Basic hard starting

Once again thanks to jgmo and Hondadude for their help on so many of my recent issues(valve adjust, impeller change). Now I would like to ask about basic difficult starting. When I went to buy my 1982 BF 100, the man I bought it from reluctantly hooked up some old gas to it and it started in 2 pulls after sitting for 2 years. It never started that way again. After the recent valve adjust and new spark plugs it runs perfectly after I get it started, and also restarts immediately. I also did a complete(or so I thought) carb cleaning. Any thoughts? Does the fuel pump play a role in the initial start up? Is it flooded, or not getting gas in the cylinders at all? The squeeze bulb is pumping gas into the carb fine. Thanks guys!!!!

You need to advance your throttle so that the carburator butterfly opens some. You may have to adjust your throttle linkage some to make it happen. I am not sure, but I think on your motor, there is a limit to how far you can advance the throttle with the motor in neutral. In other words, you can only get full throttle when in gear.

Of course, you also need to pull the choke out. You may also find that you may not have to pull the choke out all the way if you think you are flodding the engine.

In general, choke pulled out and throttle advanced pretty far equals immediate start.

Mike

Thanks again, Mike. As always, I will follow your advice. Sorry to ask so many questions, but this old motor is all we have at this time. Plus, everyone says these old Hondas will run forever with proper care, so I want to keep it at its best. Thanks.

James

Mike,
As usual, you were right on with this one. I have tried every throttle position at start up, but it wasn't until I held the throttle at the maximium level with one hand that the motor started effortlessly. So much for the "Start" position! The throttle works completely normally once the motor starts. My question, now, is what do I do about it? I have "fiddled" with every adjustment in the "throttle train", including moving the solid wire that attaches to the carb throughout its travel. I don't see any point in adjusting the idle screw since it will simply take the idle up too high. I suppose, to sum it up, I need to know how to get more gas into the cylinders when I pull the cord, right? Could the actual throttle cable be too worn? As I said, though, the throttle works fine after the motor starts. Maybe you and Jim have some thoughts on this. Thanks as always.

James

Ignore the start mark and keep advancing the throttle when you start it. As they say...."it is what it is"...

This is the same for almost any small Honda of that vintage. Even the 8HP when they were new had to be started this way.

Just enjoy your motor since everything else is good.

At least that's my two cents worth.

As always...others may have other methods...I hope they jump in.

Mike

NaymzJaymz,
Here are my thoughts on the subject:
When a motor is "dead nuts cold", like in initial start up, I would prefer that it NOT start on the first or second pull. This is because, if it does, the engine is firing with very little lubrication getting "up top" and that is not conducive to longevity.

I know everyone takes pride in their motor starting immediately and without having to touch the throttle but, like Mike said, it is what it is and all these old dogs have their own "personality". Having said that, is there something you can do to make your motor start "as advertised"? Probably.

Here are a few things that come to mind that could keep it from starting on the first pull, with the throttle closed:

Opening the throttle wide open to start could mean that the idle passage still has crap in it and you need to open the throttle plate so that the high speed circuits can feed the engine gas. This is unlikely since you say the engine starts fine and idles good after warm up. But, something to think about.

You are using too much choke and the throttle needs to be opened all the way to "balance" the mixture. You can experiment with different choke settings if you already haven't. I suspect that you have.

But, here's my number one guess....low compression cold. Due to wear, the engine's compression is a tad low when cold and needs more air entering the cylinder to bring that up and help atomize the fuel. This would require some extensive work to correct. After you've verified the condition, of course.

But, do you want to keep working on it or use it would be my question.