Ignition wires on Mercury 98hp

Please let me know where the w

Please let me know where the wires from the breaker points go to? Motor is a Mer 9.8hp year 1972 Serial No. 3264682.
Thank you for any help/advice.
Q.

"If you are talking about the

"If you are talking about the little lead wire that is physically connected to the points themself, they simply connect to a nut which is immediately adjacent to the screw which fastens the points to the base.

The points have two (hold down) screws. This nut is at the opposite end (furthest away) from the little contacts on the points (that open/close)."

"Many thanks and regards to JB

"Many thanks and regards to JB and Graham Lamb for the advice and the drawings. If you can, please confirm that these 2 wires from the breaker points are simply to be connected to the coil's (+) and (-), I'd appreciated very much.
Q."

"Hold it, Pappa-San!

I be

"Hold it, Pappa-San!

I believe Q is talking about the two wires that go to the plastic block on the side of motor. If so, they go no further--that's for an external shutdown (with remote controls).

Jeff"

"Thank you Jeff. The 2 wires

"Thank you Jeff. The 2 wires I am having question are the ones that have the plastic clips and their ends are attached to the breaker points. They are the ones hang on the side of the motor (picture attached here). There are 2 breaker points and 1 condensor on this motor. I've installed and set the breaker points to .020" using the feeler gage and at their highest opening cam set, but now I am not sure if these wires are to attach to one of the coil's positive and negative. Why would 2 same breaker points being attached to 2 different terminal (+) and (-)? Is there something missing from my motor, such as a CDI box or anything?
Thank you for advice or comment. I just don't want to take the flywheel off the 3rd time. It's hard. "

Aaarrgghh! Two types of Mercs

Aaarrgghh! Two types of Mercs used points: Ones that had breaker points (magneto) and ones that had maker points (the first electronic ignition models). Not sure which you have.

I'll have to do some research and get back to you.

Jeff

"I'mmmm baaaack!

That&#

"I'mmmm baaaack!

That's a maker point system. There must be an electronic spark box for it to run. The mysterious wires go to the spark box--they're the trigger wires.

Sorry for the confusion, but you tricked me by talking about "breaker points".

Jeff"

"Thank you Jeff. Not sure wha

"Thank you Jeff. Not sure what spark box I need and hadn't heard of one until now. I have to dig into this myself.
Best of wishes,
Q."

"If that's it, try looking

"If that's it, try looking on eBay for one.

Jeff"

"Yes, just realized as well th

"Yes, just realized as well that, that is a "phase maker" igition (Thunderbolt 2) which came in a few different configurations.

I'm doing some digging here to try and figure out what you have hangin' down there and where it should go.

You should have have 2 pairs of twin leads to feed the sparkplug coils - a pair of green wires (negatives) plus a brown (+1) and white (+2).

From the pic I can't tell the colour of the 2 hangin' wires. If one is black it is simply a ground if the other is a salmon (pink) it would go to a stop switch...."

"(don't like these old

"(don't like these old ignition systems which is why I used to leave them for my Dad when he was still working )

If one is the black wire (stator ground) it will connect to the isolation block on the powerhead (small strip with two posts - can connect to either, it doesn't matter).

I have doctored your pic to put a circle around the isolation block.

And forgot to mention last post, IF your version had the "electrical module", it would have been under the flywheel as well - it wasn't a external box like found on later ignitions.

"

"Thank you Graham.
This is wh

"Thank you Graham.
This is what I got:
Inside the strator plate, there're 2 point sets, each point set connnects to one of those wires. There's a condensor that has a green wire connect to the plate, another terminal from the plate runs another green wire that connects to a (+) of one of the coil. The killswitch (orange wire) connects to the terminal of the same coil. Now, I am left with the wires that come from the set points under the flywheel. Both wires' ends have rubber cover caps so I thought they should connect to each terminal of the 2nd coil (red and round part). Both of those wires are brown in color and in bad shape so I wrap them up with electrical tape. I am lost and near given up on this. But thanks to ya'll great people that support this site and the rookie people like me. I am hanging on to this project.
Y'all the best and make this world a more beautiful place to live.
Q."

"Grab yourself a copy of Seloc

"Grab yourself a copy of Seloc's "Volume 1, Mercury outboard, 1&2 cylinder 1965-91".

It has a whole section on your particular ignition and some limited wiring diagrams as well.

With the book in one hand and the screwdriver in the other you should be able to figure out what is going on and get things back where they belong..."

"Hi! I bought Quang's moto

"Hi! I bought Quang's motor, he made me a good price and is quite a gentleman.

I also bought Seloc manual and it doesn't specifically cover the 110 nor does it full wiring diagrams. The reference web site for the 200 model looks like it was taken from the manual. I think it also has an error on page 5-24 for color references. Black and while photos make it hard to guess colors.

There was enough info in the book to figure out some of the problems. For example the explanation of the system using ~1000V to coil with make rather then break. I wired the ignition like a single cylinder model and got good spark from both sides of the ignition. Even ran the motor on one cylinder for a 10 seconds.

I now know what Quang was talking about with the points. It is possible this was a hack job trying to get a single cylinder ignition to work in a 2 cylinder model or something equally as puzzling.

The point are offset 180 degrees which I assume is for the 180 degree crank. The problem is the cam they run on never allows them to be open at the same time. The schematics show the one lead from the capacitor feeding both coils in a Y configuration. Problem with the current points set up is one of the coils is always grounded.

If the points cam only allowed the points for each cylinder to close for a few degrees it would work as is. Before I take out the arc welder and lathe can someone tell me if I am approaching right? Did they have more then one type of points cam back then?

Rick"

Good news. I gave up on the original wiring, all of the electrical tape you see in the photos was covering decayed and bare wires. I should have used better insulated wire but just used 14 gage wire.

I just made a few minor improvs to the 200 series wiring with the single cylinder wiring diagram and it works about as near perfect as I can hope for.

I took a cell phone movie http://home.earthlink.net/~ricortes/Mercury.3g2 if anyone cares to see it in action. This is pushing a 2 ton Islander Bahama sailboat! Motor is just a bit to big: My son had modified the motor well to fit a Honda and this made the Mercury 110 ride to high and I had to remove the cover to get it to fit.

I have already got my $150 worth out of the motor and at the rate it is currently being used, it will probably be burnt out by the fall. We may use it as the primary engine if the parts for an electric start Honda do not get here in time for 'The Delta Do Dah!' I kind of hope the Honda makes it into action before the Merc gets beat to death. It's a pretty sweet engine and I would like to have it for backup.

Rick