There are more experts out there than me. I'm just an owner that has taken a high interest in maintaining this engine, because I plan to get at least 3,000 hours out of it.
1. The 225 does not output NMEA 0183 or NMEA 2000 signals. Honda didn't start doing that until the 2010 model year. It's a sorry state of affairs and I have been pissed about it since I bought my 2007 BF 225. If you know a good electronics engineer, then it might be possible to
figure out the signal protocols used for the Honda digital gauges and translate them to theNMEA 2000 public domain protocols on a simple EPROM and throw them into thenetwork. You wouldn't have to touch the ECM or anything else - just interruptthe signal to the gauges.
2. Maintain them religiously IAW the owners manual. Get one free at
http://www.honda-marine.com/owners/OwnerManuals.aspx. Change the plugs every 200 hours instead of the 400 hours suggested in the owners manual. Every time you change the oil (every 100 hours) also change the oil filter, unlike the manual recommends.
I also highly recommend investing in the Helm shop manual. They are now available through eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-BF200...anuals_Literature&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cbc819c52. $115.00 with free shipping.
As for things to look for.
a. Check with Honda-Marine to see if your exhaust tubes have been replaced with modified ones based on Honda Service Bulletin #56. If you send me an e-mail at
[email protected], I'll send you a copy of SB #56.
b. As a matter of good maintenance, change the impeller every year or every 400 hours, whichever comes first. Personally, I change the entire water pump out as opposed to just the impeller. It doesn't cost that much more than the kit, and it's easier to install.
c. On some of the older models, folks have had trouble with the drive shaft intermediate bearing failing, and actually eating through the lower casing, especially with the XXA and XXCA types with the 30" shafts. The next time you pull the lower unit to change the impeller, do a thorough inspection of the intermediate shaft bearing and replace it if necessary.
d. If your boat is not already equipped with them, install Racor 10 micron fuel-water seperators in the fuel line before the pump-up bulb. I use the ones with the clear bottom and screw-in drain. Drain them often.
e. There have been many discussions on whether to use synthetic oil or petroleum-based oil on this site. I stick with the petroleum-based oil since you should be changing the oil every 100 hours, regardless of type.
f. The most frequent complaint I have seen on this forum and others is the O2 sensor failing. This is especially true for pre-2007 engines (like yours) that still have the original exhaust pipes.
g. The engine puts out some useful ECM/sensor fault codes. You can access those by plugging in a simple connector (
Partnumber 070PZ-ZY30100) into the red service connector plug under the electronics cover on your engine, and counting the blinks on your MIL light at your keyswitch. In an emergency, you can use a paper clip to shunt the lime-green & white wire to the black wire on the service connector plug. A full list of fault codes are available in the shop manual.
3. Best place to buy service parts - this site - Marineengine.com. NAPA carries some parts, and I have found that the NAPA oil filters seem to perform better than the Honda ones.
4. Can't help on converting and sync'ing the throttle levers. However, it it were my boat, I sure would want to keep them seperate in case one failed, or I needed to make compensations for a sick engine. Aristakat, on this sight, has a duel 225 setup. Perhaps he can jump in on this discussion.
Hope this helps.
