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NS5B Couple of questions please...

M

Muddywaters1

New member
First of all...nice site and looks very informative. Being a member of an Early Corvette site (C-3) did I utilize the search, but did not find what I was looking for regarding my new (old) one lunger:(...

I aquired this Nissan 5, as it was clinging to a 1968 Santana 22 sailboat. btw: this whole set up, boat, motor rust and what have you...was a freebee, as a give away on C.Lists:D. Im now in the process of a full restoration.

The motor acutally looks pretty good...and now starts up very easly after some minor tweaking to the air fuel mix. I noticed on our first outing that the motor, no matter if it was ideling (out of gear or in) half speed or full...seems to have a vibration (shakes the darn boat).

To isolate the prop...I removed it. Same results. I am wondering if the vibration is the nature of this little beast? Freash gas, new plug and seems to run good, except for the vibration.

Any ideas??

Also... I have a nice stream of water coming out of the Pee hole....Is there supposed to be water coming out of the exhaust, with the exhaust, (half way down the lower unite)?? I have only exhaust gas! Also, around half throttle and up...it starts to smoke (white smoke) but quites at idle. Again any ideas??

Thanks in advance!! Muddy

Note: Any idea of the age of this little guy #369-1 47041
 
The 5B is the last major revision of the old 2-strokers. Mature design, few problems. Nearly bulletproof. As a 1-cylinder, it will vibrate a bit at idle, but should be reasonably smooth at half throttle and above. In general, the 5B will shake less than a new NSF5 4-stroke at idle, as there're twice as many power strokes. (A 4-stroke only fires every second time the piston comes up to TDC). On small sailboats, a common vibration issue is a worn/cheap/shaky motor mount. If you have a scissor-type or telescoping mount on the transom, see if it's loose or floppy. If so, that's your vibration "amplifier". Otherwise, I have only seen teeth-chattering vibration from these when they had a bad prop or a bent driveshaft.

If the pee tube is flowing, you have a pressurized cooling system, and that's OK. These are thru-hub exhaust, and the vast majority of the cooling water exits with the exhaust. The idle relief hole above the waterline normally will not have much, if any cooling water come out of it.

2-smoke motors will smoke a bit, since they are burning oil (50:1 premix of TCW-3 for your 5B), and the more RPM, the more smoke. Check your spark plug. If it's blasted clean white, you are getting some water in the combustion chamber, and repairs are indicated. If not, your smoke is probably typical, especially is it has a bluish tint. Old 2-strokes can often benefit from a decarbon procedure, which may reduce your smoke. Nissan/Tohatsu "Engine Tuner" spray is very good for that.

You can contact Nissan Marine at http://www.nissanmarine.com/contact.html to see if they have a year of manufacture on file for your serial number.
 
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pvanv said:
The 5B is the last major revision of the old 2-strokers. Mature design, few problems. Nearly bulletproof. As a 1-cylinder, it will vibrate a bit at idle, but should be reasonably smooth at half throttle and above. In general, the 5B will shake less than a new NSF5 4-stroke at idle, as there're twice as many power strokes. (A 4-stroke only fires every second time the piston comes up to TDC). On small sailboats, a common vibration issue is a worn/cheap/shaky motor mount. If you have a scissor-type or telescoping mount on the transom, see if it's loose or floppy. If so, that's your vibration "amplifier". Otherwise, I have only seen teeth-chattering vibration from these when they had a bad prop or a bent driveshaft.

If the pee tube is flowing, you have a pressurized cooling system, and that's OK. These are thru-hub exhaust, and the vast majority of the cooling water exits with the exhaust. The idle relief hole above the waterline normally will not have much, if any cooling water come out of it.

2-smoke motors will smoke a bit, since they are burning oil (50:1 premix of TCW-3 for your 5B), and the more RPM, the more smoke. Check your spark plug. If it's blasted clean white, you are getting some water in the combustion chamber, and repairs are indicated. If not, your smoke is probably typical, especially is it has a bluish tint. Old 2-strokes can often benefit from a decarbon procedure, which may reduce your smoke. Nissan/Tohatsu "Engine Tuner" spray is very good for that.

You can contact Nissan Marine at http://www.nissanmarine.com/contact.html to see if they have a year of manufacture on file for your serial number.
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Paul, thanks heaps for your reply:) Yes, the vibration does clean up with RPM...but dose still vib...Looks like I'll have to live with it. Yea, I do not have a tele.s. transome mount. The mount is fixed...maybe if I (after the restore) cushion that area with some thick rubber so as to dampen...

My idle relieve hole (just above the waterline) does not produce water...just exhaust gas...This is the reason I thought it was smoking abit. I was thinking that if some water was supposed to exit that outlet...it would take some of the smoke with it... Looks a bit excess to me. I was thinking...tear it down, hone the cylinder, then slap a new set of rings into it...

Yes, the smoke is bluish....tint! I'll double check the plug. If water is getting in...where would it be coming from? Thanks!

And thank you for the link!!:D Muddy

btw: Would the above link have new decals? The reason I ask....Im going to strip the the little engine, prime with epoxy (or maybe powercoat) then repaint. Again thanks!!
 
Consider de-carboning the motor per the instructions on a can of Tohatsu/Nissan Engine Tuner to clean up coke buildup in the chamber and exhaust passages.

The newer Garelick mounts are pretty solid... but also pretty costly.

Don't jump to conclusions... Water intrusion is rare on these, but might come from a crack in the cooling system. Plug condition will tell you a lot.

If they are still in stock in the US, any Tohatsu/Nissan dealer can order cowl decals for you. If there's no dealer in your area, drop me an email at [email protected] and I'll check on those cosmetic bits for you. Also, you can probably benefit from a High Thrust "elephant ear" prop.
 
Thanks Paul...much appreciated. Did get an email back from Nissan...and the decals are not available for my engine...but are for 93-98 Black/gray. btw: This 5B is a 92 so, looks like I missed the decals by a year:( Looks like I may have to did out the air brush.

Little bugger is running a little eratic lately, pulled the plug and it's a touch wet. I also noticed after pulling the carb intake shield (for a lack of a bette word) looking down the throat of the carb (while rev'ing) the fuel spray is not misty...but some what irregular (spirts like).

Muddy
 
Try internetoutboards.com for the decal set. They have around 15 sets of the blue/red decals left in inventory...Tell them they are on pallet 15 or 16.
 
Muddywaters1 said:
Thanks Paul...much appreciated. Did get an email back from Nissan...and the decals are not available for my engine...but are for 93-98 Black/gray. btw: This 5B is a 92 so, looks like I missed the decals by a year:( Looks like I may have to did out the air brush.

Little bugger is running a little eratic lately, pulled the plug and it's a touch wet. I also noticed after pulling the carb intake shield (for a lack of a bette word) looking down the throat of the carb (while rev'ing) the fuel spray is not misty...but some what irregular (spirts like).

Muddy
Click to expand...

Check for malformed or cracked reeds if the spitting is significant.
 
tohatsu_guru said:
Try internetoutboards.com for the decal set. They have around 15 sets of the blue/red decals left in inventory...Tell them they are on pallet 15 or 16.
Click to expand...

Guru: Sorry for the delay...been going at the Santana hard! BTW: Painted the 5B top engine cover yesterday....after stripping it all the way down, primered, filled, primered, then shot Awlgrip....looks pretty good!

Thanks heaps for the info regarding the decals. I'll call them. The color scheme will still work...(decals) as I shot the cover Manhatten white...which is the color of the boat. Again...thank you!
 
pvanv said:
Check for malformed or cracked reeds if the spitting is significant.
Click to expand...

Pvanv: I'll do that, thanks! Once the paint is on this Sanatana (this weekend), I can get to the smaller issues, like taking the carb apart (carb cleaner) and as you indicate...check the reeds! I did manage a shop manual, Nissan OutBoard Shop Manual 2.5 - 140 Hp, 1992-2000 B793....but, I tell ya...sure is vague! :confused:. You all have a great weekend! Muddy
 
pvanv said:
Sounds like you have an aftermarket "doorstop" manual. The Factory manual is a lot better.
Click to expand...

Perfect description..."Doorstop" LOL! Hey Paul, before I dump the manual for an OEM or for that matter the 5B if it does not pan out, ( I'll cruise the 5B this summer with the Santana 22 for a trial). Having said that... I am not familiar with the 22 or the 5B...Q. is the 5B adequate for the 22? Mostly sailer here...but, next summer will be taking the 22 up in the Delta...probably lots of motering & or current. You mentioned the Elephant Ear? Advise? Thanks! Muddy
 
tohatsu_guru said:
Try internetoutboards.com for the decal set. They have around 15 sets of the blue/red decals left in inventory...Tell them they are on pallet 15 or 16.
Click to expand...

I emailed them via their site...responed quickly and informed me...no longer available:confused:. Needless to say, I indicated the pallet via your recomendation. Think I should try again? Thanks! Muddy
 
Muddy,

The 399B645121 is intended for the new 4-stroke 6 hp "sail pro". The shaft size is the same, and it will fit/run on the 2-stroke 5 just fine. Provides better low-speed thrust, as it has "elephant ear" blades.
 
Paul, Guru...I have my carb sitting in cleaner....popped off the head, cleaned carbon, and water deposits in the water channel. Q. Would it be a good idea to hone the cylinder while I have the head off...if so, what grit? I have no gouges or scrapes...looks pretty clean and smooth. I checked compression...but, every time I pull the chord...the compression keeps going up...reached 90PSI before I stopped...Thanks Muddy
 
Depending on the dimensions now, (do you have telescoping gauges and micrometers to measure out-of round and taper in the bore?) cylinder work could lead to a re-bore, which could lead to a new piston and rings, which may or may not be available. Much time and money for an old motor that runs fine already. 90 psi is fine for the old one-lung 5B... clearly the rings are well set... so, if it were mine, I'd leave it as is.
 
pvanv said:
Depending on the dimensions now, (do you have telescoping gauges and micrometers to measure out-of round and taper in the bore?) cylinder work could lead to a re-bore, which could lead to a new piston and rings, which may or may not be available. Much time and money for an old motor that runs fine already. 90 psi is fine for the old one-lung 5B... clearly the rings are well set... so, if it were mine, I'd leave it as is.
Click to expand...

Gotcha...my line of reasoning, was to not actually hone... but, put a light scratch on the wall. Thanks! Muddy
 
Paul, Members... Well, looks like I really goofed now.:( I was dismantleing the the 5B (So as to paint lower end),and broke the shifter handle, dang it! Anyway, now have the new one here, and can clearly see...it did not actually slip off the spline like I was prying it to do:confused: hmmmm. Now I'm wondering how much I have to take a part to install the new shifter? Please advise.

My manual (Door stop manual) does not have a drawing or mention it removal or install.

Sure could use some help! Thanks Muddy

Here is what she looks like today... btw: The cowel paint scheme is the same as the Santana...:D All paint is Awlgrip.

NS5B-opt.jpg
 
You pop the powerhead off the top of the exhaust housing to access the interior end of the shift handle. You will want a 10mm socket. Reassemble with a new base gasket.

Nice looking paint...
 
Thanks Paul! To remove the powerhead...would those 10mm be the (6)six bolts I can see from the bottom (outside looking up) of the lower houseing?

Thanks for the complement! I used an alumin. sealer, high build primer...faired (sanded), then shot the Awlgrip. Friend of mine, has a 68 Corvette (I have a completely self restored 72 LT-1) Tom gave me his old fender STINGRAY emblems... I'll attache them just above the red line. Hey, Nissan didn't have the decals...so she's now a STINGRAY!:D
 
Yep, those are the bolts. Don't forget the new base gasket. I would also replace the o-rings on the shifter shaft while it's apart. Be careful you don't drop/lose the ceramic ball and spring for the shift detent. You can see everything in the parts catalog exploded diagrams on Elvin's site at http://www.internetoutboards.com/PartsCatalogMenu.htm. Of course, I will take this opportunity to harp on that Factory service manual thing as well.
 
pvanv said:
Yep, those are the bolts. Don't forget the new base gasket. I would also replace the o-rings on the shifter shaft while it's apart. Be careful you don't drop/lose the ceramic ball and spring for the shift detent. You can see everything in the parts catalog exploded diagrams on Elvin's site at http://www.internetoutboards.com/PartsCatalogMenu.htm. Of course, I will take this opportunity to harp on that Factory service manual thing as well.
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul!;) Yea, I ordered the base gasket...but, will call them Monday to also order the O-rings. Thanks!! I'm guessing the O-rings stop exhaust from leaking through the gear shift shaft??

Yes, I did catch the spring and ball! Needless to say, it did attempt to escape...LOL

Nice link for the parts catalog...again thanks and have a great weekend!! Muddy
 
Muddywaters1 said:
I emailed them via their site...responed quickly and informed me...no longer available:confused:. Needless to say, I indicated the pallet via your recomendation. Think I should try again? Thanks! Muddy
Click to expand...

I would...I'll send them an email as well. We transfered 18 pallets of parts up to them in March and I doubt that they have figured out where anything is yet:)
 
tohatsu_guru said:
I would...I'll send them an email as well. We transfered 18 pallets of parts up to them in March and I doubt that they have figured out where anything is yet:)
Click to expand...

Thanks Tahatsu!! Sounds exactly as you state! Anyway...already went with my paint scheme...so as stated...she's a Stingray now, LOL. I'll up a pic when the little bugger is completed. Runs like a top now!! Soaked the carb in cleaner, de-carboned the head area, new head gasket, new water pump kit... Here is what she will be pushing...Santana 22 hull # 182 1968, Near complete.:DMuddy

More Awlgrip out of my Costco makeshift paint booth...:rolleyes:

Hull-completed.jpg
 
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