Honda 130 water jacket gasket sealer

"The question is should I use

"The question is should I use a gasket sealer when re installing new gaskets or replace them dry? The engine is 10 yrs old. Also, should the bolts be lubricated before installing them? Thanks.
Stan

Water Jacket

"I wouldn't use any sealer

"I wouldn't use any sealer on THAT seal. If the "boss" that it sits in and the mating surfaces are cleaned thoroughly (they look clean)and the seal sits down in there well, it should work fine dry.

Oiling the threads of the bolts is usually only done when specified for a particular torque setting because it DECREASES the amount of force needed to put the fastener in "tension", as in some cylinder head applications, and shouldn't be done unless specified as you can easily overtighten and fail a fastener that way.

I would be more concerned with the manner in which you tighten that long piece down.

Typically, you would snug up all the fasteners finger tight and then, in a two or three step process, (not all at once!) tighten the bolts equally from the center out toward each end in a "criss-cross" fashion.

Tightening from the outer ends inward could create a tendency for the part to "buck up" in the center and it could leak.

One thing I've found about those "form fitting" seals is to not have them laying out in the sun before fit up as the heat will make them expand and then they don't want to lay down in the groove. Conversly, you can use this to your advantage if the seal seems to be a bit "short". You can let it heat slightly and obtain a better fit. Good luck."

ditto

ditto

"Thanks for the advice and I&#

"Thanks for the advice and I'll put it together tomorrow. The reason for taking it apart was to 1) check on the anodes in there (they look OK), and 2) to check the relief valve. It was fully salted up, so it was worth the effort, as it may have failed when needed.

I have been using Salt Away religeously after each trip in salt water and am surprised at the amount of salt caked on the relief valve especially under the rubber grommet where it touched the metal casing. The grommet was actually deformed out of round where salt built up under it. Perhaps there is a better salt removal product?
Thanks again - I'm grateful for the help."

"I work on engines used exclus

"I work on engines used exclusively in fresh water lakes and I see the same kind of mineral deposits in and on the cooling system parts. The problem we're all up against is that the heat tends to make whatever the water is carrying fall out of solution and plate out on anything that is handy. Some of what you think is salt may, in fact, be mineral deposits other than salt.

I would suggest to you that you at least remove the anodes you mentioned and stainless steel wire brush them as they are often the recipients of the "plateing out" material. They need to be electrically conductive and any type of coating on them acts as an insulator and makes them much less effective at "sacrificing" themselves to save your motor. That is why you shouldn't paint the zincs either.

Also, when removed, you should use some anti-sieze on the threads of the screws that hold them in place for easier removal next time."

Re: Honda 130 water jacket gasket sealer - continued

jgmo and hondadude,

Followed your advice as close as possible and the water jackets held up for about 18 hrs use. I checked routinely after each use. Then I noticed salt deposits after the last trip. The photo shows what gives. It is not bad yet, but no use letting it continue.

Now I need to take it apart, clean it again, and put it back together with a gasket sealer, i think. What is your advice?

Also, do you recommend getting new gaskets?

What sealer?

Thanks for your help, Stan