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200 evinrude timimng problems

S

saltlife321

Contributing Member
"Hello I have a 94 200 ocean p

"Hello I have a 94 200 ocean pro. The motor will start and run for a few seconds (about five) then shut down. I disconnected the quick start wire from the port head and the motor starts and runs for as long as I choose. But the timing is all over the place. With the wire connected I can keep the motor running with the throttle. While the motor is running with the assist of the throttle the timing is at 6 btdc with about 1000 rpms. As soon as I get back to neutral it shuts down. Lync and sync has been performed several times. Carbs have been tuned, Plugs are new and Im firing on all cylinders. Any suggestions? Please help."
 
"idle timing should be about 6

"idle timing should be about 6 but ATDC not BTDC, your idle jet might need some adjustment, i dont know why the quick start wire would make a difference, but my timing jumps too if I disconnect that wire... it seems like an idle adjustment/carb issue to me..."
 
I'm sorry. I didn't me

I'm sorry. I didn't mean to say btdc. Its atdc at 6 degrees. The motor will run as long as the quick start is engaged. That's the purpose of unplugging the wire. The motor runs good when I first start it cause its cold. Once the motor warms it will not idle long enough for me to check timing. The only way I was able to keep it running was to unplug the wire. This motor is a part of a pair. My other motor runs fine. It has all the same settings. Aside from timing.
 
"I worked on the motor all day

"I worked on the motor all day switching parts from the good motor to the problem motor. Nothing worked. I switched everything. I found that my #4 plug was oil fowled. All of my other plugs were clean. Not sure whats going on but when the motor is running it seems to jerk like its out of timing or something is not firing in the right order. I cant keep the motor running long enough to complete the tuning process. I went through alot of trouble finding the right carbs and throttle plate for this motor and everything matches brp parts site. Compression is about 105psi per cylinder. Motor runs when its cold but as soon as the quick start turns off the motor jerks a few times then shuts down. I can keep it running by advancing the throttle as I posted before. I messed with the idle screws all day with now success. In, out. nothing helped. Any thoughts?"
 
"OK. New info. I have the mo

"OK. New info. I have the motor running and stable but the way i got it to do this is by enriching the #4 carb. While all the other carbs are set at about 5 turns out the #4 carb is at about 2 1/2 turns out. The plug which was gunk ed up really bad, has started to clean up and the motor runs fine. I cleaned the carb and everything looked good. Put it back on and still had to enrich it to get it to work right. The history of these motors is unknown. I bought the boat and discovered that the motors were terribly frankensteined. I put the motors back together with the right parts per year make and model and have now begun to tune them. I have yet to run the motors in the water so I dont know if everything is right yet but i had to start somewhere. compression on #4 was 115#s"
 
"actually,...i think there is

"actually,...i think there is a brk in yrs,...less turns --more turns.....will ck tues am."
 
What do you mean brk? What do

What do you mean brk? What do you think about the one that is tuned rich? Is this a normal situation for this motor? Have you ever experienced anything like this before? Is it possible that someone put a larger set of reeds in this particular intake? The motor had the same symptoms with a set of carb that had fixed idle air jets.
 
"Ok frustrated. Wife gets hom

"Ok frustrated. Wife gets home and wants to hear the motor run. So excited to show her I go out and run it. Well the problem is back. Motor was jerking coughing and then stalled. Did this two or three times. If the compression is good and I have switched all the electrical parts from the good to the bad, WHAT THE HELL COULD MAKE THE MOTOR ACT THIS WAY?????. I believe the motor was rebuilt at one point. Could something have been done during this process to cause these problems? Could the rectifier be causing this? When I say the motor is jerking it pretty bad. Bad enough to stop it when the idle is low. Almost to the point of turning the flywheel backwards. Is it possible that it has the wrong intake/reeds in it all together? Not knowing what has happen to these motor is the cause for all the crazy questions."
 
"If this has been going on sin

"If this has been going on since re-build, my guess is that one or more pistons have been installed wrongly.
Pull the heads and check that the arrows points either to 'exhaust' or 'UP' depending on piston brand, and that stb and port pistons are in stb and port!"
 
See this is where things get t

See this is where things get tricky. I need to know if this symptom could be caused by this or is this a shot in the dark? I have a hard time believing that the pistons are in wrong. I think the motor would have either blown or just not worked right at all. With the piston in wrong how would it be able to stay running? If I do this then I might as well tear the whole motor apart cause that's what's going to happen if I don't find anything wrong. The motor ran fine for about 30 mins today. Thought I fixed the problem and started to clean up. Went back about two hours later and the problem was back.
 
"In quick-start modus the PP w

"In quick-start modus the PP will 'force' it to run at about 1200RPM, if possible. It may even 'run' at higher rpm's without quick-start,but will normally, but not always fail at lower rpm.
Have had a couple of these funny problems in my time.
If you have an ear-doctor in vicinity borrow his scope, and you may be able to check through the spark plug hole!
happy.gif
"
 
I will see what I can do about

I will see what I can do about getting something to look in the cylinder without taking the heads off. I have had the heads off before and I don't remember seeing any arrows. I actually have pics of the motor with the heads off and you can clearly see the top of the piston and I don't see any arrows.
 
"My friend and I have been tos

"My friend and I have been tossing around the idea that I have a leaking crankcase. I have gone through the motor a 100 times and everything seems to be working correctly. My question is what would be the symptoms of a leaking crankcase? Is there a way to test for this? The motor is running lean in cylinder #4. As i spoke about before the motor ran ok for about 30 the other day. But only when I enriched my #4 carb in about three turns. Would it have been possible that the enrichment worked temporarily, Then when the wife got home and I ran the motor again the gas that made it into the leak made it even worse?? This is all I have to go on as I have checked everything else that could contribute to this problem. To answer mortens question. Yes all of the pistons are in the correct positions. Finger ports line up in every cylinder."
 
That engine should run even at

That engine should run even at 4 cyl's at idle.
Have you disconnected the shift interrupt switch?
 
"That's a great question..

"That's a great question...
What are the symptoms of a leak between the crankcases between two cylinders (broken crank sealing ring, etc.), and also the symptoms if the crankcase for one individual cylinder leaks to the outside air?
How do you diagnose something like that, and what are the tests for it?
Is there any way to put a gauge on the crankcase somehow to measure pressure on the downward piston stroke?
Great question...."
 
"Saltlife321 told me offline t

"Saltlife321 told me offline that this motor has been rebuilt, because he sees a chewed up #3 crankcase where a rod has come loose.

Hey salt...what are the chances the rod on #3 came loose, broke a hole in the front crankcase half, and someone took a different front crankcase half to make the repair?

I understand it is a no-no to mix and match those two block parts, as they are a machined pair. So, if they are mixed, would that cause a non-sealed area, or would it cause engine bearing failure?"
 
If leaking between cyl's:

If leaking between cyl's: 2 cyl's will be affected.
If leaking to 'the outside': You will see oil seeping out and bubbles when running.
 
"If 'saltlife' has mis

"If 'saltlife' has missed that the port cyl's are fed by stb carbs etc (cross fed), it might explain the no4 carb having to be adjusted out of 'normal'."
 
"No he understands the crossov

"No he understands the crossover in the design.

What are the details...how do you diagnose, you used the term "affected". How are they affected?

Not by compression test numbers. Seems like there is no good debug process for leaks between cyls.

Details please."
 
"Ok, just to recap. This is a

"Ok, just to recap. This is a real problem, occurring on a real motor. I understand how a two stroke motor works. I have personally owned 20 boats in my short 28 years of life. I have never come across a problem that I couldn't fix till this one. That is the reason for the questions. I'm hoping that someone in this discussion board will have a suggestion of what the problem could be. Instead all the input I get is suggesting human error. The first problem with this motor was cause of a ding dong putting parts on the motors that did not belong. If it was not for the other motor to use as a reference I would still be trying to diagnose that problem. So please, if someone asks how to tie a shoe, please don't tell them how to play ping pong."
 
You set up a table preferable

You set up a table preferable with a green paint on it. One person stands at one end and the other at the other. Place a net approximately 4" in height between them....

Sorry Salt had to chime in on your last sentence. Please keep posting as to your progress I know there are others like me that don't know as much as you and are learning from your unfortunate experience.
 
The race boyz on S&F seem

The race boyz on S&F seem to mix up the front halves all the time. Seems the older blocks have more metal thickness for porting. The newer fronts flow better though. As long as the surfaces are true it shouldn't be a problem.

A crankcase leak will provide the symptoms you describe. A very common issue with weed wackers and leaf blowers.
 
"Thanks much, Dcramer. I appr

"Thanks much, Dcramer. I appreciate detail....
I won't hijack this thread with anymore questions on mix and match front to back block halves.
Sorry salt. Keep us posted on what you find."
 
Saltlife:
I never saw any com

Saltlife:
I never saw any comment about my question concerning the shift interrupt switch?
 
Did a test today. Ran the moto

Did a test today. Ran the motor with the #4 plug wire disconnected. The motor ran smooth didn't jerk and didn't stall. Now I'm really stumped? I checked the coil and its doing what its soposed to do. Plugged the wire back in and ran the motor again. The symptoms were back. Repeated process 4 times just to be sure. Compression is good on this cylinder. Plug has been switched along with the coil. Any suggestions as to what to do? Thanks for everyones help. P.s. Yes morten I disconnected the shift switch.
 
"Take a timing light, mark of

"Take a timing light, mark of #4 at the flywheel and check that the cyl is firing when it is supposed to fire and only then!
It might be smart to mark all the cyls at the flywheel (use a white marker pen) and check all cyl's. If you at any time may see 2 or more cyl markings at the same time, it means you have multiple firing. Normally this is related to the PP, but often even to jumps between pins in one of the amphenol contacts. Even check that no primary leads to any coil is close to any spark plug wire."
 
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