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2003 225 honda problems

G

garbo

New member
Have 225 honda that I bought with 90 hours now has 950. Has run great until recently it will stall at idle and sputter at higher rpms. Sometimes it will run fine at higher rpms. Have brought to mechanic and everytime he said it is fixed it does not work.This has been going on for a month. Vst has been cleaned and replaced new low pressure pump. new fuel lines, oxygen sensor replaced. Motor will run fine for first 20 minutes or so then act up. Seems to be fuel problem because when it wants to stall I can pump ball and it will run fine for a little while. Sometime it runs fine at high rpm for a while then at low rpm it acts up. Need help please
 
Simple things first. I assume no alarms are going off, since you did not mention any,and your green oil light is on while underway.

1. If you have an external fuel-water separator (which you should have), drain or replace it. Be sure you have a good seal at main filter seal and the fuel line connectors

2. While underway, open your gas filler cap and see if that clears up the problem. If so, you have a clogged breather tube to your tank.

3. While underway, at the point where power is stalling out, check your pump upbulb. If flat, you have a partially clogged pick up tube in your gas tank.

4. Run a clear plastic line from your pump up bulb to your onboard fuel water separator and see if you are getting any air bubbles in it while running.

5. Drain and check both your on board fuel-water separator and low pressure fuel filter. Sometimes they are difficult to get a good seal. I use a thin coat of vasoline on the sealing rubbers.

6. Drain your VST. The VST is in place to assure an adequate amount of non-turbulent fuel is available to the high pressure fuel pump. (The fuel in the VST tank is kept under pressure to prevent vaporization, thus preventing the fuel from becoming too lean under variable demand.) On the back starboardside of your motor, you will see a plastic tube looped around a holder. Unhook it, and look down at the base where it connects. Beside the connection is a small set screw. Use a long flat blade screwdriver to open the set screw - slowly. With the end of the hose extended downward into a clear container that will hold at least a quart of liquid, start opening the set screw. Do not open too far - if it comes out, you will need to remove the lower cowling to retrieve it. Anywhere from two to three pints of gas, and maybe some water and gunk will come out of that tube. Be patient, the last stuff to come out is usually slow,but drain out as much as you can. If there is water, or any gunk, then your fuel-water separator and low pressure fuel filter have failed and need to be replaced. At that point, you should also change out the high pressure filter which sits on top of the fuel pump and is held in place with three 5 mm screws.If you are still having problems, then it may be necessary to remove the VSTand clean the screen on the outflow tube.

7. If all that fails, try running diagnostics off the ECM. You need to retrieve the codes from the EPROM in the on-board engine computer - the Electronic Control Module or ECM.

Take off the engine cover and the plastic cover over the electronics on the front ofthe engine. There you will see a red four-pronged female plug. Use a paper clip to shunt the lime green/white wire to the black wire – that is, the two wires that are closest to the engine when the red service connector is correctly set in it’s holder. If in doubt, invest in a SCS service connector, which you can order online. Part number 070PZ-ZY30100.

Once connected, turn on the key switch and observe the number of blinks on the check engine (MIL) light. If the MIL comes on and stays on without blinking, you have one of the following conditions:
• Short circuit in the service check connector wire
• Short circuit in the MIL wire
• Short circuit in the sensor system power supply
• Open circuit in the power supply line to the ECM
• Faulty ECM

If the MIL comes on, then goes off after a few seconds, there are no codes in the EPROM.

If the MIL starts blinking, then count the blinks, which will indicate the fault code. You may get long blinks and short blinks. For example, two long blinks, followed by five short blinks, would be a fault code 25.The blink sequence will repeat itself until you turn the key off. If there is more than one fault, you will get multiple fault codes. For example, three short blinks, followed by two long blinks and five short blinks would be fault codes 3 and 25. Post the number of blinks and I will try to tell you what the error code is. Or, send me an e-mail at [email protected] and I will send you the codes.



 
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Thankyou you for the info I will go through the steps tomorrow. When the mechanic put vst back together fuel was leaking from the gasket and I figured that was the cause but I think he got it right now. When the motor acts up the primer ball does not go flat but you can squeeze it to prime more fuel to motor.
 
Have you tried running a remote fuel tank , also where the hoses and cables come into the lower cowling Ive found dirt and corrosion there and it squeezes the fuel line . Hoped I could help
 
Garbo - when you squeeze the primer bulb, does the motor pick back up? If so, that's typically a problem with the low pressure fuel pump, or the seal around the pump.
 
yes the motor will pick back up and run for awhile and sometimes if you go fast it will be fine. I believe that is the seal that has been leaking and i have brought it back to the mechanic 3 times I am going to check the seal today and see if it is leaking. I will let you know. I did not see any fuel leaking in the water the other day when I ran like the other times but I will look closer thanks for all the info. Just another stupid question I noticed the clear hose that is looped, the end is crimped between the coulin is it supposed to be like that or is it supposed to be open at the end.
 
zimnucks said:
Have you tried running a remote fuel tank , also where the hoses and cables come into the lower cowling Ive found dirt and corrosion there and it squeezes the fuel line . Hoped I could help
Click to expand...

This is a simple thing to check. I have made this repair to many Honda OB's here in Jersey. The aluminum swells from corrosion and pinches the fuel line down causing the problem you are having. When you pick up the fuel bulb while running you are actually opening the crimp the corrosion is causing allowing fuel to enter the system.

Replace the line if you find corrosion under the clamp.
 
I will run the boat tomorrow and let u guys know how it goes thankyou for all the tips. I was to busy doing house work today.
 
Had a different mechanic look at my motor this week and he believes it is the fuel regulator we ordered a new one and hopefully that is it if not maybe high speed fuel pump. The regulator is cheaper so we will try that first. I will let you know the outcome thanks again for all the info.
 
Cris is absolutely correct. Find the problem definitively before changing out parts. Did you run the diagnostics as I described earlier?
 
Docksidemarineservices said:
Have you tried running a remote fuel tank , also where the hoses and cables come into the lower cowling Ive found dirt and corrosion there and it squeezes the fuel line

This is a simple thing to check. I have made this repair to many Honda OB's here in Jersey. The aluminum swells from corrosion and pinches the fuel line down causing the problem you are having. When you pick up the fuel bulb while running you are actually opening the crimp the corrosion is causing allowing fuel to enter the system.

Replace the line if you find corrosion under the clamp.
Click to expand...

I think I might be having a similar problem. I took a look at my engine yesterday and I was not able to find the spot on the engine you are refering to. On my 2002 BF225, it looks to me like a flexible fuel line goes:
- From the Racor, into the cable bundle to the front of the engine, to the (on-engine) water fuel separator.
- Then to the LP fuel filter (via a short flexible hose)
- Then (via another short flexible hose) to an aluminum fuel line which goes to the back of the engine to a fuel pump
- Then to the HP fuel filter and then to the VST

Could you help me better pin-point where I should be looking for corrosion?
 
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