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honda 225 middle cowlings spreading apart

aristakat

Regular Contributor
Okay guys looking for imput:

My motor middle cowling in the past has seemed to heat up or something and where they meet in the back don't seal properly.. This is a common problem with 2002 honda225hp as I have seen other with same problem

I performed serv. bull#56 and hoping with new pips might help.
I contacted a local honda mech who contacted someone in honda they told him no fix for it to bolt a flat piece of alum/metal along seem and use to hold two cowlings togther that sounded like BS to me.

I asked rep at Miami boat show few years ago he said they were coming out with some kind of plugs to go over exhaust ports to help displace heat never saw that come to play.

Miami boat show is in a few weeks going to see the new Honda 250 :) and looking forward to asking question there again


I have BRAND new Middle cowlings and don't want them to spread apart again each motor is like $400..


Any imput from you'll would be appreciated on this? Have you;ll seen this as well ? Chawk has your done that ?


thanks
Jamie
 
Jamie,

I have not experienced the problem of them permanently seperating on my 2008 model. I have had problems getting them properly aligned when putting them back together. On one occasion, when they had been off for several days in warm weather, I used a heat gun, very sparingly, on low setting, in conjunction with a nylon ratchet strap to make them more pliable and hold them in place until they cooled. You might want to try that a little more aggressively if you experience the problem again. It seems the key are the two rear bolts. On my engine, there is a little bit of slop in those. You need to tighten them down hard with pressure against the side of the cowling before tightening down any of the other bolts. Just another irritating design problem (along with internal anodes that require removing the manifolds, an inaqequate flush system, over 10 years with no NMEA 2000 interface, many years of flawed exhaust tubes, etc. etc.) Irritating, but not fatal.
 
Jamie,

I have not experienced the problem of them permanently seperating on my 2008 model. I have had problems getting them properly aligned when putting them back together. On one occasion, when they had been off for several days in warm weather, I used a heat gun, very sparingly, on low setting, in conjunction with a nylon ratchet strap to make them more pliable and hold them in place until they cooled. You might want to try that a little more aggressively if you experience the problem again. It seems the key are the two rear bolts. On my engine, there is a little bit of slop in those. You need to tighten them down hard with pressure against the side of the cowling before tightening down any of the other bolts. Just another irritating design problem (along with internal anodes that require removing the manifolds, an inaqequate flush system, over 10 years with no NMEA 2000 interface, many years of flawed exhaust tubes, etc. etc.) Irritating, but not fatal.



thanks Pal for imput

I have yet to change anodes internals, how difficult was that ?
 
You need to remove the manifolds. It's in the shop manual - pretty obscure. Page 5-119. I didn't think there were any, since it is not mentioned in the maintenance chapter, but one of the tech's at my dealer, Whelan's, set me straight.

On page 5-119 it simply says "replace the anode metal if it is corroded excessively."

Of course, you must remove the entire exhaust manifold to inspect them. Great design, Honda! It would have been much more maintenance friendly if they had thought about making them a bolt-in anode, accessable from the outside of the manifold.

See: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard%20Engine/2007%20and%20Later/BF225AK0%20LA%20VIN%23%20BAGJ-1500001/EXHAUST%20MANIFOLD%20%2B%20THERMOSTAT/parts.html.

Part number is 12155-ZV5-000.

 
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