1965 20HP need some help

I believe that the motor is a

I believe that the motor is a 20hp johnson 1965 year. I believe that it is getting to much fuel now for some reason. It ran like a top the first time I took it out and the next time it was running about 50%. If I shut off the fuel it will pick up speed just as it is about to run out I will kick on the fuel and it will keep speed for a little bit and then slowly start to slow down. It has spark on both plugs and sounds like it is running smooth. Just seems like it is getting to much fuel and not sure how to fix it. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

"Sounds like the float may be

"Sounds like the float may be stuck, keeping the fuel needle valve open. Carburator is at the very least clogged and needs to be cleaned and then rebuilt. Your motor may have a fixed high speed jet, if this is the case ignore high speed setting as it is already done.

Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle va /lve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, wating for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
1."

"Thanks for the info, another

"Thanks for the info, another question, when I take off the pull start is it all in one unit or after I unbolt it are springs and other things going to try and fly out on me?"

all one unit

all one unit

There's three screws that

There's three screws that hold the pull starter into place. Remove those three screws to reveal the flywheel. The spring is incased inside that assembly.

"I am about to get into the ca

"I am about to get into the carb and see what is up and get it cleaned up. Not sure because its an older motor, and I havent seen one yet but is there a fuel filter on this type of motor? If not would putting an inline filter on it help with not gumming up the carb as bad? I dont know if it being pre-mix would matter with the inline or not."

"Those carburetors of that era

"Those carburetors of that era are pretty simple. Use a small diameter wire to clean out all the small passages. If need be, use stranded wire to get the right diameter to clean well. A puff of air wont hurt, maybe a soak in carb cleaner over night.


No, there is no fuel filter in the carburetor, you may put an inline fuel filter/water seperator if you wish to, looks like an auto oil filter that bolts to the transom area."

Good deal that is what I will

Good deal that is what I will do. I got the pull start off and the nut that holds down on the fly wheel but cant figure out how to get the fly wheel off?

"it will take a flywheel pulle

"it will take a flywheel puller,or harmonic bal puller etc,..a 3 prong puller,..ck at auto parts,u may be able to borrow one."

so does it take some kind of p

so does it take some kind of press to get the flywheel back on?

Carefully align keyways (f

Carefully align keyways (flywheel/crankshaft) tighten flywheel nut to 45 foot pounds of torque.

"well it looks like I am going

"well it looks like I am going to be taking it down the road to someone. Due to only being able to mess with it an hour at a time and not having all the needed tools. I am going to hang on to all the advise so that when I get some time, I will eventually be able to do it myself. Wish one of you guys lived near Fort Polk, LA I would see about hooking up to help out so I can learn more about it. Army keeps me busy for now thank you guys so much for all the help and information. I will keep it all for later use. Thanks again."

"OK, I got the carb issue fixe

"OK, I got the carb issue fixed myself with a lil help from some buddies. Now the lower unit. How do I go about changing out the oil for it???"

"[i]" Now the lower unit.

"" Now the lower unit. How do I go about changing out the oil for it???"

Hopefully youll find two broad flat headed screws on the LU one below the bulge that houses all the mecahnical gubbins and one a good bit above. Remove those and allow the unit to drain fully. It'll help if its warm, not out in cold temperatures.

DO NOT remove any other smaller screws as one may well be the pivot pin for part of the shifter mechanism.

If the oil drains clear and bright all is well but if it is milky it indicates water ingress and the reasons (seals) should be investigated and rectified.

You refill (High viscosity outboard gear oil assuming it does not have electric shift) using a squeezable bottle or a pump via the bottom hole until oil flows from the top one.

New washers should be used on the drain and level screws. Some have O rings, in which case there is recesses in the underside of the screw heads for them. Be sure to use the nylon washers or O rings which ever is correct."

How does the oil not drain if

How does the oil not drain if you are filling it from the bottom? Is it one of those once it it full then hurry up and get the screws back in it? Thanks for the help!

"Yeah, it sounds alittle weird

"Yeah, it sounds alittle weird, you'd think that the oil would gush out, but if done correctly you wont lose but a drop of oil at most. It's a timing/vacuum thing. Loosen both screws at first, make sure they work smoothly. Drain the oil, once empty, refill through bottom hole till oil comes out the top hole. Once full keep the oil bottle in place without moving it, replace top plug screw. When the top plug is in place with one motion remove oil bottle and replace bottom screw. Even when doing this the first time you should only lose a minimum of oil, which is normal. The more you do it the less you lose. Piece of cake."

"I am having trouble with the

"I am having trouble with the prop on my boat, I have broken the pin that holds on the prop. I was told by a ton of people that I can use a lot of different stuff to fix it. So I found the right size dia. and replaced it. It still sounds like the pin is broken but it isnt, the prop seems as though it is missing the pin but when the motor is off and in drive the prop is catching the pin. Any clue as to what could be going on."

ANYONE GOT A CLUE FOR THE ABOV

ANYONE GOT A CLUE FOR THE ABOVE

"u have spun,the hub and need

"u have spun,the hub and need a new prop,or that one fixed,is my guess."