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1994 fourwins 4.3 cobra stern drive

DJCLUKEY

New member
Engine starts easily and will run well at rpms 2000 and below. At 3000 rpm engine will start to slow to a stop after a few minutes, reducing throttle to idle will prevent engine stopping. If it stops engine will re start in a few minutes
 
Welcome aboard !

What else is the gauges doing ?

I don't want to suggest things you tell us.

Any more info like what was just done to the motor or how long you owned it.

How long has the fuel been in it.

Last tune up ?
 
Thanks for the come back

gauges are all reading normal water temp 120f to 140f depending on speed. Oil press good.

I have owned this boat for 5 years and other than winterization nothing has been done to the motor. I have been using auto fuel with ethanol. I put five gallons auto w/o ethanol after this first happened w/ no positive results. I also replaced elect fuel pump which didn't fix the problem.

Doug
 
My pleasure below is copied and pasted here from another website i am the author.

pumped all the fuel out of my onboard fuel tank when i got it.

You can do one of 2 things, pump the water out of the bottom, or all the fuel out and here is how.

If you just wish to pump just the water out of the bottom of the fuel, you will need to purchase a cheap electric fuel pump from any auto store dc powered.
You will also need about 15 foot of cheap fuel hose from the auto store and clamps to fit the fuel pump.

Install the hose on the fuel pump both ends and cut about five feet on the sucking side of the pump just look for the arrow on the pump.

Remove the fuel pickup tube it's the one where the fuel hose hooks to the tank a 90 degree angel fitting, it's a anti-siphon valve. Unscrew it.

Crank the bow of the boat all the way up, and stick the hose connected to the electric fuel pump 5 feet into the bottom and back of the tank.

Into a clear container pump the water out till you see clean fresh fuel and stop the pump.

Or into a large container pump all the fuel out.

Now check the valve by blowing thru it, check the screen thats its clear.

Install the valve and pickup tube your done.

Question do you have a fuel water separator on the boat, good to have.

Good luck !

You have to be careful ith the elctric pump do not bow yourself up.

Now your fuel tank is clean, the fuel pump if a bell type has a fuel filter in it.Clean it.

The fitting that enters the carb has a filter in it clean it.

Make sure your vent is clear. See you can be developing a vacuum condition in the tank.

I have that exact motor right now in my boat.

Really a 88' boat maybe the carb has never been rebuilt.

You have a rochester 2cg carb.

Heres how to rebuild it:

the filter in the fitting that enters the carb needs cleaning over and over till the fuel is clean.

the fuel pump have a filter in it ? And yes keep dumping the fuel water sep.

Finally the carb may have to be cleaned out over and over for a few weeks till it's all clean.

Just don't get any carb cleaner on any rubber or you will be looking for new ones.

Just disassemble soak and then clean all the holes and remove the jets.

Mine after getting the motor running after sitting for eight years i just kept at it till it ran strong.

Meaning the carb was takin apart and cleaned 3-4 times i can't remember.

Below is a copied and pasted post i made on a different website:


posted August 11, 2010 04:45 AMAugust 11, 2010 04:45 AM ok the idle circuit is still clogged.

Get yourself down to a auto parts store, get a can of berrymans carb soak comes with a screen in the can, like a deep fryer.

Also get a can of compressed carb cleaner.And a carb rebuild kit.

With a clean area on a table or bench i place a old cookie sheet with sides.

Break down the carb and remove all the rubber.

Remove the jets they should just screw out.

Everything goes into the berrymans, let soak for a few hours.

While it's soaking turn your attention to the motor.

Remove the fuel pump from the motor, the screen clean, all hoses good no cracks.

Re-install the fuel pump, and remove the t-stat, that good, i would replace it.

ok time to drain and refill the lower drive.

Well it should be a couple hours a beer and a little work another beer and a little more work hell might be 5 hours who knows.

Remove the parts from the berrymans, start with the lower carb housing and blow it dry with compressed air, it clean?

Piece by piece build it, make sure every passage is clean blow it dry and use compressed can carb clear blow it dry again.

Jets clean, Float, floating no gas in it ?

Push the float under water and if you see bubbles it's time to replace it.

Ok when you install the pin in the forks that hold the float are they pressing on the float tounge and not allowing the float to move freely ?

So if you did your job correctly the carb should operate freely, and when you install the adjustment screws be gentle.

Do not bend the tips. All the way in with them gently and out 2 turns to start.

Final adjustment on the water.

Have someone else drive about 2000 rpm maybe a little more and you do the final adjustment.

If you take your time and there are no distractions, you should be ok.

Good luck !

Get back to us after the above is performed.

Ps you have t-stat in that motor ?

There is a method to my madness i never ask questions for no reason. Maybe you should check that first.
 
Ok you have a 93' setup for a motor and drive or a 94'.

Allow me to explain on the 93' you have a esa module # 40 in the diagram:

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/omc-parts/omc-boat-parts.php?year=1993&hp=4.3&model=432APLJVB&manufacturer=OMC+Stern+Drive&section=Engine+Wire+Harness+%26amp%3B+Shift+Module

94' has:

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/o...ection=Engine+Wire+Harness+&+Shift+Module

Big difference was a transition year and the esa module was not used.

If a 93' then before anything after checking the t-stat disconnect the 2 plugs at the shift converter for the esa module and overstroke switch, simple plugs won't hurt anything and see if you can get past 2500-3000 rpm.
" The 2 micro-switchs that engage when you move the throttle ".

To come out of gear you will have to plug them back in or shut down the motor or the prop will have to be not moving at all.
.
If yes you can get over 2500-3000 rpm then your esa module went.

DO NOT BUY ANYTHING !

We can get around the esa module latter.

See i am getting older and took me a little while to deduce the model change over year.
 
Last edited:
I did as you suggested and pumped the fuel out off the tank. There was some water some dirt. The syphone valve however had dirt and small vegetation type material in it. Cleaned the valve engine runs fine now. Will put this on my winterization list

thanks
doug
 
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