Logo

2002 BF225 VST Screw removal

brian__c

Contributing Member
I have made at least 3 serious attempts to remove the VST screw from my BF225 and have failed miserable
each time. The VST screw is recesssed behind a support frame that holds an aluminum fuel line so it’s not
easy to get at. I have made several trips to hardware stores to buy; a long (~7”) thin screw driver, an
impact driver hand tool and PB Blaster. I have also bought a replacement VST screw.

On the last attempt, I used PB Blaster and soaked the screw for about 3 hours. I used the impact driver
hand tool with a 7/8” socket to which the screwdriver handle fit perfectly. When I struck the impact driver
with a hammer, the screwdriver turned slightly (with torque), but the screw would not budge and now the head is stripped.

There's gasoline in the VST, so I’m thinking applying heat would not be a good idea. I’ve also bought a
screw extraction kit, but I haven’t quite figured out how I’m going to get the drill bit and extraction
tool to reach the stripped screw.

Any other ideas on how to get this screw out?
 
Disassemble the engine cover and the "steel brace" that is holding the fuel line. Remove the intake cover and the intake manifold, take a picture of the VST and mark all the lines for location and remove the VST. It's the only way you are going to get this done. There are no short cuts. If you damage the VST tank, trying to do this while it is still mounted to the engine, prepare to lay out some $$$$$ to replace it. You can have the tank out in about an hour barring any rusted bolts.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I have not been able to drain the VST since I bought the boat/engine 3 years ago. From reading some other posts, I was also thinking that I should clean the VST as some point, so I assume it makes sense to clean it while I have it out.

I'll try to take pictures and let you know how I make out.
 
Hi Chris

I have a 2007 BF150 ----- I have not been able to locate the VST drain screw---it has 450 hours on it and I don't think the VST has ever been serviced (other then the HP filters being chasnged-out). Should I follow the same advice you just gave Brian_c
(i.e. Remove the intake cover and the intake manifold, take a picture of the VST and mark all the lines for location and remove the VST)??
Thanks your comments.
 
Finally took the initiative to pull the left cover of my BF150 today and went on the search for the VST purge screw. The mystery--I have the OEM Honda manual for the BF150 (all $ 150 of it!!) and there is zero mention of the VST purge hose (or drain screw) in that manual (at least not in the chapter describing how to remove and dismantle the VST).

Anyway, I found the screw and the purge hose, backed-off on the screw, and was surprised to see just how much gas drained out (at least half a liter)

The good news: no gunk---the gas was clean (450 hours on the BF150)

So my question: is draining the VST a standard maintenance procedure, practiced by all Honda mechanics? Curious why there was no mention of it in the manual.

I'm also going to presume that because the gas was nice and clean, the components inside the VST should be pretty clean and maybe it's premature to be thinking about taking it apart and cleaning it, at least for another few hundred hours (?)

thanks
 
The BF 225 is a very different engine than the BF 150. Get the 225 Manual from Helm, or order it off of ebay. You can likely re-sell your 150 manual on eBay. When draining the VST you need to keep the purge screw open until there is not a drop of fuel left. The gunk is usually in the very last part to come out. Personally, I purge the VST every time I haul the boat for 100 hour maintenance.
 
Based on what I now consider very good advise, I removed the VST assembly to get at the stripped VST screw. Removing the VST was a PIA, but that will be the subject of another post.

Now that I have the VST out (and the VST separated from the pump housing), I still can't remove the drain screw. I've soaked it in PB Blaster overnight, but the screw has a O-ring, so I'm thinking it's going to be difficult for the PB Blaster to get by it.


While I have it out, I thought I might as well inspect/clean the VST tank and pump housing, since I'm not sure if its ever been serviced (480 hours on engine) and I found that the HP filter had caught some coffee-grind sized debris and needs to be replaces after 160 hours. My new problem is that I can't remove the (Stainless) screws on the top of the VST and tank housing. I've soaked all in PB Blaster overnight and used a impact driver to try to remove the screws without stripping them. So far, I've only been able to remove 2 of the 10 (SS) screws on top of the VST/pump. The exterior of the VST/pump looks to be in very good condition (other than rusted heads on the bolts that fasten (via brackets) the VST to pump and VST assembly to powerhead). I'm concerned that if I can't remove screws with good heads on them, I'm not sure how I'm going to remove a stripped screw.


Can I use heat on the VST/pump screws now that all the gas is out, or do I need to be concerned with gas vapors? I'm thinking the best approach at this point might be to take the VST to a pro for service.

Any advise?
 
Don't use heat there - you still have gas vapors. I would take it to a shop and get them to figure out how to get it off, but I'm somewhat of a chicken when it comes to tearing into a $16,000 motor.
 
I think you should replace "somewhat of a chicken" with "very wise with good intuition". After I was 2+ hours into removing the VST and still only had 5 of what seemed like an endless set of hoses removed from the VST assembly, I was telling myself this was a bad idea for about the 10th time.....

I was also thinking its time to call in someone who knows what their doing.
 
Chris,
Thanks for the encouragement, but I think I need a little more than encouragement at this point....
Let me ask the question this way....What Would Chris Do (with this VST)?
 
I have the VST out (and the VST separated from the pump housing), I still can't remove the drain screw. I've soaked it in PB Blaster overnight, but the screw has a O-ring, so I'm thinking it's going to be difficult for the PB Blaster to get by it.

I also can't remove the (Stainless) screws on the top of the VST and tank housing. I've soaked all in PB Blaster overnight and used a impact driver to try to remove the screws without stripping them. So far, I've only been able to remove 2 of the 10 (SS) screws on top of the VST/pump. The exterior of the VST/pump looks to be in very good condition (other than rusted heads on the bolts that fasten (via brackets) the VST to pump and VST assembly to powerhead). I'm concerned that if I can't remove screws with good heads on them, I'm not sure how I'm going to remove a stripped screw.
 
wow Brian, Can you get to them with vise grips pliers or vise grips needle nose ? Sending you good vibes pal.. let us know how things progress at this point I am with Chris getter done don't accept faliure :) I am in my own battle with trim tabs, BOATS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Here's my latest update. I came to the realization that I was in over my head and decided to listen to chawks advice and "chicken out". I took my VST to a Honda marine mechanic and asked them to remove the seized screws and service the VST. I heard back today that they used heat to remove some of the screws and had to drill out the others. The good news is that they tell me its "good to go". The bad news is that its going to cost $600, $400 labor and $200 parts (HP filter, VST screw, float value, gaskets, etc). I'm also not looking forward to putting the VST back in. In retrospec, I guess I did the right thing. If the pro's needed 4 hours to service it, I would have been in deep trouble. I just hope that between the VST cleaning and SB56, that my problems have been addressed.
 
I picked up the VST this weekend. The mechanic told me that he was a little nervous using heat on the screws when he wasn't sure how much gas was in the unit. He also told me there was 1/4" of gunk at the bottom of the VST and that the screen below the fuel pump was clogged, most likely restricting fuel flow. I'm not sure how long it’s been since the VST was drained/cleaned, but I've had the engine for 3 seasons and 270 hours and was not able to drain it due to the stripped VST drain screw.

I'm a little more optimistic now that this is the cause of problems I've been having where the engine would not pull more than 10 gph of fuel at not get above 4000 rpms.

"Why didn't I have the shop replace the VST?"
That's a good question. I guess it’s a combination of short term memory of the pain I went through when removing the VST, overconfidence in my ability and the shop's schedule to make the trip (no trailer).
 
Back
Top