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453 low oil pressure at idle

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"I have a 453 DD in a timberja

"I have a 453 DD in a timberjack forestry machine in quebec canada and i use 5w40 synthetic duron petro-canada oil for winter because sae30 or 40 are too thick at -20 celsius and the pressure is too long to raise. when motor is hot the engine pressure drop to 4 or 5psi at idle 600 rpm and about 40psi at full speed 2600rpm. what can i do to have more pressure at idle and keep a good start at low température. the engine have only 600 hours. I think the oil pump is a gerotor , can i adjust the pressure or change the oil??"
 
"Howdy from good old southern

"Howdy from good old southern California Mathieu! Home of winter sunshine, the Rose Bowl parade, Hollywood, high taxes, fleeing companies and Arnold!

Your problem stems mostly from the fact that the 4-53 is old technology. Oil pressure is a function of the restriction caused by the close tolerance of the main, rod, and cam bearings. The bearing tolerances of that engine are much sloppier than the clearances of engines that have been produced in the last several years. I don't have specifications in front of me but if memory serves, the build clearance of the 4-53 main bearings is approximately the service limit of a modern engine's bearings.

The oil pump is a positive displacement gear pump but, like all pumps, it does not create pressure, it can only produce flow. Pumps produce flow and restriction to that flow creates pressure. So, to answer your question about adjusting the pressure, the answer is no. This engine uses a pressure regulator to relieve pressure if it spikes too high (65 psi) but the bearing clearances, oil viscosity, and flow rate (dependant on pump rpm) dictate operating pressures.

Detroit Diesel recommends that multi viscosity oils not be used in their two stroke cycle engines. This would be ESPECIALLY true in warm climates due to the fact that on start up, the lowered viscosity of the oil makes it easier for the engine to pick it up and allow it to enter the combustion chamber through the cylinder liner intake ports where it becomes "uncontrolled fuel".
This burning of crankcase oil can damage rings and pistons and has the potential for a "runaway" engine.

The only recommended solution to your operating problem is to run a single viscosity 40wt CF II (API) rated oil in conjuction with a block heater and or a crankcase heater system. Of course, this may be near impossible if you are out in the woods. I do know that you can run a support vehicle with a dc to ac voltage inverter up to the unit and, through an umbilical, power the engine heater prior to start up. Costly in terms of added components and time but, when compared to the cost of an overhaul and downtime for your piece of equipment, maybe a better solution than scored bearings and shafts in your engine due to low oil pressure.

Good luck sir and have a happy new year!"
 
Thank you mister Dixon for you

Thank you mister Dixon for your information!I see on Esso website that have essolube hd 15w40 approved cf-2 and espescially formulated for 2-stroke detroit diesel 53s 71s and 92series but not for 149s and the % of sulfated ash is 1.2 . Do you think then that oil is good for my engine in the frosty temperature of quebec?province of high taxes too!)
Happy new year for you too!!
 
What is a good engine oil pres

What is a good engine oil pressure for a warm engine at idle and full speed for my 453 DD? Thank you!!
 
"Ahhhh yous don't havta to

"Ahhhh yous don't havta to call me mista!
Hi Mathieu,
Well it seems you did not like my suggestion of an oil heater, eh? But, I have to tell you, there is no magic bullet to solve your problem. Although I currently reside in the State of California, My roots and birthplace are in Texas. Back home we have a couple of sayings that we use when we encounter a situation where someone is overreaching or trying to get something unreasonable out of a given resource. Perhaps you've heard of the old saw "trying to squeeze blood out of a turnip"? But, my all time favorite is; "tryin' to cut a fat hog in the ass". Now that has a real Texican ring to it! Go Longhorns!

Yes, that hog has a fat ass! And you would think he should be ok just missin' a few slices. But, there ain't no free ham! That's my own SoCal transplant saying :~)

While it is true that Detroit Diesel has approved some multi-vis oil for use in their ON HIGHWAY 2 stroke diesel engines, including the 53 series, there are many stipulations as to the technical suitability of the oil it'self and to the conditions in which it is utilized. I'll quote from a document printed by DDC entitled:

DDC-SVC-BRO-0001 (revised 10-09)
"Must posess a high temerature/high shear viscosity of 3.7cP as measured using ASTM D 4741
1.0% ash MAX per ASTM D 2896
7.0 TBN as per ASTM 2896
700ppm Zinc per ASTM D 5185
AND, must meet MIL-PRF-2104 H (U.S. military)"

The problem is, while they tell you to "go ahead on" (another Texan idiom
) and use the oil if it meets all these standards, they say in the same document to change it out as soon as "ambient temperatures permit". Well sir, the ambient temperature surrounding a running diesel engine soon goes from sub-zero to tropical as the fuel is burned. Based on all of this "gobbledygook" (Canadian saying maybe?
) what do you do? I know what I would do, I'd install a sump heater and run single vis 40 wt! But, I see that you may be a TAD resistent to my remedy so that is something you will decide. You may read all this by going to www.ddcsn.com. I can offer nothing on the specs for the ESSO oil.

You are currently in the process of what I call "empirical testing" of what will and what won't work for your application. You wanted to know what a "good" oil pressure is for your 53. I can tell you that 5psi is not good. I'm positive that bearing to shaft contact is taking place, at idle, in your engine, each time the OP falls below 10 psi. Each time there is a firing pulse, the upper rod bearing and lower main bearing are surely making shaft contact and only failure analysis would tell how badly the cam bearings are being starved for oil. Your high of 40psi at 2600rpm...(governed no load I hope because that seems unneccessarily high to me)...I would say is acceptable but I believe 50 psi is optimum. Yes, 15-20psi @ 600rpm and 50psi @ 2150rpm is optimum.

Bottom line Mathieu? You may "empirically" prove me wrong but it is my opinion that if you don't bring that idle oil pressure up above 10psi, by whatever means, expect a shorter engine life span.

Then again, opinions are like asses...everybody's got one...including the hogs! Go Longhorns!"
 
I have been told by my Detroit

I have been told by my Detroit trained Marine mechanic that straight weight oil is to be used I have twin 453T's in my boat and he said you want to blow it up use multi weight so I'll defer to his expertise since mine is minimal. Rik
 
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