2003 18 hp Tohatsu 4stroke AutoByStarter (choke)

Ok, after dealing with the hard starting for a year or so, I broke down and bought a new AutoByStarter. (I did by the way, disassemble the one I had so now I know how it works!) Anyway, there are 2 yellow wires coming out of it, with no indication which is positive and which is negative. Can anyone elaborate on if there is a correct method of connecting those two yellow wires with male connectors, to the two female connectors? Or does it make no difference? The manual has no specifics on the connection details...just shows the 2 wires.
Thanks,
Wayne

Re: 03 18hp Tohatsu 4stroke AutoByStarter (choke)

Did you test the auto-by-starter solenoid first, before purchasing the 3R3034100M AUTO-BY-STARTER ASSY at a cost of $139.02? They don't fail all that often. More common is varnishing in the idle circuit of the carb. Testing the solenoid is easily done... Connect 12v to the leads, and it will slowly move the plunger if it is working. But since you cut the old one open and "disassemble the one I had so now I know how it works!", I suppose you already know that. If you are using the Factory service manual, you will note (and this is true on all Tohatsu motors), that if the color code is identical, the wires can be interchanged at the bullet connectors, and work correctly.

Re: 03 18hp Tohatsu 4stroke AutoByStarter (choke)

Yes, I have done the solenoid test exactly as you describe, and there was no movement at all (I have a post from about a year ago describing the issue, complete with pictures ). Anyway, after I saved the $ for a new one, I took the old one apart, and put the small "thermostat" onto a warm eye on the stove, and indeed, the pin did move! So now, with a brand new AutoByStarter, the question will be, is there power coming from the 2 yellow female leads, such that it activates the small "thermostat" when the engine heats up....and I won't know until after this weekend when I will have the chance to install and test the new one.

Regarding the vanishing on the idle circuit of the carb, part of my post of a year ago described completely removing, disassembling and soaking the carb for a few days in a gallon of Chem-Dip. It really was not varnished or dirty, but it couldn't hurt so I did it. After that, I have always ran the gas out, and drained the carb, after each outing...but I would be interested in learning more of where you think there may be some varnishing that would be causing the horrible cold starting process. Once the engine starts, and I run it and it warms up, it performs like a Tohatsu should....flawlessly. Anyway, we'll see if my new ABS solves the problem, and I have my fingers crossed.

Thanks much for the reply....and for addressing the color coded wire connection nugget...obviously I skipped over some very important verbiage in my read, so I'll turn the pages more slowly this weekend!

Regards,
Wayne

Re: 03 18hp Tohatsu 4stroke AutoByStarter (choke)

Okay, since the thermal element is working, either the heater was/is bad or the power source for the heater wasn't/isn't delivering.

Hopefully you will find that the motor is delivering power to the yellow leads when running. If so, and if the old heater was bad, then the new ABS unit should have you working. Keep in mind that the ABS is a sort of "reverse" choke, in that activating it causes the motor to run leaner.

Re: 03 18hp Tohatsu 4stroke AutoByStarter (choke)

Just a quick followup...and confirming that the new ABS, along with a fresh set of spark plugs, has my 18hp Tohatsu running like a brand new one. It is a dream engine! When starting cold, only a couple of times with the electric start is all it takes, and within 30 seconds, one can feel the top of the ABS warming up, and the RPM's slowing to the perfect idle, so I know the ABS is working perfectly. I am in love (again), with my Tohatsu....thanks all for the input and helping me get my outboard motor back in flawless condition.

Wayne

i have had a simular problem.yet the engine starts 1st or 2nd pull then once run 4 a few mins it dies.however if i dissconect the two wires she will keep running.i removed s plugs after about 40 mins of running and they were carboned up so im guessing that it was constantly choking.ordering new part hopefully that will cure it.
neil

bassjedi said:

i have had a simular problem.yet the engine starts 1st or 2nd pull then once run 4 a few mins it dies.however if i dissconect the two wires she will keep running.i removed s plugs after about 40 mins of running and they were carboned up so im guessing that it was constantly choking.ordering new part hopefully that will cure it.
neil

Click to expand...

Doubtful. It sounds like your ABS is doing its job, leaning the motor as it heats. More likely is that the carb is too lean from varnishing, and the abs, while working properly, allows the carb to get to the too-lean condition. We see this all the time with manual-choke motors of all sizes and makes... they will run with partial choke, because the carb needs a good cleaning.

BTW... this is a new problem, of a different kind... much better to start a new thread instead of tagging onto the almost-2-year-old one.

carb has been stripped and cleaned v well i put 12v to the abs and there was no movement on the plunger or needle and would say that it is stuck in the extended position it does get quite warm after a few mins with a cicuit tester it is a short. no movement.what i hadnt mentioned was the engine had been under for 4-5hrs salt water and i have rebuilt the engine as sand got in her but every peice was soaked in deisel then cleaned with petrol and mildly lubed with oil b4 replaceing cheers for your feed back im not much cop with computers hence no new thread but good mechanicaly electrics can b a nightmare but u have me thinking about the carb cos all it would take is 1 grain of sand or a bit of salt.

I think you are on the right track by looking at the carb again.

Since you are getting different results when running with the ABS connected vs disconnected, it is clearly doing something. Since it heats up, that tells me that power is getting to the ABS, and the heater in it is working. Depending on what you used for a "circuit tester", the heating coil may show as zero ohms, or complete short, so that does not mean that it's bad.

I would do a complete disassembly of the carb -- including jets and emulsion tube nozzle, followed by a 4-hour soak in real carb dip, then a blow-out with carb cleaner... and then a careful reassembly/adjustment.

cheers will do thanks again.

Re: 03 18hp Tohatsu 4stroke AutoByStarter (choke)

Can you help me on this subject Paul. I’m trying to sort out which power leads to use for the auto-by-start.

You really should start a new thread; However, are you talking about testing the ABS solenoid? If so, 12v is all you need. On the motor, there are 2 bullet connectors for it.