Brian silk
Regular Contributor
Just an update on a few issues that I have discussed here before. I just posted on the intermediate shaft bearing( bushing) seperately.
I had the Honda Centre here in Vancouver Canada do a full service at 625 hours. Water pump kit, valve adjustment, leg oil, engine oil, thermostats, internal anodes, and intermediate shaft bearing.
1- shaft bearing(actually a bushing was in perfect shape, no corrosion, grease still intact- not like the horror stories I have read here. The mechanic, who has been servicing the 225 since they were first introduced said he has never seen one fail.We did not replace it. So i shall see. Definitely a must to check when the leg is off for sure.
2-Valves were checked at 50 hours and this is the first time they have been checked since. They were all tight, requiring only minor adjustment, to bring the tolerences closer.
3-internal anodes. He said he has checked them on engines with 1000 plus hours, and has always found them to be almost completely intact. He did not change those either.
4- impellor was slightly deformed after 200 hours. It was replaced, along with the complete water pump kit.
5- All fuel filters were changed 50 hours ago by myself, so no new ones.
6- Leg oil was perfectly clean after 85 hours. I usually change it every 75 hours.
7- engine oil is always red, due to they dye in the fuel here.I change it every 75 hours(usually) He did mention that they do not like mid grade fuel as it has up to 10% ethenol in it, and recommended adding seafoam to the fuel, or buying auto supreme, gerry cans to fill a 200 litre tank, I don't think so.
8- I had some wierd rough start, and idle issues posted here before. The Computer showed the MAP sensor not calibrated properly, and the injectors as well. I guess he did an update, and on restart they both showed as in spec. The rough idle still showed up after about 5 min running time. he is convinced it is an air leak somewhere. I have checked with clear fuel line, and external fuel supply before. Also changed racor,m primary, and high pressure filter and no change to idling problem. Not a big deal as after 5 minutes, it is time to move anyways, and it always run like a top at an speed in gear. I would just leave it, but it bugs me when things are not right.
One note about the flushing with the flush port. I have never felt much water(by temperature) getting to the thermostat housing, or for that matter the top of the water jacket, where the hose to the thermostat leaves the top. You can tell how far the flushing water is getting by the change in temp of the metal from the warm engine. I have noticed that the flush water seems to go further up when the engine is tilted all the way up. But never any change in temp at the thermo housing. I asked the mechanic and he said it does not flow through really at all.
I noticed that there is an allen key grub scew on the thermostat housing that does nothing other than plug a hole. Iasked him what he thought about installing a fitting into each of them with a petcock and an exit hose. When flushing, you open the valve and it allows the water to flow up and through the thermostat housing. Don't forget to close the valves after flushing though!! I will try it and post an update under "flushing" This may have been brought up her before, I'm not sure.
I had the Honda Centre here in Vancouver Canada do a full service at 625 hours. Water pump kit, valve adjustment, leg oil, engine oil, thermostats, internal anodes, and intermediate shaft bearing.
1- shaft bearing(actually a bushing was in perfect shape, no corrosion, grease still intact- not like the horror stories I have read here. The mechanic, who has been servicing the 225 since they were first introduced said he has never seen one fail.We did not replace it. So i shall see. Definitely a must to check when the leg is off for sure.
2-Valves were checked at 50 hours and this is the first time they have been checked since. They were all tight, requiring only minor adjustment, to bring the tolerences closer.
3-internal anodes. He said he has checked them on engines with 1000 plus hours, and has always found them to be almost completely intact. He did not change those either.
4- impellor was slightly deformed after 200 hours. It was replaced, along with the complete water pump kit.
5- All fuel filters were changed 50 hours ago by myself, so no new ones.
6- Leg oil was perfectly clean after 85 hours. I usually change it every 75 hours.
7- engine oil is always red, due to they dye in the fuel here.I change it every 75 hours(usually) He did mention that they do not like mid grade fuel as it has up to 10% ethenol in it, and recommended adding seafoam to the fuel, or buying auto supreme, gerry cans to fill a 200 litre tank, I don't think so.
8- I had some wierd rough start, and idle issues posted here before. The Computer showed the MAP sensor not calibrated properly, and the injectors as well. I guess he did an update, and on restart they both showed as in spec. The rough idle still showed up after about 5 min running time. he is convinced it is an air leak somewhere. I have checked with clear fuel line, and external fuel supply before. Also changed racor,m primary, and high pressure filter and no change to idling problem. Not a big deal as after 5 minutes, it is time to move anyways, and it always run like a top at an speed in gear. I would just leave it, but it bugs me when things are not right.
One note about the flushing with the flush port. I have never felt much water(by temperature) getting to the thermostat housing, or for that matter the top of the water jacket, where the hose to the thermostat leaves the top. You can tell how far the flushing water is getting by the change in temp of the metal from the warm engine. I have noticed that the flush water seems to go further up when the engine is tilted all the way up. But never any change in temp at the thermo housing. I asked the mechanic and he said it does not flow through really at all.
I noticed that there is an allen key grub scew on the thermostat housing that does nothing other than plug a hole. Iasked him what he thought about installing a fitting into each of them with a petcock and an exit hose. When flushing, you open the valve and it allows the water to flow up and through the thermostat housing. Don't forget to close the valves after flushing though!! I will try it and post an update under "flushing" This may have been brought up her before, I'm not sure.