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Fuel tank corrision

dcbullington

Contributing Member
I have a 1966 CC Cavalier Futura with twin 327's. I just had the engines rebuilt and had worked out some kinks. Now my fuel filters are clogging. I drained the tanks during the rebuild as best I could without removing them. Obviously, this is not going to be good enough so I have decided to bite the bullet and take the tanks out.

Here is my question: Should I have the original galvanized tanks refurbished or just replace them with a new tank (tanks)? If I replace, what is the best material, aluminum? One tank or two (they are 75 gal/ea)?

As always, thanks in advance for your advice.

Dave
 
Hi Dave,
In my 60' Sea Skiff I had a 50 gal galvanized tank wich was pretty rusty on inside. Had it relined but without much luck. Decided to go with a new aluminum tank wich was built to same specs as old one. Don't know how yours is held in place but mine was clyndrical and held with steel straps. Just had to make sure straps were isolated from the alum, with neoprene rubber.
Good luck
Dave
 
I had the same problem, but I decided to tackle it a different way, seeing as I an a cheapskate.

I cut mine open, and made a large access hole so I could get inside and clean it out, with a scraper, and even used a wire brush, on a 4" angle grinder to make things easier.

But, as usual, using an electric tool inside a tank is frought with danger, but I made sure mine was totally cleaned of fuel vapours before attempting the "Cutting.

I filled it with water, then with a battery drill, I drilled four holes in the top, and then whilst it was full of water, used a Recipro Saw to cut the opening.

To seal it up, I made up an internal flange with threads tapped into it out of some Copper, and a Stainless steel cover, I had laying around, and used a Neoprene Gasket to seal it up. Plus, I used Copper Washers under the Stainless Steel Bolt heads to seal the threads so that fuel didn't find its' way up the threads.

Bruce.
 
No leakage from the repair, and the whole job took about a days in total, but the actual work took over a week cleaning the inside as mych as possible.

Bruce.
 
Thanks for the input guys. Tassie, you remind me of McGiver! I did get another suggestion from a guy in my ACBS chapter. He suggested I shorten the pick up tubes by an inch or two. He said that would decrease my effective range but also has the effect of kepping less junk from hitting the fuel filters. That sounded like more of a bandaid so I decided to replace the old twin 75 gal steel tanks with a single 120 gal aluminum tank. I can slide it in where the other two were and while I'm at it, I am going to replace the old steel water tank as well.

Dave
 
Is there any reason I can't use my pressure cleaner to super clean the tank? Assuming of course that I get all remnants of fuel out of the tank first. I like the idea of filling the tank with water to ensure there were no fumes. Good thinkin slick! I want to use a hand operated bilge pump with a large diameter hose to drain all the fuel and as much crap as I can and then keep filling it with water and pumping it out with the big bilge until all the loose crap is out and then pressure clean as much of it as I can. Just the sheer turbulence of the pressure cleaner should loosen up most of the remaining sludge and gunk on the sides!
 
G'day Cameron,

It all depends on what the gunk inside your tank consists of.

If it was like mine, and had to be virtually chipped out, then unless you open up the tank, no amount of pressure cleaning will get it all out. There could be internal baffles inside, to stop sloshing, and crud can be shelterd by these baffles.

One way I have internally cleaned out a tank with minimal scale is to put in some gravel with sharp corners, and tie it to a cement mixer bowl and let it rotate for a few hours, in different positions, to internally grit-blast it. The only downside is that you have to make sure that you get all the gravel out afterwards.

If you want some pictures of what I had to deal with, and how I did it, email me at bronline(@)internode(DOT)on(DOT)net

Bruce.
 
i think if you have gone to the expense of engine(s) rebuild i would just bite the bullet and go with new tank(s).....and hoses.... ethanol is a better cleaner than non ethanol and the tank cleaning job would have to be perfect or with time the ethanol will break crud loose..just my opinion but i just went thru this with a new 4 cycle outboard..
 
i think if you have gone to the expense of engine(s) rebuild i would just bite the bullet and go with new tank(s).....and hoses.... ethanol is a better cleaner than non ethanol and the tank cleaning job would have to be perfect or with time the ethanol will break crud loose..just my opinion but i just went thru this with a new 4 cycle outboard..

Ayuh,.... Agreed,.... Aluminum tanks are Ok, but corrode,...

I buy nothin' but Plastic now a days,...

Check out these guys,....
 
The big problem with buying new tanks is that they will have to be custom-made.

In my case, the tank is under the front floor, and triangulated, multiple ways, and it was cheaper to fix it
than make a new one.

Picture 079-1024.jpg

Bruce.
 
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