that you could "protect" yourself. I'm not sure if yours has one (I have earlier models) but if you have a thing called a "fuel reservoir" attached to the engine oil dipstick tube, that should be taken off and drained periodically too. It is a black looking "bulb" that the fuel travels through before getting to the carburetor. It tends to collect any water in the fuel and retain it. When it has captured enough water, it will starve the engine for gas and cause hard starting and running issues. It's a pain but simply taking it off and shaking all the liquid out of it from time to time will keep you on the water and happy.

I L-O-V-E these little 20's!

They are a "20" in another way too....They will last 20 years if treated properly.

Clean, fresh fuel...eliminates about 90% of most worries and then;

Fresh spark plugs every year...NGK ONLY

Regular oil and filter changes (OF COURSE!)

Pull prop FREQUENTLY and check condition of hub bushing and thrust washer. Replace thrust washer if any wear at all is evident. Check for any debris or line wrapped around prop shaft. (#1 cause of prop shaft seal failure)

Gear oil level check every oil change and change every year.

New water pump, thermotat, and flush valve every 2 years.

Try and find a shop or mechanic that has some regard for these outboards. You can do all the services listed yourself but it DOES take some special knowledge and tools along with proper technique to DO IT RIGHT. The gear case, for example, requires that you check it for leaks with a POSITIVE pressure and a NEGATIVE pressure. This requires not only REGULATED shop air but also a vacuum hand pump, gauge and adapters for performing the service. BUT, MOST IMPORTANTLY, it takes someone that cares enough about maintaining these babies to be trusted to get it done properly. THAT is the biggest challenge when finding someone to help you with your equipment.




Clean, fresh fuel
 
Your motor should have a grey lead and a black lead with bullet type connectors buried in the wire connector holder on the front of the engine. You can connect an outboard tach to the grey (sender connection), black (ground), and you will have to run a wire from the battery positive terminal to the battery terminal on the tachometer. If it is a Faria tach (make sure it is an outboard tach), the setting should be setting # 4...if it is a Teleflex gauge (can be a tach for an Inboard outboard or outboard), then the setting is 6P.

Hope this helps in determining the correct prop.

Mike
 
Another possibilty is a tach/hourmeter from Honda that hooks to a spark plug wire.I have one and it works well and cost about $50.Nice to have the hour meter as well as the tach.
 
Another possibilty is a tach/hourmeter from Honda that hooks to a spark plug wire.I have one and it works well and cost about $50.Nice to have the hour meter as well as the tach.

Thats sounds like a good fix also, especially the hour meter for maintenance schedules, etc. Is the tach/meter listed on the Honda site or do I have to obtain it via a dealer ?
 
Do not change the thermostat. 2 strokes do "tend" to have more output per pound of weight just because they weigh less. I have a 12 foot Lund with a new MERC 15 HP and it spends most of the time trolling. All things equal, four strokes put out far less emissions than a two stroke. There is one exception but that is for a different conversation. The only thing you will have to do for trolling is to determine the proper prop pitch and it might take a couple of tries to get it right. I can troll at 1.3 mph or less.
Now how do I know all of this stuff? I was a professional mechanic for over 23 years, a graduate engineer, and my thesis was internal combustion engines. I have had many boats and motors. The dealer just wants to sell you another motor so don't fall into that trap. I use synthetic oil in every device that I have, cars, boats, lawn mowers, etc. Once again, your motor will work just fine. The guy that you talked to that calls himself a mechanic does not know what he is talking about.
 
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