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Thanks for your help my 140 hp moter is good the stern drive upper is frozen

Roger Sawyer

New member
Thanks for your help agine. The upper stern drive is frozen and I have removed all covers there is no lubercation in at all in it rusty water only now what do i do next. would it be better to get replacement for it or repair this one or replace with volvo what models well work in omc and volvo used ?
 
what models well work in omc and volvo used ?
there is no compatibility between anything Volvo and your 1974 OMC.

your options are:
1. take it to a shop or ship it away for rebuilding
2. replace it with a new or used OMC upper of same gear ratio and vintage
 
thanks I can get a compleit volvo engin and outdrive 140 hp is this a opstion it all so has the sterinig and controls ect. 1986 is this a good or bad opstion
 
That boat is done. Stop any further attempt to repair or put another drive on it. Any time effort or money that you will expend on it is far better spent on a running, usable boat. You are already "upside down", "under water", whatever you want to call it. It may have some value in parts, but probably not.
 
Thanks what I ment to say is that the upper sturn drive is frozen interer in place not by ice ,can I repare, rebuld the exsting upper drive my self ? I did get this boat for less than 60 dollers the interer is good ect floor and trailer ect.
 
can I repare, rebuld the exsting upper drive my self ?
If you are mechanically inclined, and have a good understanding of gears, tapered roller bearings and shimming of such you can. The analogy I like to use: If you can rebuild a truck differential, and set gear track and bearing preloads, you can rebuild an outdrive.
Gears, shims, bearings and a proper manual will run you about $900. Add $400 for new ball gears and seals.
You want to do a lot of exploring and evaluating of other parts before investing $1300 into a $60 boat.
If you have the skill set to do that evaluation, you can find a decent running boat ready for fun in most markets for less money than you'll dump into the boat you have.



That Volvo stuff is of no use to you. The hole in the transom of the boat is incompatible to any other brands of drive train.
 
Sir: I bought a trailer that had a boat on it i did not want. I paid 300 dollars. 1/2 hour after getting the boat to my driveway, i had the motor running. The boat sat uncovered for 8 years. 2500 dollars and a year latter the boat got wet and ran good for a season.
Then the shafts went in the drive, and the coupler went, and the motor went. Each time i replaced what went. Now i am into the boat for over 3500 .
A 1986 stringer last of it's kind, sorta the best of the worst. My advice get rid of it.
 
Thanks what I ment to say is that the upper sturn drive is frozen interer in place not by ice ,can I repare, rebuld the exsting upper drive my self ? I did get this boat for less than 60 dollers the interer is good ect floor and trailer ect.

It's not worth the time and labor and money to repair it, whether it is frozen by rust, water, broken gear teeth, bad shift cable or any other reason. Eat the $60 bucks you paid and give it to someone else. You will thank yourself that you didn't go any further with the project. I am not telling you this because I think you are stupid or incapable of fixing the boat. I am telling you that even if you spend the cash, the time and the labor to repair it the boat will not be worth more than about $500, on its best day. It's an old design, with an obsolete drive. Hard to get parts. Nobody's gonna want it.
 
1986 is this a good or bad option?
It would be an excellent option! The Volvo Penta OHC 4 is a great engine, and you can't beat the AQ series Volvo Penta drives!
However, note that the stringer drive transom cut-out is much larger than what the Volvo Penta will require.
The transom may also be non-structural, meaning that it may be fiberglass hull thickness only!
(this is actually a plus!)
In either event, a structural transom infill would become necessary.

If you love the boat, and if you are up for some mechanical and carpentry work, it would be very doable.
The transom core work itself is essentially nothing more than carpentry work with plywood, glass matting and resin, finished with roving.
It will involve some glass build-up and closure at the exterior.

The engine and drive are a piece of cake to install.

It will depend on how much of a project you are willing to take on.

.
 
Rick, you should start a VP cult over there on the left coast :)

I would join - I do have a a 1964 AQ180/200 waiting for the right hull.
 
thanks yes I have rebult truck def before I did compleat disasembley did dicover two bad bearing and seals Thanks for your and I have found a used replacement for $200 localy it looks good now I need to decide Thanks for all your advice Roger
 
Not for nothing the new VP's are not as reliable as the ones from day's of yore.
I thought this was the omc forum.
May i call you Roger sir? What manual are you using ? I stand ready to reply to your OMC questions and help you get the boat running safely.
 
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1.... Not for nothing the new VP's are not as reliable as the ones from day's of yore.
2.... I thought this was the omc forum.
1... Amen.
Volvo Penta shot themselves in the foot when they left the AQ series.... in particular the mid 90's C and later drives. :mad:
They've had issues with the Gimbal system drives, ranging from Bearing Box main seals, to corrosion issues, and so on.
Add to this the Gimbal system geometry and suspension, annual engine alignment, rubber hubbed drive couplers, etc ...... none of which are an issue with the AQ series drives.

2... Yes.... we did get side-tracked, didn't we? :)
However, Roger did ask about using the AQ series V/P engine/drive package!
I'm thinking that he read about the OMC Cobra drive being a candidate for an SX or DP-S conversion, and perhaps did not realize that it's not an option for a stringer drive boat.

.
 
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