1969-1971 Johnson 60hp

Dear Joe and everyone,
Recently I had a post about no spark on this motor with a single auto coil. Thanks to Joe, I attached the red wire of the powerpack to the rectifier terminal to get 12V going into the powerpack. It immediately gave strong spark in all cylinders. I attached the fuel and got it to start up and run with the cold start throttle lever up. Unfortunately, I shut this sayin lever and the motor died out. I couldn't get it to start again. I took out the 3 carburators and cleaned them up real good with aircompressor blowing thru everything. I reinstalled and reset the idle needles to 1 1/2 turn open. I can not fire it up again. It drained a couple batteries I have and can't get it to start. Also, the gas seems to be flooded back out of the carbs where the choke flies are.
Can you please help me point out what possible be the issue?
I took out the carbs and recleaned again today. No better result. I rechecked the spark; all are there still. I used QL77JC4 plugs setting at .030 inches gap. Did almost everything I could from learning on this site and from Joe. It has been a hot week and I've been burnt out from this motor.
Please help me!
Thank you much in advance.

Assuming that you really do have proper compression and spark...............

Check the flywheel key to make sure it hasn't sheared. Flywheel nut must be torqued to 105 foot pounds, otherwise it will shear and damage the flywheel and crankshaft tapers.

Check the points as follows.

(Point Setting Of Battery Capacitance Discharge)
( Ignition Models - 1968 thru 1972)
(Some have points - Some do not)

(Joe Reeves)
The points must be set to .010 but no wider than .010..... BUT in some instances due to a possible slight inaccurately machined crankshaft lobe or a slight offset of one set of points, a setting slightly less than .010 would be required as follows.

Whether the crankshaft has two or three lobes, when setting the points, check the setting of the points on each individual lobe by rotating the crankshaft by hand.

You may find that setting one set of points to .010 on one lobe, then turning the crankshaft to the next lobe, the gap measures .011 or .012 (too wide). This is where you would need to close that gap down to the required .010. A gap too wide can result in a ignition miss when throttle is applied.

Bottom line, pertaining to the point setting at the various lobe locations____ .010, .010, .009, is okay____ .010, .010, .011 is not!

Double check carburetors as follows.

(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)
Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.
When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thank you very much Joe. I've actually took the flywheel off and did reset the gap, cleaned the carb and did adjust the float, all of these before I got it to run for a few minutes. Now it doesn't start up anymore, spark is still there and it does not make sense why it started it once does not start now! Seems to be flooded all the time.
Anyways, I will burn myself some more this week.
Thanks for the instructions.

Ways engine would flood.........

Float level set wrong.
Float needle shut off valve faulty.
Choke butterflies stuck or accuated to be shut.
Fuel pump diaphragm ruptured.

Found it Joe. Fuel pump diaphram is ruptured! Lord, you are the God of these motors and us users!

Good for you..... a rather cheap fix for once.

joereeves said:

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)
Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.
When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Click to expand...

Therein lies the rub for me. I don't have a clue how to PROPERLY set rpms with the butterflies fully closed.

This thread us 8 years, 3 months, 13 days old. Treat these old posts as you would a library book... Read it but don't write in it.

Start your own post with your own title, listing what engine you're speaking of... and its exact problem. However, as long as I'm here... back the idle stop screw away from the throttle arm at the engine if one exists, then adjust the idle rpm with the adjustable trunion on the throttle cable if it exists.

I will not answer anything further on this thread... Now, start anew with your own new post.