Engine oil and filter change

As it looks like my engine hasn`t been very well looked after and it`s out of action due to the raw water impeller having been ripped to bit then i`d be as well giving her an oil and filter change while i`m at it.

As the boat is about 90 miles away then i`d like to be able to get the filter and oil before i go so could anyone let me know the part code for the filter as i understand it can be picked up from a local autoparts supplier?

Also as my engine is turbo charged then apperently i need to use a higher grade of oil to protect the turbo. I`m not sure if something like diesel 5w40 would be suitable and if it should be semi synthetic or fully synthetic? Also how many litres i`ll need buy?

I was thinking that maybe this`d be ok as it`s designed for turbo diesel engines http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/...duct_Details_Zone_1-_-Blank&iozone=PDPz1#tab1

Cheers for any help and advice,

Matt.

Matt, your engine takes 22.5 litres. Lehman oil filter #1612468. There is a ford # but i won't be able to get that till tomorrow. It's not likely you will find it locally . I'm guessing you are in the u.k. So i will try to find a parts dealer for you.
Charlie w .

Hi Charlie, I`ve just spent over £400 ($625) on getting bits for the boat so i`ll need to wait until i get paid again as the oil alone will cost over £200 ($320)!
I`m actually in Scotland not far away from St.Andrews which most people will know of. I think Lancing Marine over here in the UK should be able to supply parts i need if i can`t get the bits locally or or over the internet. The Ford number would be good as over here then you mention anything about boat or marine and the price triples.
Cheers, Matt.

Ps. My Mrs is going to string me up if she finds out how much i`m spending on the boat! lol

Hi matt, i did some checking and i think you have a sabre marine engine with a bowman heat exchanger and expansion tank all in one mounted on the front of the engine. I should have asked you to post some pictures on this site.
Anyway sabre used a perkins oil filter #2654407 (sabre #46547)on their 250 hp, can't find a 240 hp listed. This perkins filter is used on perkins industrial diesels so it should be available without going to a marine store.
Ouch!! That oil price hurts! Multi viscosity oil is not recommended-- use 30weight shell rotella /chevron delo or equivalent.
I suggest carrying lots of extra fuel filters . It sounds like you have bacteria in the tanks and the first time out in rough seas they will plug up.
Don't forget to fill the oil filter with oil before you spin it on-- saves lots of wear on the bearings.
Hopefully you will get all the bugs worked out before you take her out for a cruise or you will never hear the end of it!
Charlie w.

Hi again Charlie, that`s me just ordered a filter and after having a wee hunt about on the net then i wondered if this oil would be ok as it says it`s designed for turbo diesel engines and is 30w oil, plus it`s half the price of the multigrade? http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=115

In regards to fuel filters then i`ve ordered 6 already just to be on the safe side and i`m seriously thinking about trying to drain off the fuel tanks as much as i can and then removing them for cleaning. Next question is what`s the best way of cleaning them and also what will kill the bacteria? I take it the old diesel will need to be dumped if infected? This is something which was suggested to me to use by a trawler fisherman friend of mine for treating the diesel so as not to need to discard it. http://www.dieselpartsdirect.co.uk/Product-159/Additives/Soltron-Enzyme/Sol3--500ml/Sol3

I`ve arranged to get friday this week off my work so hopefully i`ll be able to have all the goodies i`ve ordered hidden in the boot of the car and away before she notices lol.

Last thing is do you know the size and width of the alternator belt as i`ve a load in my shed that i bought as a job lot and thought i could measure them and see if any would do as backups?

Cheers, Matt.

Ps. I`d need a hell of a big set of oars to row a 28ft, 4.5 tonne boat to shore in rough weather!

Matt, both products should work fine but if you are going to add it to your fuel now-- use less than the directions call for as it will kill off bacteria so fast filters plug up in no time.
If tanks can be removed easily steam clean them but make sure they are dry before installing.
Here in the states most boaters hire a fuel cleaning company (expensive). I think the best bet is to remove the tanks, clean, install than get a real good filter and pump the fuel back in but it may be in your best intrest to use fresh fuel
i'll get back to you on the belts.
Charlie w.

Charlie, I`m able to isolate both tanks so i think i`ll stick some of the killer in with the taps closed so i can acess what`s going on in each one. One of my next jobs is to get the fuel gauge working again as i found it wasn`t connected in any way to the tanks. As they`re 60 gallon ones then if say 3/4 full then that`s a hell of a lot of fuel to try and get rid of and move.

Anyway, i`ll get to that once i get the cooling system working again properly and have found the bits of the impeller. At less than $2 then i`m not bothered if i have to change the filters everytime i go through and test run the engine. I`m glad that oil will be ok as it`s half the price so i`ll hopefully be able to get that done sooner rather than later.

I bought my other half a top of the line steam cleaners for her christmas present this year (she was the one who suggested it and chose it herself) but i`m not sure she`d be very happy if it went missing and came back stinking of diesel lol.

Anyway, that`s me been able to get friday off so hopefully i`ll be able to get cracking on this ever increasing list of things i need to do before even getting my first trial sail with her. I want to play with my new toy, not get far too up close and personal with her guts before i get to know her. Just as well i was a motorbike mechanic for 30 odd years and not scared to get my hands dirty otherwise all this would be costing me a fortune in labour charges!

Cheers, Matt.

Matt, lehman used a matched set of 47" 17/32" wide 36 degree belts on the 225--275 horse turbo, so sabre may have used the same size unless their alternator pulley was larger or something else unforseen!
Wish we weren't so far away i would love to get in your way ? I mean help get her purrin'
charlie w.

I`m not sure where you are Charlie but getting in the way you certainly wouldn`t be as with all the help and advice you`ve already passed on to me then it would`ve taken me a long time to find out and learn.

Fingers crossed that i`ll get her up and running soon anyway and here`s a photo of the boat so you know what the engine lurks in.



Cheers, Matt.

Wow! That's a great looking boat!
Unfortunately i'm in new york on lake champlain (across the pond) otherwise it would be fun to see it up close. I hope you get her squared away this weekend.
Charlie w.

Most of the bits have arrived so off over there tomorrow to get started. I`ve also purchased one of these as i think it made sense to add a PTFE bearing disc to allow the impeller a chance in case it ran dry for any reason. http://www.speedseal.com/SpeedsealLife/SpeedsealLife.html

Fingers crossed i can fish out the other blades of the old impeller and we`ll at least start pumping water so we can properly warm the engine up ect.

Cheers, Matt.

Charlie you had a PM.

Matt, truly sorry i missed your questions. If you can hold your hand on any part of the engine block for five seconds with out getting burned i'd say bad sender or gage. Best bet use a cooking thermometer in anti freeze tank to check electric gage. Impeller parts should not go past first item in route of flow (heat exchanger or intercooler). Try the cooking thermo first, if it goes above 190 in neutral you may have to remove the cover from the above to check for blockage.
Your message said 4500 rpm is this a mistype??? (i hope)
oil pressure should be 41# @1600 rpm hot. If you have a mechanical gage available try it as a reference to see if your electric gage is accurate.
I don't know what gages or senders you hav e as many boat builders used their own supplier.
Try looking at the gage for a mfr. Typically part #s are on the back of the gage and stamped into the wrench flats of the sender or just below. With that info i may be able to tell you what you have.
Just for info sake i have mech. Gages in the engine room and electric on the bridge.
Again sorry for the delay. Charlie

No worries Charlie. I was just at the point of ripping my hair out after a long day working on the boat. I ordered a new temp sensor and a cooking temp probe the evening i got back so have them ready to try on Saturday. (Great minds think alike! lol)
Idle rpm is 450 rpm which it seems happy with. The Tiny Tach is a handy wee thing and easy to fit with no setting up.
I think the gauges are probably from the late 1970`s or early 80`s so i`ll be looking to update them when i can.
I think a mech oil pressure gauge will be one of the next things but not sure where they`d fit into the system.
Fingers crossed it was just the sensor that was faulty but if not then i`ll just have to dig deeper and see if i can find any more partial blockages as even though it`s getting a flow then maybe it`s not enough of one.
Cheers, Matt.

Hi Charlie, you have a pm as i have a case of disappearing coolant from the header tank.

Matt, sent you a pm hope you got it!!



Hate to add insult to injury , but if exchanger leaks than oil cooler can't be far behind !!
Charlie w.

Oh joy!!! lol Where`s ma gun as i`m going to put it out of it`s misery and mine very soon at this rate. Now i`m starting to understand why so many people convert boats to run with outboards.

Ps. Charlie you have another pm.

Matt,
once you get things straightened out you will have plenty of fun filled cruising.
In the meantime it may deplete your bank account. Been there done that too many times but in the end i wouldn't have done things different.
You have a pm.
Charlie w.