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Removing injectors

N

northern

New member
"New guy here, Do I need a inj

"New guy here, Do I need a injector puller to remove the injectors in my 2-71 and if so which one do I need.

Thank you"
 
"Nope, just remove the hold do

"Nope, just remove the hold down clamp and use the curved end of a heel bar under the outboard side of the injector, making sure not to slip and hurt the rack. If it is stuck, put pressure on the bar and tap the bar with a hammer. If it is REALLY stuck, you will need to soak the interface with the tube in a rust bust solvent such as Aero-Kroil (works like magic) or PB Blaster which is much easier to purchase at the auto parts store and works ok. Good luck."
 
"You are quite welcome sir! It

"You are quite welcome sir! It's good to know that my slaving over them hot old dogs for 25 years did somebody some good!
Thank you for saying thank you. Many do not these days, including our illustrious politicians."
 
"Jim,
I have another question

"Jim,
I have another question, The 1.484 timming tool to set up the injectors, I can't seem to find one on-line so I was thinking of trying to make one out of some stock at work. Do I need to add the locating pin to the bottom of this tool or can I take the measurement off the top of the injector housing to the top of the plunger?
Thank You"
 
"Yeah, I suppose you could do

"Yeah, I suppose you could do that. It is a foreign concept to me because I grew up using the locating pin. It and the hole it fits in is there to stabilize the gauge for an accurate reading but the measurement itself is from the surface of the base to the top of the spring pallet.

I've seen guys bend the pins to "customize" the action and even use the depth plunger on dial indicators to obtain the measurement. It's all pretty subjective to feel and every tuner's timing setting will be different so, go ahead, and do your own thing. Just keep in mind that higher is advanced and lower is retarded. Advance gives a teeny bit better throttle response on a warm engine while retarded gives easier cold starts.

It's just that the closer you can get each injector timed to be just like the others and, if they are accurately delivering metered volume (matched), you will get a smoother idleing engine with less buffer screw. As matter of fact, that's the old test for a properly tuned engine; if it doesn't "hunt" more that once or twice coming down on a "snap idle" from a throttle bump with the buffer backed all the way out, you pretty much nailed it. So, take your time when timing.;~)

I'm sure any tool truck guy like Snap-On or Mac could get you the tool. I always liked the Snap On ones better than the Kent Moore (SPX today) anyway."
 
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