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Help! Lower unit water. Still happening

I recently rebuilt my lower unit(CLUTCH DOG), took extra time to reseal everything just right. new: spagetti seal, propshaft seal, new prop o-ring. sealed up as good as can be (used some RTV black). was careful not to overtourque screws. Took out for test run, had motor in water for 4 hrs. Later, upon checking my lower unit oil, about 2 Tbls. water came out and then the usual creamy 80W-90 following. Its not the water amount that used to show up in there, but i figured I,d have none. Also, why does my oil come out creamy? i did not rtv the lower unit to the leg (exhaust housing) there was no sign of any seal there. Where else could it be getting in?? thanks for any and all help.
 
You may be getting water from bad water pump seals.
Since you just rebuilt the lower unit, it may be possible that there is a leak from the new rebuild.
I think, if you rinse out the milky oil and replace it with new and run the engine on muffs, if the oil turns milky or water enters the gear case than the seals in the water pump are leaking. If the oil stays clean or no water gets in, than there probably is a leak in the seals of the rebuild.
Good luck
Bill
 
Best test is to remove the oil, slightly pressurize the case, and look for bubbles while the LU is immersed in fresh water. If you don't have a LU pump, or can't borrow one, there should still be instructions on the net on how to make one out of an old bicycle pump. I agree with Bill--every LU I have ever had trouble with was caused by the driveshaft seals under the waterpump.
 
You don't say what motor but there is also a seal on the shift rod that is often over looked for replacement. Also RTV doesn't seem to hold well between the oil, water and some pressure build up. Try some SealsAll or Permetex Aviation 3. Use it around all the seals prior to installation and on the spaghetti seal to help that area.
 
yes,what engine?....i use 3m weather strip adhesive on sp seals,which,is as tacky as omc adhesive m...u need it to stay where put,during assm.
 
The screws can leak in water too as they are located inside the spaghetti. Shift rod seal is not a high failure but can happen if rod is pulled out all the way with a burr on the coupling end. Most likely not your sealant, but possible if all oil traces were not cleaned. Seal under water pump or the gasket there is my suspect. Your model likely has a seal retainer housing under the water pump which has a gasket under it that might have been disturbed when you changed the dog out. Note: Make sure you are locking all the way into both forward and reverse......any slop or misadjustment will wipe out your new dog and/or gears. Its usually not corrected properly after the transmission work. The slop in the shifter has to be corrected as thats likely what caused the original failure.
 
don/t forget the nylon washer under the heads of the lube plugs.

It took quite a few flushes to get all of the old milky oil of mine.
 
Gentlemen, first,thanks for all the input. i replaced the seal and gasket in and under the water pump. the shift rod bushing does show some slop, but still in pretty good shape. i mean it moves side to side maybe a micron. Mr. guido2 has me worried about the linkage adjust for the clutch. i could find nothing in my seloc man. concerning shift link adjust. i really dont want to lose my brand new clutch ($$). it seems to shift fine. where does it adjust if needed, and what would indicate that it needs to be done. Again thanks to all of you. OH! 61' 10hp evinrude sportwin
 
If the shifter fails to fully engage either gear the linkage would need to be adjusted at the lever. Most damage to the clutch dog and gears is caused by improper shifting technique. Idle down the motor and quickly engage the shift lever in or out of gear. Don't baby it into gear. The gears themselves are always turning with the driveshaft and when the clutch engages it locks the chosen gear to the propshaft. When shifting slowly it causes the dog to bang itself into position rather than sliding in quick hence the rounded off edges of the dog and gear tabs.
 
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