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2003 Honda 9.9hp outboard 4 stroke, no water coming from discharge hole

Jim DeWolfe

New member
I have just purchased a used 2003 Honda 9.9 hp motor for a 16 ft Aluma craft. Before taking it to the lake I put the motor in a bucket of water and submerged deep enough to cover the water in-take. When I noticed no water coming from the discharge I shut it down. Upon further inspection of the discharge hole I noticed sand had accumulated in the cavity on the outside of the casing where the discharge holes reside.

Although I'm not certain, my hypothesis is that the motor has picked up sand and has plugged the lines, pump, impeller etc. Not knowing exactly what to do first, could someone tell me the procedures that I should go through to further examine forblockages or a faulty impeller, and or pump?

Thanks, Jim
[email protected]
9/17/11, 9:19p EST
 
The pump is not " self priming " --------you need water 6" above where the lower unit bolts on.-------------Hopefully you did not damage the impeller!!
 
Hi Jim and welcome to the forum.

racerone makes a good point. You need to put the motor in a bucket that has water deep enough to cover the cavitation plate by a good inch or more. Hopefully you did that.

It sounds as if the previous owner operated in some pretty shallow water and that is where the sand came from. Not all that unusual really. The pump, when it is in good condition, will push that small stuff right on through and out. But, occasionally something like grass, moss or very small twigs or pebbles will get in there and get lodged and will completely block off the tell tale passage.

First off, take the port side cover off so that you can work on the motor. The screws can be a beast to get off and I use an impact driver to get them off easily. Make sure that no one before you has routed the "pee" tube incorrectly so that it gets pinched closed when the side cover is replaced. This happens a lot when the oil filter is changed. I've done it myself more than once. The proper routing for the pee tube is from the nipple on the engine block up through a hole in the "shelf" that sits under the oil filter and then out to the side cover discharge fitting. Make sure you remember to route it this way when you go back together.

Take the hose completely off of the fittings at both ends and verify that the hose and the plastic fitting on the side cover are completely free of debris. Next, you can remove the nipple that is screwed into the engine block and make sure it is unclogged. Then, with the water level in your bucket above the cavitation plate, start and run the engine. Water should pretty much gush out and. if it doesn't, then you definitely need a new pump.

If it were me and I had just purchased the motor, I would want to change out the pump anyway just so that I was secure and confident in what I had there. These are G.R.E.A.T. motors but the easiest way to trash one is to run them hot. On a 2003 model, I would use the COMPLETE water pump kit, not just change the impeller. You get everything you need except the "water grommet" (a half moon shaped seal that goes in front of the pump) and the cost is not that much more than the skimpy impeller kit. I would also replace that rubber "pee" hose as they tend to get hard over time and clog up more easily. I also like to slightly drill out the plastic fitting on the side cover for the pee hose as it seems to get clogged very easily when operating in water that has moss, pebble sand or small twigs.

Also, while your at it, at the very least, take out the thermostat and inspect it. I don't see much sense in taking one out and not replacing it but that's up to you. Just be aware that a stuck thermostat is another way to damage the engine even if it is stuck open. An outboard that operates too cool will deposit unburned gas in the crankcase and could eventually ruin the engine bearings. A fact all car, truck and boat owners should know is that cooling system problems are where 70% of all engine failure begins. I hope this helps.

p.s. I see the rr on your email. Is that for railroad? I'm an old Illinois Central man and was just curious.
 
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Thanks for the feedback When I removed the impeller housing I found an impeller with no vanes and remnant pieced of rubber in the fresh water in take and the exhaust.I checked the pee holes and they seem fine. One of Thedischarge lines I removed and pushed high pressure air through it. I'm concerned about tje thermostat and need some advise about location and how to check and replace it. How does it come apart and is there a gasket or do you use Permaseal? Thanks
 
The thermostat is located on the starboard side of the engine. Below is a link to the parts blow up.

On a 2003 I recommend that you replace items 1,2,3,4, and 12 as well as 5 & 7. This will address galvanic corrosion and leakage from the flush valve but does require that you remove the housing. If you only want to service the thermostat then you only need to remove the two bolts holding the cover.

Use ONLY the replacement seals. Do not use any sealant or gasket maker. Be advised that if you replace the flush valve, it will usually leak a bit at first until it seats in. This is fairly normal.

Does rr stand for railroad?

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...1200001 TO BABJ-1299999/THERMOSTAT/parts.html
 
RR stands for Time Warner's "Road Runner" high speed internet service. I understand where the location of the thermostat is now - thank you! I need to check for any debris in the thermostat and will order all of the parts in the expanded diagram.

Also, what impeller, housing and key way do I need? Do you know where that specific link can be found? I noticed the housing interior had a couple of fairly deep cicular score marks - probably from sand that got between the top of the impeller and the inside surface of the impeller housing cover.

The previous owner of this motor said it was in great working condition - thank god I started it in a trash can before I took it out. Also, I had at least 6 inches of water above the lower end bolts.

Thanks for the help!

Jim
 
road runner...of course! silly me.

These motors are bullet proof and if you just do your due diligence and service the cooling system, change the oil, filter and gear lube she should give you years of service.

Do yourself a favor and check behind the prop for fishing line and make sure the thrust washer has a smooth surface where it contacts the prop shaft seal face. If not, replace it immediately. Check for fishing line as often as is convenient to keep it from eating the seal.

Use the carburetor drain screw provided to drain every last drop of fuel out of the float bowl after each use and you will be happy with your purchase. Ignore this little step and invite carb problems. Honda carbs are finicky about old fuel.

Anyway, back to your question. The first link below is a blowup of the water pump parts as they are available from boats.net. It seems that they don't offer the "comprehensive" kit that I buy directly from Honda Marine. Item 4 in the picture includes some important pieces to be sure but I also recommend that items 5,6 and 24 also be replaced. They would be included in the kit from Honda. I also usually purchase item #8 as it is so easy and cheap to deal with when you are in there.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H... PUMP + VERTICAL SHAFT (L, S SIZE)/parts.html

Below is the link to the start page for their parts so that you can reference all the pages and target your specific model and serial number. Happy hunting and use plenty of marine grease :)

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/parts.html
 
Hey jgmo,

Good info about the BF9.9 and how to make sure they have a long happy life. I have a 2010 BF9.9. I use Marine Sta-bil in my main gas tank. I run it about once a month all year long as a kicker for salt water trolling. I flush after every use. With this type of usage, do you still recommend draining the carb after every use? So far, she purrs and starts first pull every pull. thanks your comments
 
Hi marketic,

Yes, I absolutely encourage all Honda owners to drain their carb bowls after each and every use. I know it's not practical if you're using the motor everyday but most people use the boat no more than once a week or less and then it becomes positively critical to keep the carburetor fresh. And here's why;

All LIQUID fuel, no matter how well filtered, will still contain some H2O. Your Stabil keeps the chemical compound that we know as gasoline from breaking down and going "stale" but it really can't do a thing to mitigate the settling out of any water from the fuel and landing in the low points of your fuel system.

And, it's not really the H2O that is the culprit in messing up your carbs. It's what is in the water. Water carries minerals in suspension and THAT'S what falls to the bottom of the float bowl and tends to clog up the passages down there that the carburetor needs to "breathe". In addition, with the water being heavier than the gas, it is the first thing that the jets pick up when you start up and the minerals in that water tend to "plate out" on the very tiny "jetways" and alters the air fuel ratio. This happens over a long period of time and, by the time you notice something is wrong, the engine is running or idling poorly and the carb needs tearing down and cleaning.

All carburetors get dirty and need cleaning over time but draining the bowl is your only defense against doing it way more often than you should.

Thanks for asking.
 
hey jgmo
With an answer that detailed and that full of conviction, I went down to my driveway and drained the carb.
Thanks for providing the full meal deal on why this fuel issue is a part of maintenance that can't be overlooked
Big help!
 
Well, thanks for letting me know my ranting is doing some good. Sometimes the simplest things return the biggest dividends. I think most guys read this stuff, and maybe even agree with me, but then don't follow through and then go on to have problems.

It's just that I don't want to hear them blame the engine or Honda if they don't act on the info. That 9.9 is one of the best in my opinion and deserves the good maintenance. It's a 20 + year motor if treated right.
Happy boating.
 
Honda 9.9 is a "20 year engine"

hey jgmo,

You sound like a you have lots of confidence in the longevity and manufacturing integrity of the Honda 9.9 series. Does that extend to all the Honda BF horsepower models?

I have the opportunity to purchase a 2003 BF15 , using my 2010 BF10 as barter trade. The extra Hp would be nice so I don't have to run at high RPM's like I do with the BF10

All things being equal, can I expect the same longevity and strong running characteristics from an older (by 7 years) BF15 as I can from my 2010 BF10?

thanks for the frank comments

Marketic
 
I have extensive experience with the '03 through '06 BF8D and BF20D models but none with the 15. Having said that, I am assuming that it is essentially the same engine as the 20hp since my Helm Inc. Honda shop manual for the 20 also covers that outboard as well.

I have nothing but admiration and respect for those motors. The rental environment mine run in is the worst, most brutal test bed I could ever imagine. Sometimes I think the props move more sand and rock than they do water. And, I didn't even see the '03 models until they were nearly five years old and had never had an oil change!!!

Those motors are out on the water (or shore) making money as I type and they have asked for nothing but a much improved maintenance schedule after I arrived. With the rare exception of a tilt motor here or an extension bearing there. The extension and prop holder failures being the direct result of abuse and no gear oil changes for so long. I really can't believe that they are still running so GREAT after having been "broken in" the way they were. They do exhibit the Honda "finicky carb" behavior but that can be mitigated too by careful maintenance and handling. My most aggravating problem is getting the dock hands to store the gas containers out of the rain.

Being a devout Mercury man, I never really had an opinion other than "too expensive" about Honda until I started working on those outboards. Now? I think I'd buy pretty much anything that they manufacture.

So, I think you should do ok with the 15 providing it hasn't been hurt in any way. I don't know how old you are right now but I'm guessing that motor will still be around long after I'm gone.
 
I appreciate the frank comments---gives me lots of confidence in the brand, whether it's a 9.9 or larger. I'm also draining the carb after every day on the water based on your comments--a big thanks for all your posts regarding these smaller Honda horespower models--I've learned lots!
 
Thanks marketic,
I joined this forum to learn too and I sure have. I belong to a very sophisticated and three dimensional forum called International Auto Technicians Network and, I believe, it is the largest of it's kind in the world. It offers resources available nowhere else for almost every car running today. I pay monthly for an "all access" sponsoring membership. This forum is small by contrast but I have to say I have found this to be the most "time effective" forum I have tried. You can go to many others that are similar but you won't find the knowledgeable, unselfish, no ego aid that guys like chawk_man, hondadude and others offer here for your Honda.

Thanks again for the kind words and I'm glad I'm in a position to give back.

Let us know, if you do the trade, how you like or (hopefully not!) dislike your "new" motor. One thing I forgot to say above was that it would be ideal if the guy would let you "test drive" the outboard on your boat so that you can get a feel if it is going to do what you need it to do. Remember, the 15 and the 20 weigh the same and I know for absolutely sure that the 20 can "carry the mail". We use those on 20' Gregor pontoons and allow 10 adults on board. We get virtually no performance complaints. Hell of a motor!
 
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