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Diagnostic Honda scanner

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joerada

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What is the proper Honda diagn

What is the proper Honda diagnostic scanner for working on 150HP's and 225HP's? What do they run and where is the best place to pick one up?
 
You can get some basic diagnostics using a Service Check Connector that plugs into the 4-prog red outlet that's under the electronics cover on your engine. Part number 070PZ-ZY30100 - it's about $20.00 online. That allows you to retrieve fault codes from the EPROM in the on-board engine computer - the Electronic Control Module or ECM.

Takeoff the engine cover and the plastic cover over the electronics on the front of the engine. There you will see a red four-pronged female plug. That's where the service check connector plugs in. Alternatively, you can use a paper clip to shunt the lime green/white wire to the black wire – that is, the two wires that are closest to the engine when the red service connector is correctly set in it’s holder. If in doubt, invest in a SCS service connector.

If the MIL comes on, then goes off after a few seconds, there are no codes in the EPROM.

If the MIL starts blinking, then count the blinks, which will indicate the fault code. You may get long blinks and short blinks. For example, two long blinks,followed by five short blinks, would be a fault code 25. The blink sequence will repeat itself until you turn the key off. If there is more than one fault, you will get multiple fault codes. For example, three short blinks, followed by two long blinks and five shortblinks would be fault codes 3 and 25. If you do not have a shop manual, send me an e-mail at [email protected]and I will send you the codes. I blieve the fault codes for the 150 and the 225 are the same.

 
chawk_man said:
You can get some basic diagnostics using a Service Check Connector that plugs into the 4-prog red outlet that's under the electronics cover on your engine. Part number 070PZ-ZY30100 - it's about $20.00 online. That allows you to retrieve fault codes from the EPROM in the on-board engine computer - the Electronic Control Module or ECM.

Takeoff the engine cover and the plastic cover over the electronics on the front of the engine. There you will see a red four-pronged female plug. That's where the service check connector plugs in. Alternatively, you can use a paper clip to shunt the lime green/white wire to the black wire – that is, the two wires that are closest to the engine when the red service connector is correctly set in it’s holder. If in doubt, invest in a SCS service connector.

If the MIL comes on, then goes off after a few seconds, there are no codes in the EPROM.

If the MIL starts blinking, then count the blinks, which will indicate the fault code. You may get long blinks and short blinks. For example, two long blinks,followed by five short blinks, would be a fault code 25. The blink sequence will repeat itself until you turn the key off. If there is more than one fault, you will get multiple fault codes. For example, three short blinks, followed by two long blinks and five shortblinks would be fault codes 3 and 25. If you do not have a shop manual, send me an e-mail at [email protected]and I will send you the codes. I blieve the fault codes for the 150 and the 225 are the same.
Click to expand...
Found this searching for info on trouble shooting the IAC and/or Oxygen sensor. This wins for my favorite post on any Honda forum yet, huge help. Thank you!!
 
I've ordered the Service Check Connector, thanks again. It's arriving some time after Monday.
My port engine is being a butt. It feels like it either has bad gas (although that is negated because the starboard engine is fine...but it feels that way), or the oxygen sensor is being stupid (I have one coming on Sunday). I changed the IAC (EAC) and the port fuel filter. I have not changed the internal fuel filters but I do have them both here and will get those in as well hopefully tomorrow. I have the Honda manual for these engines to translate any error codes. Pulled a plug and it look fine (iridium), assumed if one looked good then they all should be fine.
It won't stay running, simply turns off after 10 or 15 min. of idling. Took it up the creek and you can feel the "catches" or hesitations, one long beep, then it dies. Starts right back up again 9/10.
Any thoughts? Or (try to) be patient and wait for the service check connector. Wish the darn thing wasnt arriving in the middle of a work week.
I'm in White Stone, just south from you. Small world!
 
"Pulled a plug and it look fine (iridium), assumed if one looked good then they all should be fine."

That's a very bad assumption. Pull all the plugs. They should all have a light milk chocolate color. If one or more are bright and shiny, that is a good indicator that you either have a water intrusion or plug not firing in that cylinder. If any are sooty black, that is a good indicator that you have a bad plug, bad coil, or possibly a bad injector. If all are sooty black, that's an indicator that you may have a bad HO2 sensor.

"It won't stay running, simply turns off after 10 or 15 min. of idling. Took it up the creek and you can feel the "catches" or hesitations, one long beep, then it dies. Starts right back up again 9/10."

If you get one long alarm, then you should also have one of your red indicator lights go out, or blink, OR your green oil pressure light goes out.

Attached is a table of alarm/panel light indicators that will help you hone in on where the problem is.
 

Attachments

  • Alarms BF 225.pdf
    25.9 KB · Views: 11
Thanks!
If I'm underway at 4000 rpms or more its a short beep and a short red flash, catch, but still run. It IS a short beep with red light. Printed this out and will compare. I'll have to get it off the jetdock and on the trailer tomorrow to pull all of the plugs and change the high pressure filter and O2 sensor.
I really appreciate your help, thank you!
 
When these engines start running crappy, the first thing you typically should do is pull and change the high-pressure fuel filter. Those things deteriorate by just sitting there.

Also, remove the top cover there the fuel line and cables enter the engine compartment through that big black grommet. It is not unusual at all for corrosion to build up in there and restrict the fuel line.
 
chawk_man said:
When these engines start running crappy, the first thing you typically should do is pull and change the high-pressure fuel filter. Those things deteriorate by just sitting there.

Also, remove the top cover there the fuel line and cables enter the engine compartment through that big black grommet. It is not unusual at all for corrosion to build up in there and restrict the fuel line.
Click to expand...
The grommets need to be replaced, they are cracked and broken. Just looking at their condition and reading your response tells me this is yet another possibility. I have new ones waiting to be installed, they'll go on tomorrow too.
 
chawk_man said:
When these engines start running crappy, the first thing you typically should do is pull and change the high-pressure fuel filter. Those things deteriorate by just sitting there.

Also, remove the top cover there the fuel line and cables enter the engine compartment through that big black grommet. It is not unusual at all for corrosion to build up in there and restrict the fuel line.
Click to expand...
Not sure if this matters, but none of the red lights are lit when turning the key before firing up the engine. It does briefly light before the engine dies with a short beep. Both fuel filters with new water collection reservoirs are installed, not starting at all.
 
When you first turn on the key switch, you should hear two beeps and all four lights on the key switch panel should come on briefly. Then the alternator light should stay on until you start the engine. The alternator light should then go off and the green oil pressure light should come on. Is that not happening? If not, then you likely have a problem in the wiring harness to the console, or an ECU problem. The wiring harness has a 7.5-amp fuse in it. Check that first. See the attached.
 

Attachments

  • Electrical Diagram Honda Digital Gauges Dual engines.pdf
    441.9 KB · Views: 5
chawk_man said:
When you first turn on the key switch, you should hear two beeps and all four lights on the key switch panel should come on briefly. Then the alternator light should stay on until you start the engine. The alternator light should then go off and the green oil pressure light should come on. Is that not happening? If not, then you likely have a problem in the wiring harness to the console, or an ECU problem. The wiring harness has a 7.5-amp fuse in it. Check that first. See the attached.
Click to expand...
BTW - if this is all getting to you, Whalen's Matina in Farnham has some top-notch Honda techs. Not cheap, but quite good at what they do. It's not far north of Kilmarnock off Virginia Route 3.

Keith Whelan
Whelan’s Marina
3993 Hales Point Road
Farnham, VA 22460-2004
(804) 394-9511
[email protected]
 
chawk_man said:
When you first turn on the key switch, you should hear two beeps and all four lights on the key switch panel should come on briefly. Then the alternator light should stay on until you start the engine. The alternator light should then go off and the green oil pressure light should come on. Is that not happening? If not, then you likely have a problem in the wiring harness to the console, or an ECU problem. The wiring harness has a 7.5-amp fuse in it. Check that first. See the attach
Click to expand...
 
Only the green is lighting up, and I don't think there's a beep. I packed it up until tomorrow. We're getting a line of thunderstorms (you too!) before too long.
Tomorrow's agenda includes internal fuel filters, O2 sensor, both grommets and fuse and wiring harness check.
Sometimes I need to step away, this stuff can drive one mad.
Thanks again (and again).
 
chawk_man said:
BTW - if this is all getting to you, Whalen's Matina in Farnham has some top-notch Honda techs. Not cheap, but quite good at what they do. It's not far north of Kilmarnock off Virginia Route 3.

Keith Whelan
Whelan’s Marina
3993 Hales Point Road
Farnham, VA 22460-2004
(804) 394-9511
[email protected]
Click to expand...
Thanks, I was just there and bought the IAC from you all. That Ray, he's a sweetheart. Thanks!
 
Yes, Ray is a great guy.

If you are not getting the beeps and lights I described in my post #14, then find that 7.5 AMP fuse and test it. That could very well be your problem. Otherwise, I suspect you may have a problem in the wiring harness from the engine.
 
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