when I see these symptoms it is usually that the tip of the 813442A manual release has broken off inside the pump. The only way to do quality fix it is to remove system from boat, completely disassemble and then carefully find and remove the broken off nylon tip. The system will never work right again until the tip and all shreds of debris are removed from the innards of your system.
Sometimes the manual release screw is not the initial problem. Sometimes it gets broken while the owner is trying to figure out the real problem. In these cases, it is often a bit of debris wedged up inside the 809879A check assembly. Not too often on that though. For your year i show that both the 3w (black plug) and 2w (yellow plug) have the good design pump/valve body modeled after the original chrysler-force design. That would be Tee style pump body with shuttle activator. If you find that you have a rocker arm pump then it is quite possible for your repair to go very bad very rapidly. The rocker arm depends upon flow volume rather than pure pressure and is prone to failure with the slightest bits of debris wedged inside inaccessible fluids channels. But, being a 95 you should have the good pump.
Sometimes the trim spool is badly rusted. Well, actually, the trim spool is almost always badly rusted but sometimes the rust gets bad enough to cause failure. A design shortcoming allows water to collect on the trim spool. Sometimes the spring just weakens to the point that it can't hold anything. Sometimes debris gets caught inside the spool assembly. This is usually fixed right up with a 809873A trim limit valve kit.
If you add up the cost of all these parts and kits it's about $300 just for parts alone and leaves a few bit missing. So obviously, you will want to figure out what it is before going and buying every possible part.
