BF 115 alarms

"Can anyone help with this...

"Can anyone help with this... Went out the other day and after 15 min travel had alarms sounding. The engine warning light was flashing, I have the 2 warning lights one eng and one battery light.. The engine didnt seem to be over heating as the tell tale had a good flow of only luke warm water and the temp light on the throttle was not on. Went home and spoke to my local dealer who told me how to retrieve the codes with a bridge wire across the red diagnostic plug near the ecm. Came up with 6 short flashes. Water temp sender or open circuit in temp circuit. I removed the sender and found a lot of salt deposit covering the tip of the sender, Cleaned the gallery out and replaced the sensor thinking i had fixed the fault as no alarms sounded went run for for 20min on the hose.. But after a test run on the water for 15 min the alarms sounded again.
Now when brigeing the plug i have 6 short 2 long and 4 short flashes..
I have ordered a shop manual online but have too wait for shipping and we are right in the middle of a prime barramundi season which really sucks.. So need help bad..
I have checked the water pump, thermostat and sender resistance all ok. The engine doesnt seem to be getting hot, tell tale not hot and no steam from the exuast.. But it is strange that it takes 10 too 15 minates of load times to fault, temp fault ??????
My engine serial BZBD-1301114 (ON THE FRAME) and BEBD- 1006458 on the valve cover can any help would be much appreciated... cheers grant...."

"First of all, is the audible

"First of all, is the audible alarm a steady or pulsing sound?

Do you not have two other lights on your key switch assembly or shift box ( a red and a green)? The red would come on steady (with steady audible) for an overheat and the green is always on which the engine is running...indicating good oil pressure.

DID YOU CLEAR THE CODE? If you have a kill switch button, that you can push in to stop the engine, do this.

Put your shorting device in.
Turn the key switch on.
Within 20 seconds after the key switch is turned on, push in the stop button 5 times (slowly)...
On the last (5th) push, hold the button in for a few seconds until you hear your alarm sound two or three beeps.
Then turn the key off and take out your shorting device out.

The light is flashing to indicate that there is a problem with the sensors or their signals not that the engine is overheating.

So your sensors are either bad, not receiving voltage, not sending voltage or shorted.

As you said the 6 short indicates that your ECT sensor has a problem. The 2 long and 4 short indicates there is a problem with the overheat sensor as well. It is located near the top of the engine just to the left of the top spark plug if you are looking at the rear of the engine.

I think both sensors have the same part number (35673-ZW5-003. If you have a lot of corrosion on both of them, that could cause the problem as your motor warms up...the corrosion could be affecting the connection differently due to the heat.

If you do not find anything obvious with the connections or sensors, you probably have to wait for the manual. It will give you a tree to trouble shoot.

The resistance values on the sensors will vary from about 2 to 3 k ohms when the engine is cold (70 to 80 deg farenheit..which it looks like your temperature is in Australia...to about 400 to 500 ohms at engine operating temperature).

After the connection and sensor check, you have to check the wiring for voltages etc. (4.75 to 5.25 volts) These sensors also share the same voltage lead, which goes to the Engine Control Module (The main computer). That is another connector that you may want to check for corrosion. The pins are very small, so be careful when you remove it and reinstall it.

I hope this helps."

"mike thanks very much for the

"mike thanks very much for the reponse, The alarms have been constant and i have the 2 other lights on the throttle box, the oil light is always on as sould be and the overheat light has not lit up at any time during the alarms, i have checked that each time.
I have cleared the codes and taken the boat for a run and no alarms, but i am lacking power. The engine will only rev too 4500rpm. If i trim it out i can get 5500rpm.
Now when i connect the brigeing wire i get two constant diagnosic lights??? Is this normal or does this mean that there is still a fault?????
I have checked the resistance of both sensors and both have a resistance or approx 1.4 k ohms and both connectors have app 5 volts.Can you think of any other checks, still waiting for the shop manual..
I will give the entyre fuel system a service while i wait just to be sure, always hard too tell if the ecm is derating the engine or if it is a fuel issue..My way of thinking is that the rpm would not increase when triming the engine right up at full throttle if it was the ecm cutting the rpm, not sure. help....."

"The two steady lights mean th

"The two steady lights mean that you have no codes. I looks like you have the sensor issue cleared up.

I hope that the steady audible alarm was a steady on and off beep and not a continuous steady beep. A continuous steady beep indicates an overheat or an oil alert. The way you said your lights were working support the on and off beeping. Your motor will also ultimately shut down too if it is an overheat or an oil alert.

That motor if propped correctly will go 5500 to 6000 rpm. So you are in the ballpark. We generally prop them so they will do about 6000.

Those few hundred rpm could be anything from damage to your prop, accumulated crud on the bottom of the boat, or some other change to the boat. Maybe it never hit 6000, so maybe the prop is not correct.

I think going into the fuel system is good to do in any case.

I would be good if you could test your high pressure fuel pressure...but if you can not...
changing your high pressure fuel filter would be worth the effort if you have not done it. When you do, you will see if there is any impurities in the fuel.

A water separating fuel filter is invaluable with fuel injected engines.

Once you change the filter and clean out the fuel system, use some Mercury Quik Kleen or Sea Faom in your fuel system to help clean the injectors. There is also a screen under the high pressure fuel pump that could accumulate debris if your fuel pressure is way down.

Generally, most of the running problems for the 115's turn out to be bad fuel or spark plugs. So run it on good fresh fuel (with fuel treatment and use NGK spark plugs (ZFR7F)."

"Just took the boat full a sea

"Just took the boat full a sea test and it is running better then the day i brought it. I brought the boat with 40 hrs on the engine. But the guy i brought it off put 40 hrs on it in 4 and a half years, Plenty of time for problems too grow..
The engine has always had a miss on acceleration and has gradually been running ruffer and ruffer on start up... All seems good now. Stuff work im going fishing...

I removed the intake manafold and throttle body and checked the ect sensor was ok, i cleaned the throttle body and checked and cleaned all passages and screens. Went write threw the fuel system replaced all fuel filters, replaced my remote water separator filter, the plastic inline filter on the engine, cleaned out the water trap on the engine and replaced the high pressure fuel filter,, I also cleaned the screen at the bottom of the high pressure pump and the screen at the inlet too the fuel rail.. I also replaced the spark plugs and iam running a fuel additive, we have one called fuel doctor over here.
The engine even hit six grand for the first time ever..
And of course the manual turned up today, just in time , not...
Just one last question for now, in the seloc manual it states that two steady diagnostic lights when fitting the shorting wire means that there is still a fault with the ecm... I am hopeing this is not true as there doesnt seem too be anything wrong now?????
Will go fishing day after tomorrow and hopefully the faith will be resolved in the old honda... Thanks heaps for your mike.....Will keep posting any issues... cheers..."

"With only 40 hours on that en

"With only 40 hours on that engine over a 4 year period, I would suggest that it probably has not been broken in well. Don't know much about the 115's, but the 200's and 225's need a long breakin period in order to properly seat the valves and rings. I would run that engine at WOT as much as possible over the next 100 hours or so."

"Grant,

you in Darwin? &#40

"Grant,

you in Darwin? (from your barra connection)

I am but no fishing till just before easter...

Regards

Chris"

"The manual is wrong... if bot

"The manual is wrong... if both lights are steady with the shorting plug installed, there are no codes."

That's why the S in Seloc

That's why the S in Seloc stands for sucks.

"Cheers guys will not trust th

"Cheers guys will not trust the seloc manual (waste of doe that was) Have orderd the real deal of helm anyway, you always get what you pay for!
Iam a diesel fitter by trade and there is nothing more frustrating then incorrect info when trouble shooting.
A lot of issues seem to be fuel related on here, we have the same poor qaulity waxy crap fuel here in the top end, some servos have more water then fuel in there tanks.
To chawk_man it has 440 hrs now and i made sure it got plenty of load for the first 100. But the damage is done, it uses a little oil probably 1/2 a liter every 100hrs but i can live with that..
Drop us a line line when you go fishing chris allways looking for another boat for the bigger trips. cheers guys..."

"Half liter in 100 hours isn&#

"Half liter in 100 hours isn't bad at all. As you continue to break in the engine, you will likely find less oil consumption because of better ring seating."