TAMD41A Fuel Injection Pump

Can someone please explain in detail the process of removing the fuel injector pump from engine for overhaul & the process for reinstalling, as recommended by the workshop manual & also any other means if you dont have access to any special tools required.
Thanks for your help.

You will need special tool, but not that expensive.
Mark the pump and engine before removing so you have a reference point. Remember to turn the engine with No1 cyl at firing first!!!
Remove all fuel lines and pressure lines from pump and engine.
Loosen (all most off) the nuts holding the pump.
Remove front cover of pump, remove nut on pump shaft and attach a puller on the gear and pull off the the gear from pump.
If the 'original' puller leave it attached to keep the gear in place.
To install, just reverse.
To adjust you need the special tool that fits into the fly-wheel to set the pump timing.
I will strongly suggest that you get an original service manual and the proper tools before you do this job. Wrongly adjusted timing might lead to melted pistons!!!!!

Thanks alot for the information. I have a few more queries.
If i mark the pump prior to loosening any nuts & dont try turning the engine from the current position it is in, won't this same position be the same when i go to reinstall
the pump? Would i still need the locking tool for the flywheel? Would i not have the same timing as at removal?
The manual states install a indicator guage to the pump & after turning engine until TDC for cyl # 1 & it locks on the dowel tool, the indicator guage should read as per the
adjustment data in service bulletin. What is this data? I don't have this? Again i ask if this can be achieved by marking pump prior to removing?
The manual also states pump can be late or early, can you explain the actions of both of these instances?
I have workshop manual for engine unit but it leaves me with the above queries, I will try what you suggested with the return lines first & let you know, i was only trying to
prepare myself if i needed to remove the pump. Almost forgot where exactly is the hole located for the locking tool?
I appreciate your assistance.

I have Workshop Manual........Technical data........ B 2(0)..........SE-405 08 7741716-0 (ENGLISH)
this covers 31, 32, 41, 42, 43, 44 . Specifically the 41 section lists all models except 41A ?

Thanks skiss for that info...

If i mark the pump prior to loosening any nuts & dont try turning the engine from the current position it is in, won't this same position be the same when i go to reinstall
the pump? Would i still need the locking tool for the flywheel? Would i not have the same timing as at removal?

I take it that you are going to send the pump for service/repair. If any parts are changed that may inflict on timing, you must re-time the pump at installation, and would need the tool that 'locks' the fly-wheel in TDC position.

the indicator guage should read as per the
adjustment data in service bulletin. What is this data? I don't have this? Again i ask if this can be achieved by marking pump prior to removing?

From time to time engine producers may change data, even those originally stated in the workshop manual. The do it by issuing 'service bulletins' to dealers. You may have to check with an authorized dealer to get the latest data. If the workshop checking the pump is an authorized Bosch shop, they should have the data as well.

The manual also states pump can be late or early, can you explain the actions of both of these instances?

A 'worn' pump may be 'late' in timing, often noticed by heavy smoking.
A defect in timing mechanism may change to timing to 'early'. This however is often noticed by increased 'diesel-knock' in the engine.
In both cases the pump needs to be run in test bench and correctly adjusted/repaired before being re-timed on the engine. I have however quite some times 'adjusted' pumps without both tool and setting info 'by ear' in emergency cases. I'll not recommend it unless you are a bit experienced.
If you decide to get a mech doing the timing and installation job, be sure he has both the needed tools and the latest data before starting. If not, you might as well do it yourself!!

Thanks a lot haffiman, I understand the details much clearer now it will help in the future, but for now i would like to report that i solved my problem, it was a
indicator guage that replaces the tee handle in the top of the racor unit used for indicating differential pressure & was suppose to let you know that it was time to
replace the element, unfortunately this device was trapping air & was causing the hard starting. I changed it out & replaced the original tee handle from racor & problem was solved, starting on the first
turn of the key now.
Once again thanks alot for your assistance.

Glad to hear the problem solved without need to remove the injection pump. Repairs on those pumps are a bit costly!
The 'indicator' system is nothing but a vacuum gauge. If filter gets clogged, vacuum increases and time to change. Most likely a broken membrane inside.

Thanks for the information it was so helpful.