auto oil / pre-mix 2005 150hp

I have just purchased a 2005 johnson 150 saltwater edition. The oil tank and acessories did not come with the motor for the auto oil injection. I will hook it up later when i can afford to purchase everything, but what do I need to do to run the motor on pre-mixed gas for a little while. The marina capped off the oil lines for me to hear it run, but i need to know what to unhook on the electrical side. Thanks in advance for any help.

Re: auto oil / pre-mix

The 4 wire connector from the VRO pump will need to be disconnected to cancel the oil alarm.

If the motor has been run only briefly since the oil system was disconnected, you can probably hook it back up and run it normally.

If you intend to use it with out the auto oiling for any length of time, you'll need to replace the VRO pump when you put the rest of the system back in. I had one that was run dry for a year or so. When I bought the boat, I hooked it back up but could not get a consistant oil delivery. I replaced the pump and everything worked fine. I took apart the old pump and found the O rings on the oil piston degraded from running dry.

If I were in your shoes, I'd find the tank and stuff right away. If that isn't possible, run a hose to a quart jug of oil or something to keep the pump good. Without the proper tank and lines, I'd probably pre mix along with it to make sure the motor is getting what it needs for lube.

Re: auto oil / pre-mix

I agree with dcramer to hook it up right away if you're going to. There's only one part you need - assuming you have a functioning VRO/OMS fuel pump - is the tank. It will come with the hose and electrical wire and connection.

As for affordability, new, it would be about $150 locally for you I'd imagine. Ebay prices for new is usually <$100, used $50-$75. Search for "oil tank" and something like Johnson or Evinrude to get started.


Hooking it up and testing function and alarms is easy to follow in the service manual, or if you're confused, just post here for easy step-by-step instructions.

The only thing you need to be aware of is that there are two basic "types" when it comes to the electronics in the tank (to signal low oil condition), and this relates to how the warning signals work.

The two types are "system check" gauges and non-system check gauges, all you need to know is which system you have and get the right tank. I think system check types are often labeled "1996 (95??) and newer". As long as you get the right type, the electrical connections will be either plug and play or easy enough to adapt with barrel connectors. But you can't adapt system check to non-system check and vice versa because that difference is in the actual electronics in the tank.

Get the newest one you can, with the solid plastic cap (not the cap with the clear plastic top), and make sure you're getting all the mounting hardware for easiest installation (although that stuff can be figured out).