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1956 7.5 evinrude model 7520

W

webrx

New member
Hi all,

I just picked up a 1956 evinrude fleetwin 7.5 hp. no plugs, not starter rope that had been sitting for 2 years. Got it home, cleaned it up, put a rope on it, and squirted some oil and a little starter fluid in it to see if it would kick over adn stuck in a couple of plugs. First pull, it fired up!

On the motor itself there is a 3 prong fuel quick connect one says fuel, one says air. I am suspecting this means that is is a pressurized tank system. The guy that sold it to me said it did not need a pressurized tank, but he got it off his boss, etc......

Now, here is the question, I don't have a pressurized fuel tank, but if I am correct, this engine needs one. So how do I find out for sure, and if I need one, where do I get one. Or what do I do to convert it over.

What is confusing to me additionally is I did pick up a 3 prong tank from this guy, but there is no pumper button on it and the 3rd (flat prong) does not appear to have any holes in it so I don't suspect it is a pressurized tank. Just took some pics and will try to post them.

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thanks in advance for any help

Dave
 
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Re: 1956 evinrude model 7520

yes you need a pressurized tank
I have a 1955 7.5

Looks like you have the wrong tank
mine has a pump to pressurize it

Antique outboard motor club.com

They have plenty of stuff listed for old motors

Steve
 
Re: 1956 evinrude model 7520

Thanks,

That's what I figured on the tank. I read about converting these and wondered why you couldn't just hook up a little electric pump to one of these older motors. You would have to figure out how to block off the pressure port from the motor, but other then that, am I missing something? I mean, I have a battery in the boat already for the trolling motor. Anyone tried anything like this?

d
 
Re: 1956 evinrude model 7520

Well,

I have decided to do the fuel pump conversion with the mikuni pulse pump. Ordered the pump, once it gets here I will do it and let you know how it goes. unless somone know of a better way to do this on a 7.5.

Thanks

d
 
Re: 1956 evinrude model 7520

you will be happy with the conversion and your wallet will to it took me about 1hr and half to do mine and im glad i did
 
Re: 1956 evinrude model 7520

I am hoping the coversion goes well. I tried to run her in a tank yesterday with a gravity drain tank. I was able to get her to start for a second, but there was no fuel getting to the plugs. I took the carb apart and it appears that the previous owner left fuel in the bowl. Needle valve was gummed up, everything was glazed over. I dissassembled everything, cleaned it all up and put it back to together. Tried again, and bingo, the engine ran. I only had a few ounces of gas, so this was like a 2 minute test.

Question: after rebuild, cleanout, etc of the carb what is a good starting point for the high speed and low speed adjust screws. On a car I set it at 3 turns out then adjust from there - I don't know where to set the screws on an evinrude 7.5 as a good starting point any help would be appreciated.
 
Re: 1956 evinrude model 7520

go through the older post and look under irishwoodsman mr joerives told me how in another post i have the same engine you have
 
Re: 1956 evinrude model 7520

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-John...tc?refid=store
 
Re: 1956 evinrude model 7520

Thanks for the carb adjustment notes, these will definately come in handy. Now just gotta wait for the pulse pump.

dave
 
Re: 1956 evinrude model 7520

I haven't seen it asked or mentioned so I'll throw it in here. The fuel/oil mixture for that engine is 24/1...... 1 quart of TCW-III 50/1 oil to 6 gallons of gasoline. A octane rating of 87 will be fine.
 
Re: 1956 evinrude model 7520

Thanks Joe, planned on 24 to 1. I have an old sea king that I run at 24 to 1 also so already have the mix in a tank.

d
 
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