Sea Ray helm bilge pump switch on or off docked?

We purchased a Sea Ray 270SE Sundancer in May of this year. Coming in from fishing last night ( caught a nice 6lb silver ) I did all the usual things drive up, canvas on then turned batteries off I always turn on a switch at the helm just to make sure power is off just before leaving. I turned on the bilge pump switch last night to my surprise the power light came on. I have 2 bilge pumps one that the switch operates and a high water pump my manual says the switch should be on-off-auto but it is on-off. I assumed both pumps would be wired to the battery when power was off does anyone know if there is power to the low water pump without turning on the helm switch which is manual pump on or should I re-wire it to activate the pump by the float switch with the switch on or off? Boat is usually in dry storage unless were aboard it but we're planning on some long cruises next year up to Canada would feel safer with 2 pumps.
thanks in advance for any advice

Ayuh,... Donno how yer pumps are wired, but Mine are set up so's the float switch is powered directly from the batteries, 'n the switch on the dash just over-rides the float switch...

That way, the boat is bilged out, even if I'm not there...

The cabin pump should be wired dirrectly to batterie on float side this can be verified by locating pump and manualy lifting float switch with all batteries in off position. when outfitting i add a high water alarm this can be done by splicing to the brown wire from float switch to bilge run to audible horn /2 wire horn like the hot horn under your dash/ then run a ground to the other post on horn.with this horn in the cabin in the event you take on water while laying on anchor the horn will sound when pump comes on. cabin boats at rest typicaly the bow is lower than the stern there for they sink bow first. if the cabin pump is suspect have a qualified tech inspect. the pumps in the engine compartment will not come on until the boat is sinking.high intensity light or strobe may also be added. hope this helps as capitains its our duty to exercise caution and care when the safty of others is in our hands. back up pump a great idea.

need to know said:

The cabin pump should be wired dirrectly to batterie on float side this can be verified by locating pump and manualy lifting float switch with all batteries in off position. when outfitting i add a high water alarm this can be done by splicing to the brown wire from float switch to bilge run to audible horn /2 wire horn like the hot horn under your dash/ then run a ground to the other post on horn.with this horn in the cabin in the event you take on water while laying on anchor the horn will sound when pump comes on. cabin boats at rest typicaly the bow is lower than the stern there for they sink bow first. if the cabin pump is suspect have a qualified tech inspect. the pumps in the engine compartment will not come on until the boat is sinking.high intensity light or strobe may also be added. hope this helps as capitains its our duty to exercise caution and care when the safty of others is in our hands. back up pump a great idea.

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Thanks for the info I did check the bilge float switches they both work with batteries off the high water float is already wired to the alarm. The cabin float switch operates with battery on or off but no alarm with battery on because it's also the shower pump. Looks like I will be adding one more pump to the cabin with an alarm.

Need-to-know - please take me through wiring in an alarm on the float switch again because I want to do that on my boat. From what I read on your post, it sounds like the procedure is as follows...

I find the float switch and find the brown wire. I assume that is the wire that is dead when the float switch is down, but is hot when the float switch is up (i.e. activated.) Is that correct?
Then I simply cut that wire, install a T connector, and run a new wire off the T to the positive input to the alarm.
The negative wire from the alarm goes straight to the battery.
Is all that correct?

Bob & Sue said:

Thanks for the info I did check the bilge float switches they both work with batteries off the high water float is already wired to the alarm. The cabin float switch operates with battery on or off but no alarm with battery on because it's also the shower pump. Looks like I will be adding one more pump to the cabin with an alarm.

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Your pumps are wired correctly and according to what you wrote are working correctly. There is no reason to add a pump to the cabin with a "High Water Alarm"

chawk man, as long as the brown wire from float that is hot when switch is lifted and battery switch is off. one thing to consider when adding additional pumps propper gauge wire should be used, use 2% voltage drop scale [belden wire can furnish this] should be used. connectors in bilge should be checked annualy, cut wire at connector, strip wire back if black tinned wire was probly not used wire should be replaced with 14gauge 105c tinned copper marine wire. you will find this black corrision on copper wire will in most cases continues further than you can cut out [better to replace wire] this condition known as capilary happens when voltage is applyed to connections that are not water tight. heat shrink connectors tinned wire tinned buss bars, bassicaly your trying to keep connections simmilar. this black wire condition if not corrected will reslut in pre mature pump failyer, any inductive acc. will suffer and shorten life of pumps not to mention make them run slow. read your bio thant you for your service....

Docksidemarineservices said:

Your pumps are wired correctly and according to what you wrote are working correctly. There is no reason to add a pump to the cabin with a "High Water Alarm"

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Thanks for the reply after speaking with my Sea Ray dealer also there is no need or area where it would do any good the way this hull is designed.

Bob and sue you are asking the right questions where safty is concerned, most cabin boats do not lend themselfs for multible pump applications, your system is addiquit and follows the ABYC standards. your pump out systems can be improved but would require modificatons, with regular inspection and maintnence single pump application will do. were float switches are concerned make sure the wires are not stiff or obstructed preventing flot travle, make sure pump has screen in place,can be found found between pump and pump basket, a single pice of ty wrap or trash can jam pump if no screen in place. FYI USCG keeps records on the number of boats sank due to pump failer, the avation industry follows 2 is better than 1.....

chak man , depends how cabin pump is used, is the cabin bulkhead sealed from the engine compartment? does shower have its own pump?

Please say NO to the Manual/OFF/Auto helm pump switches for a Main Bilge pump!
These have NO place on a boat that is to be moored!

There should never been any means of accidentally cutting power to the float switch, and/or forgetting to power one upon leaving the boat unattended.

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