1984 17’ Galaxy OMC 3L 4 CYL Disengages at 2500 RPMs.

The Back Story.
We were in AZ for a family reunion on the 4[SUP]th[/SUP] of July and it just so happens that my brother in law after hearing my ranting on wanting to buy a boat gave us his boat. Now don’t get too excited, as you probably have already figured out this is a 1984 17’ Galaxy (brown/tan), 3L 4Cyl engine. Now we took the boat with the understanding that the floor was rotten and would need replacing, and knowing that all the upholstery would also need replacing (for which I have bought 18 yards of material and 5 sheets of marine grade ply-wood). That being said the boat fired right up, and we were told that just in 2009 the whole engine and outdrive had been gone through and inspected by “experts”. Now flash forward two weeks, we clean the boat up with a little elbow grease and a lot of mildew remover, and were excited about getting it on the lake. So the short seven minute drive and were backing the boat into the water.

Things that make you go “What The F%#$”!
We spend roughly 4 hours having a good time just cruising around the lake stopping occasionally to take a swim and swapping the kids out on the inter-tube. After we were all sun burnt and ready for a beer, we start heading back to the launch. Here is where it gets exciting; cruising at around 3500-4000 RPMs we’re moving at a good clip. The boat is up on plane and despite a stiff throttle the boat handles great. Then all of a sudden it feels like the boat was thrown into neutral. I grab the throttle and pull it down to neutral and examine the gauges the out drive and everything seems fine. I put it back in gear and start to slowly increase the throttle. At 2800 RPMs the boat does it again. Repeat about three more times (mumbling every profanity know to man and probably a few I had just invented) until I figured out that I could still make it back to the launch at 2500 RPMs. I pushed the throttle to this speed and limped back to the launch. The boat cruises at low speeds just fine but won’t go past 2500 without feeling like it was thrown into neutral.

5 Stages of Grief.
Of course I probably spent more time on the anger stage than I would like to admit, but now I’m at acceptance and ready to move on. I loaded the boat on the trailer, and haven’t touched it since. So now having free time from the army, I figured that I would ask you all what you think the problem is and possibly tackle it this weekend.

The Million Dollar Question.
Why does my OMC disengage at more than 2500 RPMs, and is there a relatively easy (and preferably cheap as far as boats go) fix. I have been told that it may just be a problem with the cable and it just may need a little adjustment. Keep in mind that I am a firm believer in the “Kiss” rule so I want to start with the simplest fixes first.

I’ll Make You Feel Real Good!
Ok, get your minds out of the gutter, I would really appreciate any help with this problem and willingly give my gratitude in full to anyone who can help. Thanks in advance for taking the time to read the ramblings of a frustrated soldier.

Welcome aboard !

As you figured out already i hope you have a fully mechanical shift stringer drive.

You will have a pm in a minute after i post this please look for it.

You are also in luck that we have the best experts here at this site to help you any time you have a question.

So you tried putting on a spare prop ?

What you don't have one ? You drive your car without a spare tire onboard.

A few times my spare prop saved the day for me and i think in this case would have saved the day for you.

See you posted the gauges are good and no overheat. See if you over heated then i think your coupler ( more on that latter ) or shafts in the upper might have went.

What you don't know the f i am talking about do you ?

When you read my private message ( that's what a pm is ) you will know.

You of course have no manual and have done no maint. have you ?

You just checked the engine oil right ?

How about the 4 places on your drive. 3 drive gear oils and one tilt clutch oil. Regular engine oil is supposed to go into that one.

First the tilt clutch. It is located on the port side small box that has the tilt clutch in it that moves the drive up and down. That one is supposed to have regular oil in it.

I pack it with grease. You will know how to open it after you read my pm.

Then the 3 drives. Yep you have 3.

It so happens i have the exact same motor and drive as you. There is not one piece in the drive and and motor that i have not fondled.

So get a prop. I so happen to have good props in my basement. But you need a 13 spline maybe a 17 pitch maybe a 19 pitch.

What pitch prop do you have on it right now.

Just for giggles i would think a 13.5 x 19 p or a 14 x 19p maybe. Evinrude props fit your drive. 13 splines look around at your marinas and talk to the mechanics tell them you need the same prop you have in your and when you bring it with you.

Post back.

sounds like a slipping prop hub

Man your on oint for about 75 %, but the one thing you missed is I am a soldier, from the old school of thought and the one thing i did do was check every nut bold, and fluid i could find on the thing (with the help of my brother-in-law, who gave me the boat). but if you thinks thats it, I will give it a shot. like I said it runs great (minus this episode) and it handles really great.
Again thanks for the help

Ok i am glad your keeping up on the boat, in the right hands the stringer drive is hard to beat.

Parts are still available.

Try the known good prop. and get back to us.

G-d bless !

Round Two
Well I took the prop off, and I am not a hundred percent sure but I do believe the prop was spinning on the hub. I have included some pictures so please let me know what you guys think. Also what do you guys recommend for a replacement? My prop is a 13 ¾ X 15, 13 spline. Now I have come to the conclusion that the solid rubber pressed in units are a bad idea (hence the broken prop you see below), and I have also figured I would defiantly use an aluminum prop. So that all being said, here is what I come up with; aluminum prop same measurements, separate hub assembly (just in case I need to replace it again). And most definitely an extra prop in the boat just in case it happens again.

Well I know I ramble but what do all of you think?

I got 13 3/4 or 14 x 15p prop in the basement i can get it to you cheap.

I think i might have 2. All used but usable .

Remember your recommended wot is 42-4600 rpm no more.

I bet you can get away with a 17p also. Better top end. I have a few of them.